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It's decided I am going to rebuild this in memory of my grandfather.
To Do:
-Major Rust Patched
-Major Dents Popped Out
-Grill Redone
-New Raised Wood Bed
-Redo The Interior
-S10 Chassis/Frame
-20" Centerline smoothies
-Air Ride Suspension
-Body Drop
-350 Small Block or Stroked 383
-ProCharger
-Speedhut GPS Gauges
-Satin Clear Paint To Keep The Patina
This is all the end goal I am in no rush.
I would love to get this enough power to pull a trailer with my show car on it that is also bagged.
My grandpa won this at an auction on accident because he was talking to my uncle and used his hands a lot and bought it for $65. This was used at our cabin for years and years until the copper radiator was stolen in the 80's and sat ever since were it became what it is now. They named it the "Red Bomber" so I will keep that name.
They believe it is a '47 I have not had the chance to locate the VIN the doors are stuck shut and its sunk down to the wheel. I was surprised that the window cranks still worked and rolled the windows up (minus glass).
'The toughest thing in the North Woods' might be gettin' this rig back on the road! Looks like it's already slammed to the ground as is. Seriously though I have seen worse revived and your plan to build it with somewhat of a 'rat' body is a good choice. Welcome to the forum and keep us informed as you move along. I like correct restorations but I also like seeing creative engineering such as our new friend Lumbah has demonstrated with his explorer chassis transplant. Best of luck! And great photos.
Motor is a later model flathead. It has narrow belt Mercury water pumps so it may be a Merc motor with a 4 inch crank but it has a 94 carb instead of the teapot carb used on the Mercs so its a crap shoot if its a true Merc motor or not.
Motor is a later model flathead. It has narrow belt Mercury water pumps so it may be a Merc motor with a 4 inch crank but it has a 94 carb instead of the teapot carb used on the Mercs so its a crap shoot if its a true Merc motor or not.
And so it begins! Don't lose sight of the end result while you're working on it. From my experience, each task was broken down into small parts and worked through completely before taking a break. It gives you a feeling of satisfaction to check off each one! Good luck and keep the pics coming.
Thank you for the advice! Current task is locating the VIN on the vehicle to see if it was ever registered. The title burned down with our old cabin, and the plates on the vehicle show a 1977 year make which makes no since since the plates last registration sticker on it was 1972. That plate is also shown on the vehicle in the pictures of it in the 70s. So I need advice as to where to find the VIN.
My '40 likewise did not have a VIN on it. They did not keep any ID plates on the project that I inherited, so I opted to use the registration for the Explorer that I built it on. I did hear that a VIN might be on the frame near the engine on the right side of a '40.
Here's what I found online: Finding Your Truck's VIN - FORDification.com
You might have to apply for a replacement title at the DMV.
On the drivers side, the left side, towards the front of the frame there are two rivets in front of the horn mount. The serial number should be ahead of those rivets. Use a sanding block to sand the rust down until you see the numbers that are stamped into the frame.
Last edited by tacomacream; Sep 23, 2015 at 12:51 PM.
Reason: discription
My '40 likewise did not have a VIN on it. They did not keep any ID plates on the project that I inherited, so I opted to use the registration for the Explorer that I built it on. I did hear that a VIN might be on the frame near the engine on the right side of a '40.
Here's what I found online: Finding Your Truck's VIN - FORDification.com
You might have to apply for a replacement title at the DMV.
We tried and they said we have to have proof it is ours... He bought it at an auction for $65 so you should know how long ago that was to buy that cheap. So there is no proof anymore and would have been in the cabin that burned down.
I plan to swap onto a s10 so i guess ill have to maybe wait and use that registration but then it will show up as a chevy s10 when its really a ford lol how does that work.
On the drivers side, the left side, towards the front of the frame there are two rivets in front of the horn mount. The serial number should be ahead of those rivets. Use a sanding block to sand the rust down until you see the numbers that are stamped into the frame.
I will have to try and see if i can get to it. It sits on the ground so idk if ill be able to.
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