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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 04:10 PM
  #16  
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engine angle

This may get you started.
After removing the front clip raise the truck up on stands and find a part of the frame that is straight, get 2 magnetic levels and get a 0 bubble on both sides of the frame rails by shimming between the frame and stands. Then with a magnetic protractor on the valve cover mounting surface you will get a close reading as what the angle is in relation to the frame.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 05:08 PM
  #17  
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Yeah still makes me mad to this day and he'll that was like 6 years ago haha but things happen for a reason I guess. As for the rear axle I want to 4 link it I have the 9 inch in now and I think I will probably have to tub it anyways cause I want to put about 15 in wide mickey Ts on the back I'd like to so I think I might just chop the axle and get a drum to disc conversion for it not too sure what route I want to go with that right now just trying to tackle the front end. As for your front end swqp why did you do for a booster is that running off of vacuum or Isomething it hydro so your not dampening any power if your running a bigger cam and also is abs an issue with this swap??

And thanks kenny I appreciate the input on how to go about doing the tilt on the engine.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 09:25 AM
  #18  
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I went with what is supposedly an upgraded booster for 4 wheel disc brake setup that mounts exactly where the original does. I was told that if there is nothing plugged into the abs that you shouldn't have an issue. On my rear end I removed the entire mechanism so even if it had a default to engage that there is nothing to engage and would be fine. I am running everything off of vacuum for at least now. I have a bit bigger cam (Just under 600 lift) in the engine but its suppose to accommodate vacuum accessories nicely and cause no problems. I have not ran the truck yet to actually know how it will act with the vacuum set up.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 10:22 AM
  #19  
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Okay sounds good and yeah I can't remember the specs on my cam at the moment have to look back at the sheet but I just figured if it's possible why not run hydroboost setup I'm thinking about getting one offor of a diesel because they don't accumulate vacuum. Where are you from anyways just curious your truck is sick and if your close enough I'd like to see it in person someday!
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 10:31 AM
  #20  
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Marty, math aside here is how I would position your motor. Prior to pulling the motor you should make note of the position it is in your engine bay now. Maybe measure from the frame up to the bottom of the heads and back of the heads to the firewall and some kind of side measurements because it will be offset from center. It might be easier to get the measurements after you pull the front body clip off. Also measure the transmission tailshaft position. Maybe from the center of the output shaft up to the floor boards and sideways to the frame.
Then install your CV front and do your rear drop.
With the truck sitting on the wheels on the floor lower your motor in position using your measurements. You can set it on blocks under the motor and trans pans and shim it right to where it has to be and then build your mounts.
The one thing you might need to research though is oil pan clearance, front sump vs rear sump. Scurtis mentioned having to change his 429 to rear sump. Anyone?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 10:31 AM
  #21  
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Thank you I was hoping to have it driving this summer looks like I will have to wait until spring due to some header issues. I am out of upstate NY. I used a rear sump for my motor. The front sump puts your motor way to high in the truck.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 06:26 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Uni Moe
Marty, math aside here is how I would position your motor. Prior to pulling the motor you should make note of the position it is in your engine bay now. Maybe measure from the frame up to the bottom of the heads and back of the heads to the firewall and some kind of side measurements because it will be offset from center. It might be easier to get the measurements after you pull the front body clip off. Also measure the transmission tailshaft position. Maybe from the center of the output shaft up to the floor boards and sideways to the frame.
Then install your CV front and do your rear drop.
With the truck sitting on the wheels on the floor lower your motor in position using your measurements. You can set it on blocks under the motor and trans pans and shim it right to where it has to be and then build your mounts.
The one thing you might need to research though is oil pan clearance, front sump vs rear sump. Scurtis mentioned having to change his 429 to rear sump. Anyone?
Well when I did the 428 swap the truck originally came with a 390 front sumo I sold it not thinking about that and my 428 has a rear sump (came out of a 67 gt500 down in tennesee) I dropped it in and it doesn't have clearance issues now besides the fact that it is kind of a pain the take the drain plug out to change oil. I like your idea of measuring at different angles. Of the block to frame and firewall as well as transmission. I believe the rear sump will work otherwise I'll have to get a different pan and longer sumo tube to go to the front.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 06:29 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by scurtis3893
Thank you I was hoping to have it driving this summer looks like I will have to wait until spring due to some header issues. I am out of upstate NY. I used a rear sump for my motor. The front sump puts your motor way to high in the truck.

Yeah my engine needed to be rebuilt and that happend this summer it sucks not driving it my profile pic is my truck btw and damn NY will be a drive I'm from Wisconsin but would love to see your build in person!!! Take notes off what you did and stuff. Especially the interior love the buckets I want to get some out of a new fusion just cause there almost like racing seats and are alot slimmer.... what are your thoughts??
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 07:03 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by MartyTheOneManParty
Yeah my engine needed to be rebuilt and that happend this summer it sucks not driving it my profile pic is my truck btw and damn NY will be a drive I'm from Wisconsin but would love to see your build in person!!! Take notes off what you did and stuff. Especially the interior love the buckets I want to get some out of a new fusion just cause there almost like racing seats and are alot slimmer.... what are your thoughts??

Well being Wisconsin there is a great chance I may head that way I have family up there I'm a cheese head by blood. And yea I am going to take the tracks off the 150 seats and see how they fit because they are a bit high now but I actually keep looking for lincoln seats just like the fusion ones because they are definitely like racing seats I think they are a great choice and they probably sit at a more proper height. I also may change my center console to the new raptor one because I think I can blend it to the dash better I'm having issues on how I want to end it at the dash. Your truck also looks great! These are such a sharp truck.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 08:42 PM
  #25  
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1957 crown Vic swap

I have got all the supplies now for this swap and I am curious as to if I need to use my original sterling mechanism. Someone is buying my strait axle and also wants my steering box. So my question is do I need my original steering box.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 07:21 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 1957460
I have got all the supplies now for this swap and I am curious as to if I need to use my original sterling mechanism. Someone is buying my strait axle and also wants my steering box. So my question is do I need my original steering box.

You will use the CV's steering rack in lieu of your original steering box. I sold all of my front suspension to someone. A lot of people are looking for the original parts.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 04:02 PM
  #27  
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Wouldn't you need a different steering box if you truck has manual steering rather than power? I believe the lines from the pump go into the steering box I could be wrong I don't have power steering on mine right now so I can't truly vouch for what I've said but I do believe that's how the set up works?
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 04:38 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by MartyTheOneManParty
Wouldn't you need a different steering box if you truck has manual steering rather than power? I believe the lines from the pump go into the steering box I could be wrong I don't have power steering on mine right now so I can't truly vouch for what I've said but I do believe that's how the set up works?

Your steering shaft connects via couplings to the CV steering rack.. the PS pump connects to the PS rack. Or, you could probably get a manual rack like drag racers do for new model Mustangs.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 04:43 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by MartyTheOneManParty
I am just curios on how the motor mounts would be mounted to the frame and what angle pitch they would need to be at really. There's gotta be someone on here who has done this.
You could possibly modify the existing FE/I-6 engine perches something like this.


 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 04:47 PM
  #30  
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Note that our engines are offset two inches to the passenger side.
 
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