I just sold my 2wd 7.3 Excursion and picked up a 5.4 2011 E350. I thought the rides would be similar but not even close! The van is jarringly hard in the rear. This is strictly going to be a trip vehicle with all but the 2 front seats removed. Just myself, wife, and a couple dogs for passengers. Essentially no towing and if I do it would be flat towing my Jeep so no tongue weight.
Has anyone installed the leafs from an E150 onto their van? I have seen them down to around #1500 rating (higher arch naturally to give similar ride height). I know the 350 has a heavier frame but that shouldn't amount to more than a couple hundred pounds at most over the rear axle. And since I'm removing the factory seats that should be a wash. I will be making a platform for a small trucker's mattress to mount along driver's side (#50-60 max). I would have bought a E150 but this came at a great price and only 46K miles in excellent shape. Country dealership bought at auction and couldn't move it in their area for 6 months and their floated loan was coming due on it so they dropped the price to get out of it!! I love the extra height and higher seating position and am more than satisfied with mpgs as we just got back from a 2K mile trip with lots of mts and stop n go driving and she returned right at 17mpg! The Excursion only got 18-19 and it was a diesel! Major power difference though!
So I;m thinking of ordering a set of new aftermarket rear leafs to soften it up a bit and was hoping others here had paved that road for me.
My door sticker shows the following for spring code, but I can't decipher it:

MM22
ULC

Thanks

 

Wow, not in the good way either.............

The E150 of certain years are significantly different from E250/350's, most notably prior to 2007 model year. As such rear leaf springs would not be a direct swap.

While I understand this ride too harsh thing of the E350 trying to "soften the ride" with weaker or less capacity springs is a horrendously bad idea. You'll be introducing handing and possibly braking issues by such modifications.

While the price might have been irresistible an E250 would have been the better choice. If you're "stuck" with this E350 and it will be used as a quick-trip mini-camper or steel tent you could do a minimalist build out that would add some weight and greatly reduce road noise from the rear area that is probably just bare steel walls, ceiling and floor.

If you're hell bent on "softening the ride" by changing the rear springs those from an E250 would be the best choice.

 

^ agree with JWA. Changing springs is a bad idea. The vehicle is designed for heavy work. Everything ties together: brake system, shocks, tires, axle, and even the front suspension.

I suggest experimenting with the tire pressure. I believe your door sticker says 55 front and 80 rear. I recommend 55 on all 4 since yours is basically unloaded. I wouldn't go below 45psi on all four.

That's about the most drastic change that you can safely make. The problem is that you basically bought a dump truck to deliver pillows.

My E350 is always loaded. Many hundred pounds of storage bins, tools, and product. I estimate maybe 1,000# on my lightest day (though probably only 2,000 on a rare, heavy day).

 

This isn't rocket science. A little research shows that there are springs from #1500-5000 for these vans. Regardless of the BS the commercials drivel out these vans have been essentially the same for decades. Nearly every maker has offered heavy half tons (1/2 ton vehicles with 3/4 ton drivetrains). Good ride with strength n longevity of HD vehicles. Just because they no longer offer the exact set-up I want has never stopped me from modifying one of their offerings to meet my needs. Much the same as Ujoint offroad, Weld tech design, and Sportsmobile. MANY other individuals do the exact same thing, and almost everyone says the ride is MUCH better, soaking up bumps way better than stock. This is done by changing the spring rates and arch/length. I'm asking those folks for their experience and opinions of what they'd do differently.
But I do thank you for sharing your "experiences" in such things. Perhaps this is the wrong site to ask such DIY questions. But I was hoping someone here had the ability to decode my spring rate from the build sticker info I posted above.

 

No experience in changing out springs but I certainly would not have a problem with it. I'm a long term 5-lug van guy who loads lightly.

The old "real" E150, pre-2007, had 2.5" wide leaf springs where the 250/350 used 3" wide leafs, so it does seem like you will have to seek out some light duty 250 springs or post-2006 E150 springs. I think all of these are gonna be higher load rating (over 2000 lbs) though. Could you have a spring shop pull a leaf or two out of what you've got already, or build something for you?

Ford puts soft springs on trucks like the Raptor for purpose-specific uses, and so long as you end up with a general suspension balance I think you should be OK. You will end up with more body roll with softer springs but could move to anti-sway bars. You probably also want to maintain the rear static ride height as to not mess with alignment.

