Need Help, Multiple Problems
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Need Help, Multiple Problems
Hey everyone. Glad to be a part of this group. I have a truck now. 1987 Ford F250 4x4 with the 460 and 3 speed trans. I bought the truck thinking it had what was visible wrong with it. Now I think I am gonna have to pull the motor. It was overheating but I fixed that. But I am still loosing coolant and so far I see no visible areas as to where I am losing coolant. But there are other tests I am going to do. Like a block test. Also has oil leaks but no big deal. Anyways, the main issue I am dealing with right now is that after it sits for a day or two, it was a very long cranking time. I am wondering where is the first place I should look to solve this issue. Once it starts it doesn't seem to have a problem other than it doesn't pull real real hard. Just kinda moderately. Anyways, I will try and answer any questions thrown up but I will probably be on this thread a lot as time goes on. Thanks everyone for the help.
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No. Oil does not look milky, nor does antifreeze(just water at the moment as I flushed the system) look to have oil in it. I live on a pretty rough road. If it hits a big bump real hard, white exhaust will happen for a minute but not very long, if Im driving, like less than 200 ft. I thought that was odd. At this point I am thinking I just need to pull the heads. I drove the truck about 30 miles today. Lost a small amount of cooling, like just enough after its cooled down I can barely tell its lower in the radiator than when I checked it yesterday. My thought is a head gasket blow, coolant to exhaust port. I have checked most of the common items. Stuff like that. Its to the point I need other options cause I am just lost on it. I'm thinking run a test with a block tester, should tell me if its head gasket.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
there may be a leak in the radiator too.
my 88 likes to run about 1 inch down. fill it up and the next day it is back 1 inch down. but if you leave it for 3 months it is still only 1 inch down.
my 88 likes to run about 1 inch down. fill it up and the next day it is back 1 inch down. but if you leave it for 3 months it is still only 1 inch down.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Hey everyone. Glad to be a part of this group. I have a truck now. 1987 Ford F250 4x4 with the 460 and 3 speed trans. .... Anyways, the main issue I am dealing with right now is that after it sits for a day or two, it was a very long cranking time. I am wondering where is the first place I should look to solve this issue.
I'd bet the fuel is leaking overnight from your primary (front) float bowl.
Combined with the lack of acelleration my best guess would be the pump diaphragm.
Under the little square cover at the bottom front drivers side
Try tucking a clean paper towel under there and check for stains the next time you try to start it.
if you're going to rebuild the stock 4180 carb get the genuine Holley 3-1346 renew kit.
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TJC Transport. With the way its going, I am going to keep running it just like it is to see if that is the problem. I keep water in the truck with me, so I'm not worried about it. If it continues to fall a little every time, then it will tell me something is up and Ill do the block test. My vote is still head gasket, even though I really don't want it to be.
ArkWrknTrk. To be honest I am not sure if they are mechanical or electrical. Ok. I figured I was loosing fuel from somewhere, I just didn't know if I was loosing it from the carb or to me it almost seems as if I'm having to run fuel all the way up from the tank again. Cause I mean it takes about 2 minutes of cranking before it hits.
I will try that. I do know that the old man who had the truck before me, he put a 600cfm edelbrock carb on it. My thought was that he didn't vacuum balance the carb out, and I'm not sure that 600 cfm is enough for that motor. I would prefer to switch it to a 750cfm holley. Which I will do at some point.
ArkWrknTrk. To be honest I am not sure if they are mechanical or electrical. Ok. I figured I was loosing fuel from somewhere, I just didn't know if I was loosing it from the carb or to me it almost seems as if I'm having to run fuel all the way up from the tank again. Cause I mean it takes about 2 minutes of cranking before it hits.
I will try that. I do know that the old man who had the truck before me, he put a 600cfm edelbrock carb on it. My thought was that he didn't vacuum balance the carb out, and I'm not sure that 600 cfm is enough for that motor. I would prefer to switch it to a 750cfm holley. Which I will do at some point.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
If its an Eddy you won't have the same bowl leak problem, but it does sound like you have a mechanical pump that is losing prime.
Be careful cranking too long. You'll cook the windings in your starter.
600 cfm came stock.
750 is okay but be sure to get vacuum secondaries and a fairly heavy spring.
Be careful cranking too long. You'll cook the windings in your starter.
600 cfm came stock.
750 is okay but be sure to get vacuum secondaries and a fairly heavy spring.
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
no
I'm saying I think you have a pinhole leak in your fuel line that causes it to drain all the way back into the tank.
If you have electric pumps they should run all the time the starter is cranking.
There's no way it would take two minutes for fuel to get up to the carb.
I'm saying I think you have a pinhole leak in your fuel line that causes it to drain all the way back into the tank.
If you have electric pumps they should run all the time the starter is cranking.
There's no way it would take two minutes for fuel to get up to the carb.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
87 460 SHOULD have mechanical fuel pump. but that don't mean someone did not put an electric pump on sometime over the past 28 years.
even if there is an air leak in the fuel circuit between the carb and the fuel tank, it should still start on the gas in the float bowl and then die.
even if there is an air leak in the fuel circuit between the carb and the fuel tank, it should still start on the gas in the float bowl and then die.
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So what is yalls suggestion? I'm guessing I need to go over the lines. Replace any rubber sections and all new hose clamps.
Here's something I just thought of. The furl lines are on the drivers side. On the passenger side there seems to be very small look like vacuum lines coming from the tanks and its broken but looks like they did run too two black square like boxes. I have no idea what they are. Can try and submit a pic later. One is mounted like on the frame and the second like to the bottom of the battery tray. Look the exact same.
Here's something I just thought of. The furl lines are on the drivers side. On the passenger side there seems to be very small look like vacuum lines coming from the tanks and its broken but looks like they did run too two black square like boxes. I have no idea what they are. Can try and submit a pic later. One is mounted like on the frame and the second like to the bottom of the battery tray. Look the exact same.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Those are the vent lines from the tanks going to the charcoal canisters.
If the PO hacked the vacuum lines going to the purge valves I hope he at least capped them.
There were float bowl vents also going to the charcoal canisters from the stock 4180 carb.
Pics would help.
If the PO hacked the vacuum lines going to the purge valves I hope he at least capped them.
There were float bowl vents also going to the charcoal canisters from the stock 4180 carb.
Pics would help.
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This is it. Comes up the frame from tank and just stops. Then theres two canisters with nothing on them. I took the air intake off. I see 4 vacuum hoses not even plugged and 3 plugged. I can takenpictures of them one at a time if u guys will help me figure it out
