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Worked great. The bushings Darrin used looked to be a little thicker, so if you have worn into the hinge itself you could probably use those and still get a good fit. My bushings were gone but the pin hadn't gotten into the metal yet so I went with Dorman.
Still trying to figure out why my AC won't hold pressure. I have it narrowed down to the connection between the hose from the compressor and the drier.... installed my old drier and it was still leaking so I guess bad sealing surface on the hose. I'm trying to return and already bought a $50 4 seasons brand, hoping I don't have to go for the $150 Motorcraft....
Reuse the liquid line's ends, braze on a No6 reduced barrier end on it. I may have some RB6 hose here in fact, you just need the correct fitting out of the condenser. Can always braze a fitting to it too. I have a crimp tool to make AC hoses if you want it to use.
If not, I can tell you what to order from Coldhose.com
My truck has just a pipe from the liquid line of the condenser to the evap core. What does yours have?
OE hose was Parker, good stuff. Usually low side is No 10 size and high side is No 8. Easy to rebuild that hose with fresh parts, retaining the OEM ends. I am going to with my spare fittings...you just keep the dryer pipe, the compressor manifold plate (change the Schrader valve on the pressure switch...LUBE WITH NYLOG), and well that is it!
Steel fittings and reduced barrier hose would run you about $60 to make a fresh hose. This includes a new high side fitting with a serviceable 134A port.
Go to the help board at NAPA and pick up a package of Explorer tail gate bushings. There are 4 in the package, 2 short ones and2 longer ones. The longer ones are perfect for replacing the nylon bushings on the door striker. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6755144
You reuse the bolt and the bent piece that wraps over the striker bolt.
Piece of 1/2" PEX sliced lengthways on an angle works real nice too! And you can choose, red, blue, or white!
Ha Nate, I didn't see what you said. Good idea, I'll dig around to see if I have any hidden anywhere. I still have wind noise and slight daylight showing through the gasket/door area, even though the pin is all the way in. Maybe I need to bend the pinch weld out so the gasket pokes out more? I might try it.
AC components also installed. Took about 3 hours on Friday, pulled the rad, condenser, and reinstalled. Pulled vac while i was having dinner and then charged with three bottles. Blows cold now!
Old vs new compressor
Coolant partially drained and rad removed! Used a 5 gal bucket inside a larger bucket (secondary containment) to catch the coolant, caught about 4.75gal before it stopped draining
Take some vacuum hose and place it between the outer part of the gasket and door frame, It will hold the gasket against the door, sealing out the wind. Just a temporary fix. Sound like the hinges need adjusting.
The gasket is brand new from bronco graveyard. I will try to mess around with hinges since I already have a pin rebuild kit sitting on the bench even though the ones in there aren't that bad. I"ll just adjust hinge location and replace pins at the same time.
Ok update on the truck. I messed with the doors and succeeded at making the gap and wind noise worse!! I haaaate fiddly stuff like this lol... Hopefully I can iron that out this weekend, we'll see.
I also finally took the parts truck to the scrap yard, over a year and a half after I got it. The only things left were the frame, cab, and dash... Everything else has been used, sold, or stored in my little parts cache. Made $60 off the truck, three batteries, two radiators, and two AC compressors. It'll buy three cases of beer!
Also, my truck with two full tanks (including 38gal rear), trailer with only the rear axle left on it, and me weighs 12,220 lbs. I figure the axle weighs 200 lbs, so gross empty weight for the truck and trailer is about 12,000lbs.
Goals for this weekend: troubleshoot trailer lights, align driver's door so it shuts correctly, and sell the axle to some dude out of Montana.
Me too! It was great for pulling random plugs, light sockets, and bolts... but all good things must come to an end. I got a total of $17 in scrap for the truck... so yeah. I wish I could have just kept it.
and then I started on modifying the sway bar end links so I could run the sway bar and track bar at the same time. This is 1/2" Sch80 pipe, should be plenty strong for what it is doing and fits perfect! I'll have it all put together under the truck and slide the sleeve until everything is level, tack, remove, weld it out, install for good!!
04-22-2019, 09:30 PM
