Another Spring Question
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,236
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From: Shelbyville, Indiana
Another Spring Question
I did some searching and haven't seen this question asked or answered. Now I am sure that someone has asked, but I just can't find it.
Has anyone done the V-code front springs without doing the B code rear springs?
The rear springs don't show any noticeable sag and with the RAS I really don't have any issues that I can tell in the back. Monster doesn't have any of the dreaded steering wander and she tows like a champ!
Here's my problem...the front springs on Monster are shot. They have degraded to the point that they have a reverse bend to them and I'm starting to hear strange noises and getting frame bumping when going over even small bumps.
However, my budget is squat...I just can't afford to do the whole V and B mode. I'll be able to scrape together about $500 or so to get the front springs and service the axles (yeah I forgot to mention that when getting under her to inspect the springs I noticed the rear diff cover is leaking).
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!!
Has anyone done the V-code front springs without doing the B code rear springs?
The rear springs don't show any noticeable sag and with the RAS I really don't have any issues that I can tell in the back. Monster doesn't have any of the dreaded steering wander and she tows like a champ!
Here's my problem...the front springs on Monster are shot. They have degraded to the point that they have a reverse bend to them and I'm starting to hear strange noises and getting frame bumping when going over even small bumps.
However, my budget is squat...I just can't afford to do the whole V and B mode. I'll be able to scrape together about $500 or so to get the front springs and service the axles (yeah I forgot to mention that when getting under her to inspect the springs I noticed the rear diff cover is leaking).
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26,410
Likes: 6
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
On my previous Ex, I did V codes up front F350 blocks in place of the stock block and the RAS in rear.
My previous ex never towed and my rear springs were fine, this setup worked nicely for the time I had it. With these items your factory rake will stay the same with RAS set on minimum setting.
The F350 block although called a 4" block is actually a little less (closer to 3.5"). The RAS on lowest adjustment will be 1/2 -3/4 inch of raise.
If you do this I also recommend a rear sway either stock or hellwig work great at keeping things tight back there....
If I had to do this setup again I would not hesitate.
My previous ex never towed and my rear springs were fine, this setup worked nicely for the time I had it. With these items your factory rake will stay the same with RAS set on minimum setting.
The F350 block although called a 4" block is actually a little less (closer to 3.5"). The RAS on lowest adjustment will be 1/2 -3/4 inch of raise.
If you do this I also recommend a rear sway either stock or hellwig work great at keeping things tight back there....
If I had to do this setup again I would not hesitate.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,236
Likes: 0
From: Shelbyville, Indiana
On my previous Ex, I did V codes up front F350 blocks in place of the stock block and the RAS in rear.
My previous ex never towed and my rear springs were fine, this setup worked nicely for the time I had it. With these items your factory rake will stay the same with RAS set on minimum setting.
The F350 block although called a 4" block is actually a little less (closer to 3.5"). The RAS on lowest adjustment will be 1/2 -3/4 inch of raise.
If you do this I also recommend a rear sway either stock or hellwig work great at keeping things tight back there....
If I had to this setup again I would not hesitate.
My previous ex never towed and my rear springs were fine, this setup worked nicely for the time I had it. With these items your factory rake will stay the same with RAS set on minimum setting.
The F350 block although called a 4" block is actually a little less (closer to 3.5"). The RAS on lowest adjustment will be 1/2 -3/4 inch of raise.
If you do this I also recommend a rear sway either stock or hellwig work great at keeping things tight back there....
If I had to this setup again I would not hesitate.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,055
Likes: 1,559
From: Media PA
Michael has you covered with the spring and ride height situation. 
When you service the axles pick up a new
'08+ finned aluminum diff cover, can be had from several vendors for $50 to $60 and not only looks good but helps to keep the fluid cooler. Part # 8C3Z4033A
Ford Parts - WWW.HORIZONPARTSGUY.COM
The new finned cover will need 12 new bolts as it is thicker than the stock cover, wants stupid money for the bolts but your local hardware store will have the 5/16" x 1 1/4" bolts and washer that are needed. I bought stainless steel Allen head bolts for mine 'cause I'm so cool. 
Michael's advice on the Hellwig (or stock from an EX or SD pickup) rear sway bar is great addition to any EX that didn't come with one from the factory. 
When you service the axles pick up a new
'08+ finned aluminum diff cover, can be had from several vendors for $50 to $60 and not only looks good but helps to keep the fluid cooler. Part # 8C3Z4033AFord Parts - WWW.HORIZONPARTSGUY.COM
The new finned cover will need 12 new bolts as it is thicker than the stock cover,
wants stupid money for the bolts but your local hardware store will have the 5/16" x 1 1/4" bolts and washer that are needed. I bought stainless steel Allen head bolts for mine 'cause I'm so cool. Michael's advice on the Hellwig (or stock
from an EX or SD pickup) rear sway bar is great addition to any EX that didn't come with one from the factory.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,108
Likes: 23
I did V Code up front. I already had RAS on the back and a Hellwig anti-sway bar.--almost level with stock blocks but there is a little unevenness to me.. I then added radius rods as I felt the truck still had a little bit of wander though I'm a PIA. I have the 3 1/2 F 350 blocks I plan on putting on. Leaving stock rear springs will give you a little down angle to the rear--nothing horrible or anything. For steering, the Hellwig is a must. Eventually replacing the rear springs is likely cheaper than my approach but I live in the middle of MT and have to do everything by myself. Replacing the fronts wore my **** out--many rusted bolts to cut, bolts turned wrong direction from factory, etc. so adding the radius rods finished off what I needed and was very easy.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,236
Likes: 0
From: Shelbyville, Indiana
I ordered the V codes and 4 inch F350 blocks yesterday. I'll see how she's sitting after that and decide what to do next. Currently there's no wamder, so I'm optimistic that there won't be any when I'm done, either.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 1
From: Coal Valley, Illinois
I did V codes on the front of my 2003 7.3 with stock springs rear with the radius rods and airbags. It sat nicely. I did the Vs in front of my current 2005 6.0 with modded Bs in the rear, stock blocks with airbags. It stands 2-3" higher in the rear. I wish I wouldn't have modded the Bs, I think it would be level. I can tow a 10K camper with a very heavy tongue weight and not sag however. It's growing on me but I still wish it was 1-2" lower in the rear. I tend to like it level. It does make a difference if it's a gas or diesel motor too.
Here is a link to a thread I started when I did mine. In retrospect, I should have gone with my gut and went unmodded Bs. I took all the measurements and the math told me it would be higher in the rear then I would have liked. It seems there are many opinions but measure and go with what you think will work with your particular vehicle. I found that the experience of others didn't translate to my truck in the end. Still happy with how it worked out, it does not wonder.
Here is a link to a thread I started when I did mine. In retrospect, I should have gone with my gut and went unmodded Bs. I took all the measurements and the math told me it would be higher in the rear then I would have liked. It seems there are many opinions but measure and go with what you think will work with your particular vehicle. I found that the experience of others didn't translate to my truck in the end. Still happy with how it worked out, it does not wonder.
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