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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Steering NOT centered...

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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 12:26 PM
  #16  
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F-1's didn't have stop bolts. I think the F-4/5/6+ did
 
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 08:03 PM
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These trucks from the factory turned more to the right than the left. It says right in the factory brochure:



Also if it hits the nut on the spring eye bolt, they are installed backwards. The nuts should be on the inside of the frame.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 06:37 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 51dueller
These trucks from the factory turned more to the right than the left. It says right in the factory brochure:

Also if it hits the nut on the spring eye bolt, they are installed backwards. The nuts should be on the inside of the frame.

Ok- You know I thought I had read that somewhere before...Thank you!
That explains the difference I see.


Only when on the lift does the tie rod hit- it hits the U bolt threaded end at the rear of the U bolt.
I'll verify it only hits with the suspension hanging on the lift, but I think the U bolts are installed properly with the open end down.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 12:11 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
F-1's didn't have stop bolts. I think the F-4/5/6+ did
The stops are long nuts located on the end of the kingpin locking bolt.

Also the drag link is adjustable:


From Ford Shop Manual


From Ford Shop Manual
 
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 02:50 PM
  #20  
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yes, the ball seat tension is adjustable, but not the length.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 05:14 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by AXracer
yes, the ball seat tension is adjustable, but not the length.
If both opposing springs are of equal strength that is true, if not the ball will move toward the weaker spring will it not?
 
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 05:46 PM
  #22  
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Possibly if significantly different, but in practical use, no if adjusted according to the manual: "screw in the adjuster nut until tight" (spring totally collapsed to coil bind), "then backed off just until slot lines up with cotter pin holes in the housing, insert cotter pin."
The furthest you could back it off before the pin could be inserted is 1/2 turn, so it is nearly collapsed, not much room for movement. The springs are there only to give a small amount of road shock absorption.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2015 | 06:48 AM
  #23  
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[QUOTE=petemcl;15732246]The stops are long nuts located on the end of the kingpin locking bolt.

Also the drag link is adjustable:[QUOTE]

Well, I am going to look again, but I don't recall seeing any stops at the kingpins...

When I checked the front end there is no play in any of the components.

Any picture of the kingpin area for reference?

I have been driving it- seems fine, as previously noted it might be within spec.s...

Hurt my back yesterday stacking cord wood- it sucks to get old...

Looks like I might have to take a day off.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2015 | 10:13 AM
  #24  
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This is the bolt/nut Pete was referring to; I don't see what it could bottom against, but I haven't gotten under to see. It's the locking bolt for the kingpin.


 
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