Dually conversion questions.
The predominate reason one purchases a Dually is pay load and torque.
The Taller Gear Set will allow the platform to perform.
Will you pay more in the long run with maintenance and fuel expenses? Yes.
Will you have problem pulling up to 15k lbs. up a 6% grade? No
Do your Tunes need augmenting? Yes.
Box? I assume you're referring to a Bed? Yes it will fit with some minor modifications and all the lines meet with the cab nicely.
3.73's are a good compromise between off the line acceleration/pulling power and highway economy/general daily usability. 3.55's are more economy/cruising oriented. Think rarely loaded highway commuter. On the other hand 4.10's are good for getting heavy loads moving, with less stress on the driveline. They will, however, result in loss of fuel economy, particularly at higher highway speeds. Keep in mind, that dually rear (Dana 80?) is bigger, heavier, and has more parasitic horsepower loss then your outgoing single (10.5 sterling), plus the added weight of 2 more tires. All else being equal (ie sticking with the 3.73's) you will have less pulling power.
So, given that you pull heavy loads, and have already expressed a willingness to cower and obey before a mere piece of metal with silly numbers painted on it, even at the expense of possible tranny damage (hunting in/out of OD is not good for it.), then running the 4.10 gears in the dually rear may be your best option.
Keep in mind, you will need to get your ABS computer reprogrammed for the new gear ratio, lest your speedo be off and you run afoul of the highway overlords. You may also need some tuning updates, to account for the changes in the "operating envelope" (Where and how you'll want the power delivered), as well as changes in the tranny shift schedule.
As I said, I imagine your tuner should be able to stop the trans from hunting, by either raising the 3-4 shift point, to keep it in 3rd; or lowering it, to allow the trans to shift into 4th/OD a little sooner and stay there, depending on what you want.
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3.73's are a good compromise between off the line acceleration/pulling power and highway economy/general daily usability. 3.55's are more economy/cruising oriented. Think rarely loaded highway commuter. On the other hand 4.10's are good for getting heavy loads moving, with less stress on the driveline. They will, however, result in loss of fuel economy, particularly at higher highway speeds. Keep in mind, that dually rear (Dana 80?) is bigger, heavier, and has more parasitic horsepower loss then your outgoing single (10.5 sterling), plus the added weight of 2 more tires. All else being equal (ie sticking with the 3.73's) you will have less pulling power.
So, given that you pull heavy loads, and have already expressed a willingness to cower and obey before a mere piece of metal with silly numbers painted on it, even at the expense of possible tranny damage (hunting in/out of OD is not good for it.), then running the 4.10 gears in the dually rear may be your best option.
Keep in mind, you will need to get your ABS computer reprogrammed for the new gear ratio, lest your speedo be off and you run afoul of the highway overlords. You may also need some tuning updates, to account for the changes in the "operating envelope" (Where and how you'll want the power delivered), as well as changes in the tranny shift schedule.
Your tuner should be able to customize the shift schedule to accommodate desired characteristics. Shifting primarily off engine RPM is an antiquated and crude trans strategy. Modern electronically controlled transmissions use many more inputs and variables to determine shift points. Road speed is the "primary" one, with things like throttle position, engine load, rpm, engine and trans temps, etc... all influencing the final "decision" by the pcm.
As I said, I imagine your tuner should be able to stop the trans from hunting, by either raising the 3-4 shift point, to keep it in 3rd; or lowering it, to allow the trans to shift into 4th/OD a little sooner and stay there, depending on what you want.




