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460 header install?

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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 11:30 AM
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460 header install?

Just got the parts in from banks for my 1996 f250 460. Headers and y pipe. Thinking about doing this install myself,but looking at how much room is available in the engine compartment,looks like it might be tough from the top. I do not have access to a lift. I installed the headers on my f150 5.0 by myself,but looking at each truck,there is a ton more room in the f150 engine bay then the f250. Is this feasible from the top and bottom or should I cough up the money and pay an exhaust shop to do it?
 
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Old Oct 3, 2015 | 01:15 PM
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I probably wouldn't be able to do it if I tried but my vote is let someone who is good do it as a side job. I'm about to pay someone to do my long tube install. Hope I can keep it under $400. Hoping to get it done in the next 2 or 3 weeks. Good luck
 
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Old Oct 3, 2015 | 02:16 PM
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Totally doable at home if you have the skills, tools, and enough beer. You'll want to come in from underneath, probably loosen the motor mounts to lift the engine, remove the starter, things like that.

IF you have an exhaust shop do the work choose a good one, exhaust guys are very hammer and torch happy. They'll get them in but they might be all dented up after.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2015 | 04:53 PM
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I installed mine with no lift
 
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 09:28 AM
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My local exhaust guy quoted me $250...so he gets the job...it's worth that much for me not to crawl around on the ground and make my old *** back hurt even worse. lol
 
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 05:22 PM
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honestly its a job best tackled yourself. . .250 is so low I would expect problems after the install.


aside from the low price, there are things that can, and often do, go wrong that will make the job much more of a wh0re than expected. things like broken bolts in the heads, y pipe fabrication, and possible fitment issues. these things will add up quick and your 250 dollar job could end up being 1000.


having done headers on some very tight car engine compartments, i can say the 460 engine bay is still walk in the park in terms of space.


regardless who does it, make sure you retorque the header bolts after a few heat cycles, a few times. I always get 5/16 stainless bolts for headers, which allows you to get a box wrench on each regardless of how close the heads are to the primary tube.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by '89F2urd
honestly its a job best tackled yourself. . .250 is so low I would expect problems after the install.


aside from the low price, there are things that can, and often do, go wrong that will make the job much more of a wh0re than expected. things like broken bolts in the heads, y pipe fabrication, and possible fitment issues. these things will add up quick and your 250 dollar job could end up being 1000.


having done headers on some very tight car engine compartments, i can say the 460 engine bay is still walk in the park in terms of space.


regardless who does it, make sure you retorque the header bolts after a few heat cycles, a few times. I always get 5/16 stainless bolts for headers, which allows you to get a box wrench on each regardless of how close the heads are to the primary tube.
Agreed. $250 would not pay me to put headers on a brand new truck, no leas a 20 year old one
 
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
Agreed. $250 would not pay me to put headers on a brand new truck, no leas a 20 year old one

the $250 quote was without problems/broken bolts...so could be a bit more,but still worth it to me.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cjben
the $250 quote was without problems/broken bolts...so could be a bit more,but still worth it to me.

EEECK in that case, you need to clarify with him who is responsible for broken bolts, leaks, etc.

$250 if he's covering issues is a good deal, $250 only if it goes well is a HUGE gamble. Things like bolts that might break are best handled with patience, patience that isn't possible in a high production shop or a guy that isn't making good money for his time. It's a real skill getting out bolts that are likely to break without breaking them. A skill you'd hope your guy has, but a skill that you need to incentivize him to put to use.

With the deal you have now he profits from breaking a bolt, he can then charge you a lot of extra money and has your truck apart as ransom. You need to turn that around. My suggestion that's fair is to set a range, $250 if it goes well, $400 to $500 maximum no matter how much trouble he has. And he's on the hook for any related problems that occur in the first year.

Also get or specify stage 8 bolts and remflex gaskets.


Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
Agreed. $250 would not pay me to put headers on a brand new truck, no leas a 20 year old one
You're union, $250 wouldn't pay you to put down your coffee.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BruteFord




You're union, $250 wouldn't pay you to put down your coffee.
I charge $50 an hour to work on vehicles, you would be hard pressed to find a QUALITY shop that charges less
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BruteFord
Also get or specify stage 8 bolts and remflex gaskets.
OP I agree with this statement. I've never done headers but I was talking back and forth with a guy on here through PMs and he told me that with the Pacesetter shorties he put on the bolts would come loose nearly every other drive cycle and he would have to get under there and tighten them up all the time so it wouldn't leak. Then if it leaks long/bad enough it'll blow your gasket and you are doing the job all over again.

You can get the stage 8 bolts from bronco graveyard for $44.00. Shipping was $7 for me so it's well worth $51.00. Also they are allen wrench style so you don't have to worry about fitting a wrench over the bolt which on the headers I have I've heard it's a problem and you would have to dent the header to get a wrench on two of the regular bolts . The stage 8 bolts should make the job easier for your guy.

When are you getting them put on?
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 08:00 PM
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I promise you that unless he is really diligent he will break some bolts. I had to work my *** off to get mine out of my 1989 460. I mean work them back and forth and a lot of penerating fluid and a lot of time. And time a shop is not going to spend. I would recommend using the copper gaskets on the headers. These old big blocks are hard to seal the exhaust manifolds
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 08:04 PM
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If you get a QUALITY header, you dont need locking bolts OR gaskets... Just throwing that out there
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 08:48 PM
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Put a set of hooked headers on mine from jegs. They went on easy the driver side. Passenger side ehh not so easy. Just be patient and it can be done. Just make sure u pb blast or some pent rating oil before as the bolts tend to snap off pretty easily
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
If you get a QUALITY header, you dont need locking bolts OR gaskets... Just throwing that out there
banks headers,so no gaskets required
 
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