HEY RUSTY!!!! Good to hear from you! Won't be ready for Cruzin to Colby but shooting for the show in Maltby. I'll send you a PM.

 

Hey Bob, the yokes on mine are 90 out as well so sounds normal. How far back would I need to slide my tranny to clear the pressure plate any idea?

 

Been too long for me to remember - but I have an old pre-war Flathead (with the clutch still in place) that I could measure from the pilot bushing to back of the bell housing. Not sure that's going to help you though, cause I think you would have to take the transmission completely out (from the top) to access to the clutch. Better check your Shop Manual on that. Thanks for the info on the yokes! - Bob

 

Ok thanks Bob.

 

I drained the fluid from my transmission (4 speed non-sync) and in the sediment I dug out of the bottom was a lot of metal flake and a few small chunks, the largest being about the size of the tip of a ball point pen. Also the fluid smelled burnt and was a putrid color as well as being quite low!! Does this sound somewhat normal and what you might expect to find in a non-sync Transmission or are these findings actually red flags saying there's bigger problems?
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Don't sound too bad , but it needs to.be checked. I would drop the tranny as part of your clutch project. Then it's real easy to pull shifter out (might have to , to remove tranny anyway). Remove top cover and clean and inspect.. New input and output seals and bearings if need be and anything else. More time than anything. Anyway, that's what I did when I put a clutch in my 51 F3. Don't forget to check flywheel surface.

 

Thanks cowdog, I didn't think it was that bad either and was hoping others would agree. I will take a closer look like you suggest just to make sure. Thanks again for the response.

 

I was at the "Vintage Auto" swap meet having a look around and came across this little gem! It came home with me.

 

Enjoyed a nice visit from Rusty48 today. He and a friend were in the neighborhood and made time to swing by my place and chk out Brutus up close. Rusty has a 48 F1 MH and was quite curious as to the differences between the two.Had a great time talking about our trucks and how we came to have them, looking forward to getting out to his place and putting an eye on his rig!! Thanks for the kind words fellas, be seeing you soon.

 

Well it was a battle but I finally won! Front output shaft seal on the transfer case.

 

What kind of seal did you get ? Is it just a single lip seal ?

 

It's what Chuck sent me for replacement, not sure what brand it is but yes it's a single and I'm gonna chk with Chuck to make sure it will work in that application. Since it's the only thing between the bearing and the elements I worry about it being enough.
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Ya I would too.
Acklands has a good selection of SKF shaft seals
https://www.grainger.com/category/ro...ecatalog/N-kz2
In this application I would opt for the CRWHA1
If you can find a CRSHA1 would be an even better choice.
Ideally If you could the right sized Mud block series of cassette seals seal that would be the best that would a life time seal.

You do not have to settle for the cheap *** single lip seals you get from most auto parts stores today.
Especially in that application it will never last It needs a double lip seal at minimum. Even if the second lip is just a sheild lip and does not contact the yoke.
The great thing is you have a part number on the replacement seal so it can easily be crossed over to another series of seals.

Below is an SFK seal catalog
http://www.brg-catalogues.com/Catalo...20Overview.pdf

Save the PDF so you have it for future reference in picking seals.
Most commercial bearing supply houses can order seals. And of course the specialized seal suppliers.

 

Thanks for the information, I'll keep it handy for reference. The seal I have is listed in the manual as the correct replacement so it's hard to argue with that. The one I took out is, I believe, the original since it has the original part number and not some cross-referenced one. This type of seal is new territory for me so I want to be sure and confident with what I do here.

 

Question is who chose the that specific part number. Since it is an area exposed to grit and dirt and potentially water if submerged a single lip seal would the last choice of seal as it provides no protection to the seals contact surface from wear from dirt/grit and will allow for water intrusion. A double lip shielded seal will stop dirt and grit from wearing the seal surface double lip that makes contact with the yoke will stop water intrusion.
Most all factory seals in automotive applications are double lipped unfortunately almost NONE of the after market ones supplied are, and are the cheapest ones they can find so they can be to marked up the most.
This is one of those rare instances where there are far far better quality bits available for very minimal extra cost.