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351m to 400 conversion help

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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 11:04 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Colt.S.
My 400 in my 1977 truck was rebuilt with stock internals and stock replacement pistons with open chamber stock 2V heads, I live at 5500-6000 ft and I HAVE to use 91 during the hot summer and 89 during winter to avoid pinging, I can barely get away with 87 octane fuel if its freezing and I retard my timing AND avoid every hill in the Sierra Nevada Mountain range (which is effing impossible).... Yes, the open chamber heads suck and obviously ping like a ****, or maybe it's just I got the one engine that is unhappy lol Doubt it though... I hate hearing those little gremlins hammering inside my engine so I usually stick to 91 and call it good.
Now I am building a new 400 with closed chamber heads and a 13cc dished piston sitting .005' above deck, I should'nt have anymore ping, for good quench we have to keep quench right around .040" for best results I have been told.
well, I'm at sea level here in MD, and how do you determine quench? from my reading it doesn't appear there is an accurate way? we have 93 octane around here.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 11:28 AM
  #17  
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Ask Tim if 9.5 is a problem with stock heads. Rusty is running stock heads and rebuilder pistons, although I don't know what the CR is. It has an RV cam and pulls quite well for a 351M. Initial timing is at 12 BTDC and I have lots of vacuum advance dialed in. It never pings or runs-on with 87 octane regardless of how hot it gets down here at 700' above sea level.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 11:36 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by mjr46
well, I'm at sea level here in MD, and how do you determine quench? from my reading it doesn't appear there is an accurate way? we have 93 octane around here.
Quench, or squish as it is more accurately called, is easily determined. It is the thickness of the head gasket, which is usually .039", minus the distance your piston is below/above the deck. Most stock blocks, cranks, and rods will put the top of the piston down in the hole about .020", but that varies a lot. And anything greater than about .040" of squish doesn't work. So, the piston has to be at the top of the block or above to get effective squish.

Go read the threads I gave you the links to. In there you'll find a link to a Crankshaft Coalition explanation of quench/squish. Also, you MUST have closed-chambered heads or there is no squish. And, I put a discussion of heads in one of those links as well. Lots of reading.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 11:47 AM
  #19  
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From: Harpers ferry, WV
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Quench, or squish as it is more accurately called, is easily determined. It is the thickness of the head gasket, which is usually .039", minus the distance your piston is below/above the deck. Most stock blocks, cranks, and rods will put the top of the piston down in the hole about .020", but that varies a lot. And anything greater than about .040" of squish doesn't work. So, the piston has to be at the top of the block or above to get effective squish.

Go read the threads I gave you the links to. In there you'll find a link to a Crankshaft Coalition explanation of quench/squish. Also, you MUST have closed-chambered heads or there is no squish. And, I put a discussion of heads in one of those links as well. Lots of reading.
I have left a message with Tim to call me............I plan on using his 400 conversion pistons, 400 crank and my 351m rods and block.......hope to make this into a 400.........cam will be a deh 255 or265 depending on his recommendation and it already has an edelbrock performer manifold and 1407 750 carb. I'll be using stock manifolds and might add dual exhaust......all in all, I want a mild/tame build......oh and I plan to use these 351c heads which don't appear to be much different from my 351 m heads, basically they have 78.4 open chambers, and same size valves as my 351 m heads....only difference is these cleveland heads are full rebuilt and ready to go.....or that is after some clean up they'll be ready....lol, sat in a garage for past 7 years....some surface rust
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 12:00 PM
  #20  
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Good plan. Tim can tell you how much CR you can get by with when coupled with a specific cam. And, he has his own profiles that Comp will grind for basically the same price as an off-the-shelf cam.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 12:55 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Good plan. Tim can tell you how much CR you can get by with when coupled with a specific cam. And, he has his own profiles that Comp will grind for basically the same price as an off-the-shelf cam.
Tim called me!!! got a direction to go, gonna use his complete kit!! all I need to do is find a 400 crank!!!
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 02:38 PM
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Good! But, last I knew he sold 400 cranks as well.

