Advertised Duration 268 int./268 exh.
Advertised Exhaust Duration 268
Advertised Intake Duration 268
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,500-5,500
Brand COMP Cams
Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Computer-Controlled Compatible No
Duration at 050 inch Lift 218 int./218 exh.
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 218
Exhaust Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.456 in.
Grind Number FW 268H-10
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 218
Intake Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.456 in.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 110
Part Type Camshafts
Product Line COMP Cams High Energy Camshafts
Quantity Sold individually.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.456 int./0.456 exh. lift

Comp Cams 35-218-3 specs above (for the 351 Windsor).

A couple questions, while if any cam is listed as "hydraulic" will they work fine w stock roller lifters ? Many manufacturers list normally only solid or hydraulic lifters ....

Would the above work OK with Speed Density setup ? At some point may switch to MAF, not sure about the timing of this event ...

 

I just noticed it indicated Computer Controlled = NO so this is for the pre 92 or so vehicles ?

 

You need an EFI friendly(114 deg LSA) hydraulic roller cam with no more than about 210 deg intake duration at 0.050" lift such as the Comp 35-512-8.

 

Paul:

Thks for quick response. A couple questions. Trying to plan different options for my upgrades:

Currently have stock 302 with stock exhaust, looking into upgrading this soon, got 1 price for a shop to complete, looked into buying the parts and fabricating myself, considering stainless vs aluminized, do not want a real loud system, probably something in the middle, I plan to still do a fair amt of highway driving and don't need deafening drone .... I also still have Speed Density.

I also plan to do a 351 slight build for longer term.

Wonder if easier to simply get 1.7 roller rockers and put on 302 until I am ready to complete 351 then put on that stock cam, instead of getting cam, or get one cam that will work on each ? For instance I believe the stock 302 in the 96 explorers are better than stock in 92 (302) and 94 (351 block) ? I'll have to check the stock heads and gt40p for size of studs, if not machined for screw in studs, will that be necessary if going with 1.7, or does it depend on spring pressures ?

Do you have specs on the stock truck 92 5.0 vs 96 5.0 engines ?

I do have a set of gt 40p heads, not gone thru yet but prefer to wait and simply put them on 351 build, will consider putting them on 302 temporarily, I am aware of the need to enlarge for the 351 bolts ...

I did order the top half of performance products intake for the 351, at some point before build need to get bottom half (54126) I believe I need.

I think in a previous post you indicated the order should be exhaust, cam then intake upgrades ... is this correct ?

 

All '94+ motors(both 5.0 and 5.8) have the Explorer(F4TE) cam and yes it's bigger than the earlier flat tappet and roller cams that were used. The '92 cam is small with just 0.378/395" lift and only 244/256 duration seat to seat, the '94 cam is 0.422/0.448" lift and 256/266 duration seat to seat. These cams also have a wide LSA at 115 to 116 and 0.050" duration is under 200.. well under for the early cam.

On the 5.0 there is no need at all to change the intake, on the 5.8 it is but do it after the cam and exhaust and the same time you do the heads.

 

Paul:

Ok, thanks for that info. So, to summarize I may do the first upgrade to the 5.0 with exhaust and the "after 94 cam" - will this work OK with speed density now on the truck ?

2nd part of build do the 351 using the GT 40 p heads and this same cam, something to think about, or something a little hotter ? Talking to one supplier today I am really limited in cam selection if I don't have MAF, so I may do the actual engine swap and MAF conversion at same time to allow for a bigger cam. However I do want to maintain decent highway mileage ... So for this build "IF" I used the GT 40s that stock cam above will speed density likely be OK ? Plan is to use the Typhoon intake as well on this motor.


Another issue had today off and stopped at a local speed shop who actually does the tuning when it comes time to swap in the mustang computer, MAF system, he indicated that they dyno tune it and install a chip which maximizes all the components I have selected, price ballpark around 600, does that sound about right ? He indicated likely 2 dyno runs, could be more if he is did not get it right after 1st run. If so, this is only $ 50 less than I paid for the whole truck years ago .... It also points out the need to get all the components matched correctly before going in for that tune ....

Any further suggestions, other than working some Overtime ?

 

Yep no problem.

Yep will run fine.


Not a fan of this type of dyno tune unfortunately, I'd suggest you get a Tweecer or Quarterhorse and learn to do it yourself. The matched components thing is true, you want the correct sized injectors and MAF for your motor.. not too big or too small, but a mild build like you're doing shouldn't really need a tune unless you go too radical with the cam and then a tune won't really do much. For example if you were to use a cam like the one in your first post then you can kiss goodby to a smooth idle at 650 rpm, no amount of tuning will bring that back.. not that a dyno shop would spend much time on the idle anyway, most of their usual customers don't care if the motor has to idle at 1500rpm to stay running.

 

Just a couple followup questions:

For the stock heads and the GT 40 P, at what lift do I have to worry about changing out the stock springs ? I suppose if I am doing the rebuild may want to do that anyways, but for just the "after 94 cam" in the stock heads no problem with stock springs with 193 K on the motor ?

The other question relates to the computer, I will do some research on this item "Tweecer or Quarterhorse and learn to do it yourself" and get back to you if or when questions on that. Back to the computer, I believe in the past it was suggested to find an A9L or something similar which was from a stick car, as I have a 5 speed in the truck. They may be harder to find, but how about a truck with MAF already which has the 5.8 and a 5 speed stock ? Was there a reason I may want to go with mustang vs truck computer (assuming I could find later) ? I did pull an airbox and MAF from a 95 or 96 and I would need to get some wiring, so that already on hand.

Thanks again for helping me along .....

 

You need to start worrying about valve lift at around 0.500".

There were no MAF trucks with manual transmissions so you won't find a PCM for that, and all the auto trucks used computer controlled autos.

 

Ok, thks again Paul. Close to time to start working on my little S10 (engine problem fix) so that I can drive it while I work on the F150, have a clearer picture now on the path .... now debating on getting a tig welder and a dual gauge in case I become the fabricator .....

 

Explorer take off heads, gt40's or p's should have the springs changed no matter what........they are junk...........these springs work great, i have used them a few times and have a set on the way now for my van...........

SB Ford GT40P Drop In Valve Springs Kit, Hyd Roller .580" Lift - Alex's Parts Sales


Paul is right on about the dyno tune also.............

What are you trying to do with the truck? Race, cruise, tow?

 

Thanks for the tip on the springs. Question on what I will be doing with the truck, not racing, but I want it to go a fair amount better when I push on that right pedal .... I have a cap on the back and have a getaway about 225 miles away, need respectable mileage and tow vehicles, trailers and other stuff on occasion. Gotta factor that in for the 351 build ... if I want to go fast, I have a couple 2 wheelers for that and other cars ... On the exhaust I don't want something excessively loud but certainly one that flows good probably mid range in sound ....

 

I know this ain't a Ford Truck question, but you peeps got the SBF answers ...

My buddy recently picked up a super clean low mileage 94 mustang with a 302 real real cheap because it had front end damage, he's a body man/painter professionally.

What block is that most likely to be?

I've only seen pictures of it cause he ripped the T5 out doing donuts out front of his work after putting an nice paint job on it ... Freaking idjit!

Thanks!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

That is the 302/5.0 windsor block same as what was found in these trucks.

 

Newer Ford trucks, ie Not the Roller (F4TE) block you all are talking about?
Sorry, If I'm stupid, I'm not a Ford Gasser man!

Thanks

EDIT: In red!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~