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Just curious....
If you didn't expect any change, why bother? This is about a 6 hour procedure, remove the water pump and all?
If your going to change the cooler, the back flush is a waste of time IMO. I think you would be further ahead to chemically flush everything, then change the cooler. Spend all the time back flushing and still have to change the cooler, that 6 hours of work gets you a very good portion of the oil cooler change completed.
You are correct - It was a lot of time, especially with all the flushes (3 I think) , reverse flush and the chemical flush.
I had just bought it and I didn't know if the coolant had ever been changed before. With 57K miles I assumed not. I was having a temp Delta of 15-18 degrees so an oil cooler was on my short term list as well as head studs & EGR delete.
So I flushed the old coolant, reverse flushed the oil cooler, heater core and radiator as well as a chemical flush, then installed a coolant filter and changed over to the Rotella ELC coolant. Ran it for @ 1K Mike's then she went in for head studs, oil cooler & the EGR delete while it was torn open. I probably went overkill on the flushing but after opening the first used coolant filter I was very happy to see the results. Now I can sleep (and haul the camper) knowing I did all I could.
I'd say you did as well. Normally a coolant flush with chemicals, drive with the chemicals in the system for a short period and then flush. Add coolant filter and EC1 rated coolant when you do the oil cooler right after the flush.... zero anything in the system.
My math says you are running at least a 20 degree differential.
In town ran 190/198...ordering a cooler, stand pipes, dummy plugs and stc fitting. Also clean the turbo and check the bellow on the pipes. Best prices I've seen is from Ed at ficm repair so that's who I'm going with.
I'd say you did as well. Normally a coolant flush with chemicals, drive with the chemicals in the system for a short period and then flush. Add coolant filter and EC1 rated coolant when you do the oil cooler right after the flush.... zero anything in the system.
Is it done now? What's your deltas?
Kinda followed the course outlined in the Tech Folder:
1. coolant flush 'N' Fill with distilled water then ran it for an hour
2. 30 min oil cooler reverse flush with an RV water filter
3. 30 min reverse flushes of the heater core, radiator & cleaning of the degas bottle
4. Fleetguard Restore chemical flush & ran it for a couple of hours
5. 3 more distilled water flushed (those Fumoto drain valves really paid off)
6. Dieselsite Coolant Filter & Rotella ELC Coolant
Edit: This whole process took me a few days.
Ran this for @ 800 miles and in she went for head studs, oil cooler & EGR Delete.
Overkill - probably - but I'm ok with that
The first coolant filter looked pretty good. Temperature Delta stayed around 15-18 degrees after all the flushing & coolant filter install. After the new oil cooler the Delta has been 3-5 degrees while running 65 mph on the flats and the wrench light no longer comes on after climbing small to moderate grades.
FWIW - here is a link to the thread I did with some pics of the coolant filter opened up and the supplies I used. I want to add that I knew nothing about this engine 6 weeks ago, the great folks on this site and some friends helped me learn (through a firehose - in a short time) what to look for and even more important - what needed to be done.
If you were to do it again or change the tech folder... would you say reverse flushing was a waste of time?
Wow, I'm not sure at all. I don't believe I know enough about this motor or have enough experience yet to be qualified to say it would or wouldn't. I just wanted the cooling system to be clean before installing the new oil cooler. But in my first experience the reverse flush did not reduce my temperature Delta, it could have helped clean the overall system out - but I don't have the proof that it did any better than a regular flush and fill.
Been a month and a half since I replaced the cooler, stc fitting, stand pipes and dummy plugs. ECT still at 190/191 and my OET now at 194/196 on the highway, much better now. HPOP cover was really hard to get up off the block and pump but finally got it off and then dropped one of the STC fitting bolts...ugh. Quick trip to home depot to buy the Milwaukee borescope. Found the bolt behind the cam gear and got it out with the magnet attachment - BEST $200 I EVER SPENT! Thanks to everyone for the info on this site.
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in a short time) what to look for and even more important - what needed to be done.