And, I was going to comment that he's a really busy guy of late. He bought the rights to the Track Boss intake manifold and has recently purchased the rights to the Todd Buttermore 351C block. So he is in the process of setting up the casting for both items and he will then do the machining in his shop - which he is also dramatically expanding. So, not only will he be the only place to get pistons for a strong 400, he will also be making the intakes for all Clevelands as well as the blocks for 351C's. Bottom Line: Tim is the guru and go-to guy for all things to do with the 335 series of engines.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 03:34 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Good! But, last I knew he sold 400 cranks as well.

And, I was going to comment that he's a really busy guy of late. He bought the rights to the Track Boss intake manifold and has recently purchased the rights to the Todd Buttermore 351C block. So he is in the process of setting up the casting for both items and he will then do the machining in his shop - which he is also dramatically expanding. So, not only will he be the only place to get pistons for a strong 400, he will also be making the intakes for all Clevelands as well as the blocks for 351C's. Bottom Line: Tim is the guru and go-to guy for all things to do with the 335 series of engines.
yeah he knows his stuff by just talking to him on this motor.........he said the 400 cranks are getting hard to come by and he doesn't have any in reserve to sell right now so, gotta come up with one on my own........few places online I found but 300-400 is outrageous IN MY OPINION for just the crank kit.........150-180 is more doable.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2015 | 09:28 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by mjr46
yeah he knows his stuff by just talking to him on this motor.........he said the 400 cranks are getting hard to come by and he doesn't have any in reserve to sell right now so, gotta come up with one on my own........few places online I found but 300-400 is outrageous IN MY OPINION for just the crank kit.........150-180 is more doable.

400 in general are hard to find. I spent 9 months searching for one. Finally found one on Craigslist in mid December of 2013 in Quincy California had to travel 4 hours in a blizzard to get the complete engine, mine was FULL, I mean FUULLL of ice and water from being left out in the weather through winter. What amazed me was that it passed a magnetic die inspection and there was only one crack in the driver side cylinder head. Everything else, besides all the piston rings being seized (used marvel oil to free them up) was prestine because of the amount of sludgey nasty oil left in it. Got mine for $50. Good luck man!
 
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Old Oct 6, 2015 | 10:41 AM
  #25  
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just to one-up you, I also watched CL and picked up a 400 for $40. Guy was moving and needed it GONE. No intake, but otherwise good. I'm using the crank on my build.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2015 | 11:48 AM
  #26  
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From: Harpers ferry, WV
Originally Posted by Colt.S.
400 in general are hard to find. I spent 9 months searching for one. Finally found one on Craigslist in mid December of 2013 in Quincy California had to travel 4 hours in a blizzard to get the complete engine, mine was FULL, I mean FUULLL of ice and water from being left out in the weather through winter. What amazed me was that it passed a magnetic die inspection and there was only one crack in the driver side cylinder head. Everything else, besides all the piston rings being seized (used marvel oil to free them up) was prestine because of the amount of sludgey nasty oil left in it. Got mine for $50. Good luck man!
yeah, unfortunately I don't have tons of time to look /wait for one........truck is on one of my lifts at work, so this is gonna be a quick project.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 09:45 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
just to one-up you, I also watched CL and picked up a 400 for $40. Guy was moving and needed it GONE. No intake, but otherwise good. I'm using the crank on my build.

OOOHHHH!! You lucky dog! haha
And here I am thanking I got the best deal ever $50 for a complete long block, including intake and valve covers haha


Good find man!
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 09:59 AM
  #28  
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From: Harpers ferry, WV
Originally Posted by Colt.S.
OOOHHHH!! You lucky dog! haha
And here I am thanking I got the best deal ever $50 for a complete long block, including intake and valve covers haha


Good find man!
add a 0 to that and that's what it appears I may be headed for for a 400 crank
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 10:07 AM
  #29  
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From: Silver State
Originally Posted by mjr46
add a 0 to that and that's what it appears I may be headed for for a 400 crank

OUCH... Check around the scrap yards man you may get lucky... Or you may strike out, won't know til you try.


Look everywhere on the internet too man, one is bound to show up, you may have to pay some shipping fees but, I had the luxury of time on my side and I was able to wait for one to pop up that w semi close to me.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 03:06 PM
  #30  
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yeah time is something I lack......tough to search as I work on cars all day long and to do double duty after work makes this hobby even tougher for me
 
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