Wow! A crisis! Hope your Keurig is now clean. That's a serious issue in our house.

But, even more serious is taking the dash apart. Yuk! That's lots of work. But, as Jim says, progress is good and you are making progress.

 

Ok, been a couple of days, a lot of wiring work and also having to replace the tip on the Weller gun, fortunately ACE carries them. First a couple of pictures of the key pad wiring run, it goes around behind the glass run, but has to be high enough to clear the door handle. Interesting note, the plug on the end will not pass through the slot in the door where the pad mounts, you have to take the pad off, turn it and slide it in through the slot. First picture is the back of the door where I drilled a 17/64" hole so I could use a plastic clip to keep the wires in place. Second picture is looking back at the installed key pad wires.








Next is after I finally finished the wiring, including the new connector for the cross cab lock and window harness with the door harness reinstalled. One of the interior area, wires have to be put back in their recess. The last is showing something visible in the other two, While I had everything out, I ran a power seat harness so I can see about moving the switch to the door on both sides.











Now I get to put the interior back together.

 

Looks good. And neat. But, do you have to put everything back together in order to test it?

 

Already passed the smoke test. Everything works like it should as far as I can tell.

I have seven wires that went to places on the Lincoln, two of them are on the driver's door unlock and lock all circuits and went to the lighting control module, I assume they probably activated the light flash and horn chirp. One went to the air suspension, one to the start circuit, one is the panic alarm also the LCM. The other two are driver seat occupied and a diagnostic lead to the OBD-II system.

I haven't been able to determine whether any of these are crucial or not, so I ran enough wire out to an 8 pin plug so if I find I need them I can connect them. I may hook the first two across the field coil on a Bosch relay so I can flash the parking lights. The panic alarm will have to have it's output checked once I have key fobs programmed to it. If it goes hot or to ground and stays until cancelled, I can use a turn signal flasher and two relays to pulse the horn and lights. Seat occupied, since I have the 2000 Lincoln Continental seats, the switch is there. It may just control the fasten seat belt light.

Were you able to see all the pictures, our wondrous Verizon Damn SLow internet will show me 2 or 3 and it varies which ones.

 

I was able to see all but the last pic this time. Earlier I think the first one was missing.

Are you going to disable the starter with this system? I would. And, I would flash the lights and honk the horn.

 

Gary, I think it is more a case of telling the module you are starting the engine. As for doing both the lights and horn, I can do that, the Chrysler van flashes the left side lights on first unlock signal (it unlocks both left doors), then does a double flash of both sides on the second signal. When you lock it with the remote, it blinks and toots.

The Taurus does not flash the lights nor toot the horn (maybe in the preferences set into it by the PO).

If I set it up for that, I may, since I will have to use relays, use the horn only for lock, the problem is that using the lock/unlock wires, it will do it even with the switches from inside. Maybe I could use the seat occupied switch to disable the circuit. BTW, all the 1992-1996/7 F-series use a horn relay, not just with cruise control, it is in the underhood power box.

 

Having the horn honk when you are inside would be … embarrassing. So, using the seat switch to disable that would be good. If the seat switch's output is high when no one is in it you could use it as the source for the relay's coil power. But, I'd bet it won't supply enough power to even pull in the relay.

It is interesting that Ford finally standardized on having a relay for the horn. That has to have simplified the wiring.

 

Gary, the seat switch is a grounding switch, it closes when the seat is occupied. I would probably have to use a couple of diodes, one in each of the two circuits so the can't crossfeed.

 

After I typed that it dawned on me it would be a ground. Much easier to provide a sink than a source. But, using two diodes and making that the ground for the horn alarm relay, as opposed to the horn relay under the hood, would work.

 

Ok, it's finally done and everything is back together. The key pad lights up once you press any button, the one touch down works very nicely and from inside there is no sign it was installed.

 

Well done, Bill! I'd rep you, but you know the story.

So, do you have the alarm aspect working?

 

Not yet, until I can get key fobs so I can activate the panic alarm and see what it's output is, constant 12V, constant to ground or pulsing, I won't know what I can with it. It does not have a security system as far as I can tell, if it did I would need to find a way to duplicate the signals it would look for.

 

Makes sense. Still, good progress. How's the engine?

 

Awaiting a generous benefactor to dump some money my way.

 

So, I might win the race???