1993 F150 I6 Overheating problems HELP
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 87
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From: Dallas, Tx
1993 F150 I6 Overheating problems HELP
I recently replaced the crankshaft and bearings. Ever since i did that the truck has been over heating. Before It would run very cool and would almost never run past the letter 'O'. It seems to warm up very quickly (within 7mins). After 10mins of running it the temp gauge would get up to 'R'. If i drive it on the highway for more than 20mins, the gauge would be around the letter 'A'. I removed and tested the thermostat and it opened as it should.
I pressure tested the system up to 15 psi and it held pressure.
My friend tells me that there might be air in the system. I believe the heater core may be at fault since it gurgles and makes the cab smell like antifreeze.
Currently i have replaced:
Upper radiator hose
All hose clamps
Thermostat
Thermostat housing gasket
I use this truck for work and to commute to school when i can't ride my motorcycle. At the moment it's out of commission until i figure this out.
I NEED IT FOR WORK. Please any help would be great.
I pressure tested the system up to 15 psi and it held pressure.
My friend tells me that there might be air in the system. I believe the heater core may be at fault since it gurgles and makes the cab smell like antifreeze.
Currently i have replaced:
Upper radiator hose
All hose clamps
Thermostat
Thermostat housing gasket
I use this truck for work and to commute to school when i can't ride my motorcycle. At the moment it's out of commission until i figure this out.
I NEED IT FOR WORK. Please any help would be great.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 520
Likes: 4
From: Deepwater Mo.
Did you let the truck run with the radiator cap off? You might have air in the system... Just let it run and when the water starts to over flow just rev the engine slightly to let the thermostat open. Add more coolant as needed. O...Make sure you have the thermostat in correctly.
I use to live in Dallas area...Plano Tx. my old stomping ground. Lived there for 22 years.
I use to live in Dallas area...Plano Tx. my old stomping ground. Lived there for 22 years.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 87
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From: Dallas, Tx
Did you let the truck run with the radiator cap off? You might have air in the system... Just let it run and when the water starts to over flow just rev the engine slightly to let the thermostat open. Add more coolant as needed. O...Make sure you have the thermostat in correctly.
I use to live in Dallas area...Plano Tx. my old stomping ground. Lived there for 22 years.
I use to live in Dallas area...Plano Tx. my old stomping ground. Lived there for 22 years.
Yeah I've delivered several appliances in plano, its very urban/country like. Beautiful scenery.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 87
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From: Dallas, Tx
Just reinstalled the thermostat with a new gasket. I also checked the cooling system with a block tester and it passed with flying colors. The gauge on the dash still shows 3/4 HOT after 10~15mins of driving. What else could it be? When i installed the new crankshaft i accidentally broke ceramic portion of the sensor. Even though its broken, it still makes contact with the connector and gives signal. Could it be the sensor? Is there another way of telling if the engine is overheating?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
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From: Mexico, Missouri
I would just replace the sender, its like $~10.
And you need to either get an infrared thermometer and point it at the t-stats housing or install a digital or mechanical gauge and sensor.
Did you test either t-stats in boiling water before installing to be sure they open? What brand are you buying, using? This is where I don't trust anything else except for Motorcraft. No guess work, period. Also, IF you decide to change the sender, take a small battery terminal brush or bore brush, preferably brass or steel, and clean the threads out. Had a similar overheat problem for years. All it turned out to be was rust in the threads because the sender on the 300 is the block and not the intake manifold like the V8's.
Just my thoughts...
And you need to either get an infrared thermometer and point it at the t-stats housing or install a digital or mechanical gauge and sensor.
Did you test either t-stats in boiling water before installing to be sure they open? What brand are you buying, using? This is where I don't trust anything else except for Motorcraft. No guess work, period. Also, IF you decide to change the sender, take a small battery terminal brush or bore brush, preferably brass or steel, and clean the threads out. Had a similar overheat problem for years. All it turned out to be was rust in the threads because the sender on the 300 is the block and not the intake manifold like the V8's.
Just my thoughts...
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
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From: Dallas, Tx
I did test the thermostat and it opened as it should. Replaced the sensor, thinking it was a faulty reading. It is still overheating and so am I with frustration. I able to get the temperature down by throwing it neutral while coasting downhill and revving the engine. Could it be the water pump impeller? clogged radiator?
I opened the rad cap and i see some flow. When i took apart the engine a couple weeks ago, my friend recalled seeing copper colored grains or shavings in the radiator. I personally didn't see that.
I able to get the temperature down by throwing it neutral while coasting downhill and revving the engine. Could it be the water pump impeller? clogged radiator? I opened the rad cap and i see some flow. When i took apart the engine a couple weeks ago, my friend recalled seeing copper colored grains or shavings in the radiator. I personally didn't see that.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
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From: Dallas, Tx
Some people are saying it may be the head gasket that might be blown, because i did overheat it once( got close to the red). But i immediately pulled over. A loose distributor caused it. I did test the coolant for any exhaust gases and I didn't find any.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
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From: Dallas, Tx
1)The clutch fan
-----Cold: the fan turned around 2.5 revolutions
-----Hot: (starting to overheat)with the engine turned off the fan spun around 2~2.5 revolutions. I couldn't stop it with news paper while running
2)Radiator Hoses
-----Cold: Both seem fine. No collapsing when revved
-----Warm: (5~10mins of running) Both starting to get hot. Lower hose seems slightly cooler.
-----Hot:(10~15mins running @2.5k RPM) Starting to overheat. Both upper/lower hoses equally hot and stiff. No collapsing observed
Observations: It appears when i rev the engine the temp slightly drops by a few degrees. Currently in the cooling system is %30 red coolant and %70 pure water. The coolant was stored while i was replacing the crankshaft.
