Oil cooler replacement, EGR delete (with pictures)
#61
#63
#64
Um....electrons flow from Negative to Positive.
(for the math) Positive charges flow from Positive to Negative.
ALL electrical engineering calculations "assume" Positive Current flow....... (but the actual current [NOT Voltage] is due to the electron flow)
#65
Beef up the negative wire, it will increase voltage output of the alternator and clean your grounding locations.
#66
My perspective ....
You really don't need any alternator negative wire upgrades as all the charging electrons have a large pathway through the block to the 2/0 wire up to the negative terminal on the passenger battery, and an 8ga wire then to the frame pathway. However during the highest load, during starting, the layout is deficient and you need an upgrade by running a 1/0 wire from the drivers frame rail connection to the engine block. IMO, this is the reason that some people have noticed that the passenger side battery is the first to lose its charging ability. A battery's life is determined by how many starting events and how much is drawn at each one of those (with a given it is recharged correctly each time).
With the addition of a higher amp output alternator you do need to upgrade the positive side wire as it is only a 6ga wire. The addition of a fused 12ga wire from the alternator output to the passenger positive terminal will do this for a 140amp. If you go to a higher output alternator like a 230a, then the additional wire should be a 4ga. All the other cables on the truck are sufficient. Going a little higher in ga won't hurt anything but it is important to use a fuse or fuseable link for the additional current rated at the proper size.
Some people feel more comfortable in adding a wire between the alternator terminal and the drivers side battery positive terminal in case a high resistance issue develops between the two batteries positive cabling. That gets more complicated as the size of the wire and fuse has to be implied for the situation your expecting. If current is shared equally then the sizing is simple. But if you are designing around limited flow to one side, how high in amps do you fuse at without exceeding the point you are trying to protect at? It is just more simpler to go to the passenger side and insure that the connections are good at every oil change.
But whatever makes you comfortable! That's why we mod.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...batteries.html
You really don't need any alternator negative wire upgrades as all the charging electrons have a large pathway through the block to the 2/0 wire up to the negative terminal on the passenger battery, and an 8ga wire then to the frame pathway. However during the highest load, during starting, the layout is deficient and you need an upgrade by running a 1/0 wire from the drivers frame rail connection to the engine block. IMO, this is the reason that some people have noticed that the passenger side battery is the first to lose its charging ability. A battery's life is determined by how many starting events and how much is drawn at each one of those (with a given it is recharged correctly each time).
With the addition of a higher amp output alternator you do need to upgrade the positive side wire as it is only a 6ga wire. The addition of a fused 12ga wire from the alternator output to the passenger positive terminal will do this for a 140amp. If you go to a higher output alternator like a 230a, then the additional wire should be a 4ga. All the other cables on the truck are sufficient. Going a little higher in ga won't hurt anything but it is important to use a fuse or fuseable link for the additional current rated at the proper size.
Some people feel more comfortable in adding a wire between the alternator terminal and the drivers side battery positive terminal in case a high resistance issue develops between the two batteries positive cabling. That gets more complicated as the size of the wire and fuse has to be implied for the situation your expecting. If current is shared equally then the sizing is simple. But if you are designing around limited flow to one side, how high in amps do you fuse at without exceeding the point you are trying to protect at? It is just more simpler to go to the passenger side and insure that the connections are good at every oil change.
But whatever makes you comfortable! That's why we mod.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...batteries.html
#67
The reason I like to think in both perspectives is that I see so many modifiers or vendors who sell cable upgrades only think about the positive side. It's easy to find vendors who supply all this fancy cable and fusing upgrades that in reality are not doing anything for the real issue. It might look great when you open the hood, but you are spending money for a no cure situation. Not that people shouldn't spend money for how they want their truck to look. For the most part I think the Ford engineers sized correctly, it's just the ground or negative side that is deficient.
#68
#69
#70
My perspective ....
