347 stroker build
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From: Sonoita Hills, AZ
347 stroker build
Getting ready for a stoker build, I'm building a 4x4 that I will use. I've bought aluminum heads, 64cc, 2.02/1.60 SS vales 3 angle grind, 347 stroker kit with Scat crank and rods, Wiseco dish pistons(9.6 to 1), 28 oz. damper and flywheel.
Looking for suggestions for valve train parts, cam, lifters, rocker arms ect.
Need to have a good smooth idle for 4x4ing.
Looking for suggestions for valve train parts, cam, lifters, rocker arms ect.
Need to have a good smooth idle for 4x4ing.
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To OP If you can go roller, a good combo for good friendly low end for wheeling would be fords stock roller cam and a set of 1.7 rocker arms to boot.
Fleet Owner
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From: Kentucky
Please type in clear, concise English.
Sorry to take this thread off topic but I have a hard understanding the meaning behind most of this member's responses.
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You are not alone. I swear this guy is drunk off his butt when he posts.
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Back in the day I was going to put a 347 in my truck I was told you had to get different connecting rods otherwise it would burn oil pretty bad
He had a drag car (10.9 1/4 mile as I recall) with a 347 his burned oil said it was because the connecting rods he had
He had a drag car (10.9 1/4 mile as I recall) with a 347 his burned oil said it was because the connecting rods he had
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I have heard some wild statments in the few short years in my life but never in my life have i heard that one before, don't know who you talked to but he fed you a line of BULL**** and you fell for it. I can see a bad ring doing it but a rod is a rod.
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I seem to be getting that a lot recently I'm considering starting a sewage company
I googled it real quick supposedly it's caused by the oil ring going over the piston pin supposedly it's a lie too
I googled it real quick supposedly it's caused by the oil ring going over the piston pin supposedly it's a lie too
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Fleet Owner
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From: Kentucky
Now you are making some sense. Early 347 strokers were susceptible to oil control issues due to ring positioning. That has been resolved with top notch builders like SCAT.
Fleet Owner
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From: Kentucky
There is some validity to that claim. But that has been resolved with good engineering practices.
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Thank you for the validation
To the op sorry about the above if it does burn oil I want to know but to answer your question edelbrock sells idle to 5500 rpm camshafts they say are for 4x4 I would imagine you would want one like that in a roller style setup
To the op sorry about the above if it does burn oil I want to know but to answer your question edelbrock sells idle to 5500 rpm camshafts they say are for 4x4 I would imagine you would want one like that in a roller style setup
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I had never heard of it before that's why I felt it was kinda fishy, I see now he was right but that was back in the day when people were still figuring these things out. Good to know it is no longer an issue in our land of fords today.
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I had made one earlier for wheeling around at low rpm's and that is a stock roller cam from a later year F-150 (95,96 Example) with all the corresponding roller parts and 1.7 roller rockers. I'd go with stock style springs since you won't be winging it to 6 grade on purpose. And as for push-rods just stock replacements will do the trick. From what I am told they make great low end cam for towing and crawling around while still making good power in rpm ranges more suited for a truck and not a mustang.