Welding diffs
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: citrus heights California
Don't care about your opinions. Just a simple answer will do. If I pull the carrier to weld it up, so i need to set my backlash again? Or can I just dump it back in there
Sterling And Dodge Dana 60 front
Sterling And Dodge Dana 60 front
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Senior User
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From: citrus heights California
excellent, I planned on just marking them, pulling and then welding
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Do they use crush sleeves? "might" be a good idea to replace that item since its driven on the street. I have welded up quite a few diffs but they were toyota axles, clearances go out the window on the carrier with those due to design. The only other issue I had was a slightly warped carrier from using too much heat. It is on a trail rig though so i don't really care haha. Just something to look out for. Weld the hell out of it, that cast cracks easier than you might think.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: citrus heights California
Do they use crush sleeves? "might" be a good idea to replace that item since its driven on the street. I have welded up quite a few diffs but they were toyota axles, clearances go out the window on the carrier with those due to design. The only other issue I had was a slightly warped carrier from using too much heat. It is on a trail rig though so i don't really care haha. Just something to look out for. Weld the hell out of it, that cast cracks easier than you might think.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: citrus heights California
Well with the CAD Axle I'll be able to unlock and lock in cab
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Cargo Master
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From: Iowa
I know you don't want opinions but..... Steering while in 4x4 is really going to suck on anything less then ice with the front differential locked up, assuming you still have U-joints in your steering knuckles. CV joints like some of the jeeps have would possibly work with that set up but U-joints won't be fun....
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Fleet Mechanic
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as ive never taken one of these apart, im sure theres some type of shim from left to right.
ive done these in my gassers with the center section in place
pull the pin,
douche with brake clean, and use a 220 MIG,
never had an issue with dingle berries getting into the ring and pinion.
some may find its way, but easily drop out when you rotate it by hand.
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITH A 110 WELDER.
ive done these in my gassers with the center section in place
pull the pin,
douche with brake clean, and use a 220 MIG,
never had an issue with dingle berries getting into the ring and pinion.
some may find its way, but easily drop out when you rotate it by hand.
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITH A 110 WELDER.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: citrus heights California
as ive never taken one of these apart, im sure theres some type of shim from left to right.
ive done these in my gassers with the center section in place
pull the pin,
douche with brake clean, and use a 220 MIG,
never had an issue with dingle berries getting into the ring and pinion.
some may find its way, but easily drop out when you rotate it by hand.
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITH A 110 WELDER.
ive done these in my gassers with the center section in place
pull the pin,
douche with brake clean, and use a 220 MIG,
never had an issue with dingle berries getting into the ring and pinion.
some may find its way, but easily drop out when you rotate it by hand.
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITH A 110 WELDER.
Thanks for your input guys!
the welded is mostly just to have it. When wheeling up in the mountains or when I head back to the farm and I'm in the pasture. And insurance policy of you will.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
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its also great to start a kid out on!
that way when they burn up the torch, youre not really worried lol
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Over There
I welded up a model 20 without taking it apart using a 110 MIG, no biggie. I drove it for years like that until I replaced it with a 14B.
I just cleaned up the spiders with brake clean and covered everything I didn't want to get splatter on with wet towels. Then ran a bead between each spider gear, easy, and worked great. Really doesn't take much weld, just need enough to keep the spiders from turning.
EDIT..
FWIW that rig was a J10 and really sketchy to drive. I only welded it cause the PO burnt up the spiders doing one wheel burnouts or something.
As far as taking it out and putting it back in, only issue is the shims. The D60 is easy the shims are between the bearing and carrier, plop it out, plop it in, shouldn't be a problem. The 10.25 the shims are between the bearing race and the housing. A bit more of a pain in the **** but doable, just have to be careful taking it out to not damage the shims and to put each one back right where it was.
I just cleaned up the spiders with brake clean and covered everything I didn't want to get splatter on with wet towels. Then ran a bead between each spider gear, easy, and worked great. Really doesn't take much weld, just need enough to keep the spiders from turning.
EDIT..
FWIW that rig was a J10 and really sketchy to drive. I only welded it cause the PO burnt up the spiders doing one wheel burnouts or something.
As far as taking it out and putting it back in, only issue is the shims. The D60 is easy the shims are between the bearing and carrier, plop it out, plop it in, shouldn't be a problem. The 10.25 the shims are between the bearing race and the housing. A bit more of a pain in the **** but doable, just have to be careful taking it out to not damage the shims and to put each one back right where it was.
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