You really don't need any alternator negative wire upgrades as all the charging electrons have a large pathway through the block to the 2/0 wire up to the negative terminal on the passenger battery, and an 8ga wire then to the frame pathway. However during the highest load, during starting, the layout is deficient and you need an upgrade by running a 1/0 wire from the drivers frame rail connection to the engine block. IMO, this is the reason that some people have noticed that the passenger side battery is the first to lose its charging ability. A battery's life is determined by how many starting events and how much is drawn at each one of those (with a given it is recharged correctly each time).
With the addition of a higher amp output alternator you do need to upgrade the positive side wire as it is only a 6ga wire. The addition of a fused 12ga wire from the alternator output to the passenger positive terminal will do this for a 140amp. If you go to a higher output alternator like a 230a, then the additional wire should be a 4ga. All the other cables on the truck are sufficient. Going a little higher in ga won't hurt anything but it is important to use a fuse or fuseable link for the additional current rated at the proper size.
Some people feel more comfortable in adding a wire between the alternator terminal and the drivers side battery positive terminal in case a high resistance issue develops between the two batteries positive cabling. That gets more complicated as the size of the wire and fuse has to be implied for the situation your expecting. If current is shared equally then the sizing is simple. But if you are designing around limited flow to one side, how high in amps do you fuse at without exceeding the point you are trying to protect at? It is just more simpler to go to the passenger side and insure that the connections are good at every oil change.
But whatever makes you comfortable! That's why we mod.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...batteries.html
You really don't need any alternator negative wire upgrades as all the charging electrons have a large pathway through the block to the 2/0 wire up to the negative terminal on the passenger battery, and an 8ga wire then to the frame pathway. However during the highest load, during starting, the layout is deficient and you need an upgrade by running a 1/0 wire from the drivers frame rail connection to the engine block. IMO, this is the reason that some people have noticed that the passenger side battery is the first to lose its charging ability. A battery's life is determined by how many starting events and how much is drawn at each one of those (with a given it is recharged correctly each time).
With the addition of a higher amp output alternator you do need to upgrade the positive side wire as it is only a 6ga wire. The addition of a fused 12ga wire from the alternator output to the passenger positive terminal will do this for a 140amp. If you go to a higher output alternator like a 230a, then the additional wire should be a 4ga. All the other cables on the truck are sufficient. Going a little higher in ga won't hurt anything but it is important to use a fuse or fuseable link for the additional current rated at the proper size.
Some people feel more comfortable in adding a wire between the alternator terminal and the drivers side battery positive terminal in case a high resistance issue develops between the two batteries positive cabling. That gets more complicated as the size of the wire and fuse has to be implied for the situation your expecting. If current is shared equally then the sizing is simple. But if you are designing around limited flow to one side, how high in amps do you fuse at without exceeding the point you are trying to protect at? It is just more simpler to go to the passenger side and insure that the connections are good at every oil change.
But whatever makes you comfortable! That's why we mod.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...batteries.html
#71
#72
Awesome thread and great pictures..
It's pretty common once you do this job for your Oil Pressure Sending (OPS) unit to act up "soon". So, if/when you start getting the "check Gage" lite and your Oil Pressure "gauge" reads 0 it's just a simple OPS replacement.. to fix it.
I noticed your OPS was a bit oily already in your early pics.
It's pretty common once you do this job for your Oil Pressure Sending (OPS) unit to act up "soon". So, if/when you start getting the "check Gage" lite and your Oil Pressure "gauge" reads 0 it's just a simple OPS replacement.. to fix it.
I noticed your OPS was a bit oily already in your early pics.
#73
I completely agree with Watson, adding extra cables is a good thing.
#74
Awesome thread and great pictures..
It's pretty common once you do this job for your Oil Pressure Sending (OPS) unit to act up "soon". So, if/when you start getting the "check Gage" lite and your Oil Pressure "gauge" reads 0 it's just a simple OPS replacement.. to fix it.
I noticed your OPS was a bit oily already in your early pics.
It's pretty common once you do this job for your Oil Pressure Sending (OPS) unit to act up "soon". So, if/when you start getting the "check Gage" lite and your Oil Pressure "gauge" reads 0 it's just a simple OPS replacement.. to fix it.
I noticed your OPS was a bit oily already in your early pics.
#75
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madhatt
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
31
03-13-2014 05:05 PM