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The last things I was hearing about the front covers were that they are expensive and hard to find. Assessing the damage to the threads and making a solid repair is a skill and this part isn't a good one to learn on (if you've never done one before). I'd recommend talking to someone locally who does that kind of work or at least get up the tools, watch a few video's and make a couple "test repairs" on some scrap aluminum parts before doing the actual repair. It's one of those jobs that looks like it would be quick and easy to do but there are many ways to mess it up.
If it's just a thread repair install a thread insert. I wouldn't replace the whole front cover over 1 thread issue. The 5.4s we use inserts to hold in a stripped spark plug, I think holding the thermostat housing would not be beyond the limits of the insert.
If it's just a thread repair install a thread insert. I wouldn't replace the whole front cover over 1 thread issue. The 5.4s we use inserts to hold in a stripped spark plug, I think holding the thermostat housing would not be beyond the limits of the insert.
You know that even if it is beyond I would check with a welder that is
very good with TIG and you may save save some money. But your going to
have to pull the cover to get it right and that takes a new main seal.
I don't recall if it does or not, but if the bolt goes all the way through why couldn't you just drill it and tap it out with the next size up bolt and drill the through hole it the t-stat housing? if you don't want an odd ball bolt size there do both sides. It would be a cold day in before I 'd change the front cover because of this issue. jmho
I just pointed out the cover was expensive, it is certainly a easily repairable issue unless you pull the thermostat housing and find a crack or something which is unlikely. Here's some more general info that may help a little.
There are taps designed for chasing threads. When you get the bolt out, look closely at the threads of the bolt. If it hasn't galled and picked up bits of aluminum, one of these taps could be an option.
If the bolt breaks when you're pulling it out, the repair get a little more complicated. Proper center punching, correct angle on the drill, and stepping up drill sizes is important. It unlikely a reverse drill bit or easy-out will help in that case.
A helicoil or other style thread insert requires drilling and will remove most or all of the damaged threads, and you'll end up with the proper size bolt after the repair. It is a metric thread size.
If it's a blind hole or not the repair is the same, you'll just need to drill to the proper depth if it is. Bottoming drills and taps are available that will clean the threads up all the way to the bottom of the hole if you decide to clean up the existing threads.
You mention not being familiar with the 6.0 engine so I'll add that after the air intake assembly and top radiator hose are out of the way there should be plenty of room to work. Don't be tempted to undo the snaps and just remove the filter part, it's a headache to work with. Undo the intake clamp on the big tube at the turbo inlet, unplug the MAF sensor and pull its harness clip off the stud on the intake tube and disconnect the filter minder harness or pull the filter minder out of the intake housing. Lift it up from the back first (it's a tight fit clearing the master cylinder resivoir) and with a little twisting the front part of the tube will come out of the radiator support and the whole, giant thing will come out in one piece.
Rusty Thank you.
Friend called Ford and said bolt was M8x 1.5 thread pattern.
All I find at O'Reilly is m8x.125.
Will this insert size work?
Gonna check with Fastenal tomorrow.
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