As for codes, all I could do is search the Internet...here is one hit saying that if you have a 4-character spring code, #2 is front springs and #4 is rear springs:
Ford Spring Codes - Shop Ford Leaf Springs by Code | SD Truck Springs | Leaf Springs, Helper Springs and Suspension Parts

Good luck,
George

 

You see me a little agitated. Bummer

It'd be foolish to discount all the good points made by me and JWA.

At your peril...

 

SD spring offers many rates that will fit the "new' vans. All of which are 3" wide sprung after '07.
1992-2013 Ford E250, E350 - Leaf Spring (Rear - 3/1 Leaves) [43-1153] | $219.95 | SD Truck Springs | Leaf Springs, Helper Springs and Suspension Parts

I will give them a call 2moro but was hoping to get some independent opinions from an owner with a similar set-up.

I thinks its ridiculous to ADD weight to make my van ride better. Sure it will achieve a better ride at the expense of fuel economy, brake response, acceleration, transmission and engine life, rear end wear, tire wear, and make it MORE dangerous by reducing handling response. Not to mention taking up space with stuff I neither want nor need in my van.

YoG, you are correct about the sizes. I don't want a #1500'er in a fullsize van, unlike a pickup. With the full body and heavy windows, she needs a lil more oomph to keep from bottoming out and reduce roll. But she was built as a passenger rig so I don't get why they sprung it so harshly. Like i said I've owned 1ton truck that rode better.

 

No agitation at all.
Your answers seem to be coming from someone who has never built a vehicle though. My F-I-L is the same way. "If you can't buy it, it isn't needed". "Are you sure you should be doing your own maintenance?". If it isn't done at a "business" by a "professional" it can't possibly be right and even then the manufacturer would be best. Needless to say I don't bounce ideas off him either.

To each their own. You do things your way, I'll do them mine. I can prommise you that if I were asking this question about a 1973 van no one would have responded as you did. But the suspension is the same. Its just that I want to do it on a "new" vehicle.

 

What's F I L?

 

father in law

 

Gotcha.

So what are your tire pressures ?

 

I dropped them all to 50psi about 1/2 way through a 2000 mile trip. Bought during the trip. This promptly lit up the tire pressure nanny light. More big brother BS to take care of idiots who shouldn't be driving anyway in my opinion.
Like I said this isn't my first go around. I just wanted info from others who have changed springs.
I appreciate your attempt to help. I'm just looking for something a little more in depth than a quick fix or canned solution. I tend to keep my vehicles for a long time and have a couple busted discs, so I have no qualms about making my vehicles comfy as well as nice riding. I have changed seats, tires, springs, and even entire suspension types to get what I want. Sometimes it is nice to do something more "mainstream" that others have done and you can learn from them and not have to do a lot of trial and error. Obviously there are a few aftermarket companies that have done what I'm after. I'd just rather not spend 2-3 times what a set of springs cost by purchasing through them to take advantage of their research if someone else is willing to share their firsthand knowledge.

 

Seems to me like you've got this all figured out which wasn't known to us with your original post---put that lack of info completely on you, not those of us trying to help.

Add in you're already aware of U-Joint, WeldTech and other Sportsmobile owners/vendors/converters so I'm hard pressed understanding why you'd come to FTE for answers? Nearly none of us so far find a need to soften a ride, we tend to buy something more closely suited to our needs.

Yes to each their own so have it your modifications as you but don't bash those TRYING to help.

 

My first post asked for experience in changing spring rates. Not about anything else. I haven't bashed anyone.
I bought the best vehicle for me. Now I'm trying to figure out the exact part I need to make it the way I want it. If you don't have any relevant information to help me achieve that goal, why are you cluttering up my thread and trying to give me attitude?

 

Your idea of downgrading the rear leaf springs is a great idea if it works out.

Problem is that we don't know you, and it would be a shame for someone to try a questionable idea and have worst case scenario occur.

Having read more from you: I can say that I have a reasonable confidence (or hope, at least) that you would do a thorough test drive after the mod, and then even make corrections if it's unsafe. The test drive must include heavy braking and turning of course.

But if you'd been here on FTE long, you'd know of the foolish things we've seen from people less wise/experienced than yourself.

Let us know what you do.