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Sat i got down and dirty and changed all the u-joints and every seal in the front end. It was such a pain to drop the carrier to get the inside joint out. There was alot of wrench trowing tring to bench that thing back in. Also while i was under there i repacked all the bearrings, put on new brake pads and cut the rotors. Its a shame i had to change the pads. they were 2 years old and still had 3/4 left on them. But the rotor was scorred and cheded them up. Next is all new sterring parts shocks and and alignment.
Next pay. Buy the time i put the lift kit on i want everything good as new.
I need to do the same in my 93, which I bieleve is a dana 50.
The front end looks like a pain. No easy way to replace the seal without tearing it all apart.
May be easier, although not cheaper, to swap out a dana 60 straight axel.
Yep it is. Its got a big 50 cast into the bottom of the block. If i get home early enough i will wash it and get some pics. Your right it was a pain. Thats why i changed every seal while it was apart. I have checked into it and it would cost about 1200 bucks to swap in the 60.
So how hard is this job? I have to do the same thing to my 1988 F250hd 4X4 and did not think i could accomplish replacing the inner seals. i need new rotors, calipers, ball joints, u-joints and inner seals. i know a good mechanic but they will charge about $1300 CAN or $900 U.S.. They are giving me 30% off on parts as that is what i can get throught the local parts store and they are only charging me about .2 hours to do the u-joints and about .2 hours labour to do the ball joints. i was thinking about letting them do it but it is alot of money. i am mostly concerned with the "special" tools required and the job being beyond my abilities. i am quite mechanically inclined though. Can i do this or should i just get my buddy the mechanic to do it. even he says he would not do it at home; he needs the shop.
Well i did all that except for the ball joints which may need special tools to do. I have never done them on a TTB axle before. But everything else is definatly within the abilty of a backyard mechanic. You will need a special spindal soket to remove the front hubs, but thats it. The u jounts can be changed with a few large sockets and a bench vise to press out the old caps. installing all u need is a hammer small socket to fit in the yoke and some pacience. The pass axle shaft has a slip joint in it ( look frm the front and you can see the rubber boot) so the outer half comes out easily. But you will need to drop the centersection out(like a ford 9 inch) and pull the c clip to take out the inner half. Not difficult at all just heavy. There is a different seal on each side of the diff. They just pop out and back in. The new inner wheel bearing seal and i cahnged the seals on the back of the spindal and end of the axle shafts. these two ride against each other. I spent 200 for 8 seals, 3 joints, new pads, cut rottors, and some cleaner. But you need allot more parts so you may have a deal with your friend. Also i get all my parts at NAPA for cost. My dad works there. Kind of a perk . It took me all day myself to doo the job, so its compleatly up to you. Do you want to pay or get some grease under your nails.
I know what you guys mean, Ive just go the Dana44 TTB, and ya.. bench pressing that baby up, and trying to get a bolt in, before your arms die. lots of nasty words hah
Has anyone istalled that Superlift Superunner system? Ive got the relace my tie rods, and am gonna look into price differences on the stock crud, and the Superlift kit. Now, it says on the superlift page, that the truck needs to be lifted a min of 3.5".
My trucks not lifted, but i am running 35" tires already, well 315/75/16. Do you think this would work still? Im gonna call Superlift tommorow.
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