Well, all together including getting this engine installed. I can't install it myself because I don't have an engine lift. It's going to cost me $6300.00

The reason I went with all these parts is because I found a fully assembled crate engine with the EXACT same parts. It is rated at 375 torque, and 356 horsepower.

If you guys have some suugestions that will help to squeeze out more power while still keeping the engine streetable please let me know.

P.S. I did find a 351 to a 383 stroker short block. Do you guys suggest going with this instead? Will the parts I picked bolt up, and will a 383 be a streetable engine? Thanks for your help!!

 

Ok I can't resist here is a below $7000 motor for you:
393 stroker
Keith Black 364 pistons
stock rods and block
Eagle or scat cast steel crank
AFR 205's
Air Gap single plane
Holley or Demon carb.
Cam with around 510 lift -- 228@.050 dur-- 112 ls
1 3/4 longtubes
Duraspark factory ignition with aftermarket coil (or MSD ignition if you wanna spend extra money)
125hp NOS kit
Buy a cherry picker for $250
Ditch the EFI-- carb motors are cheaper you don't have to keep buying bigger TBI and injectors and etc. every time you change something on the motor (like heads)---just buy a bigger carb.

Should make in the neighborhood of 575 horse and fall well below your budget unless your local machine shop charges like triple of what mine does or something.

 

I think if you use a drysump system on the oiling, it would let the engine rev faster& better and give you great oilpressure all the time. It's the way the big boys do it!
The idea is to let the crank turn without resistance of the oil in the pan.

 

I don't think he's building a 4WD drag truck. I myself would not use a dry sump system on the street. But hey that's me.

 

Well, it was just a tought that I had, and if he wanted something to spend some money on and wanted to really let the horsepower out and wanted to smoke the tires, that would help!

 

If I were trying to build a streetable engine a DUAL plane intake would be my choice epesially for a 4x4 If you want this thing to be a good 4x4 then a broad power band is best, and that is going to come from a dual plane intake. A single plane intake is likly to provide a higher peak hp but it wont be as useable power.

If this is your first engine I WOULD ADVISE BUILDING A STRONG BOTTOM END. This means a four bolt main block, maby not a forged crank but definatly balance the cast iron one. Forged pistons are definatly a good idea as it allows for higher compression, dont use chrome rings, they dont seat well and are only required for nos. A good set of connecting rods will be worthwhile keith black makes good connecting rods at a fair price, as well as good pistons. a high volume oil pump is inexpensive and good insurance. If you build a strong bottom end then it opens the door to upgrades in the future like higer compression heads or forced induction.
My suggestion would be to ditch the fule injection and the engine would look somthing like this:
carb:850 cfm holley: the avenger has some nice 4x4 characteristics.
intake:edelbrock preformer rpm air gap
cam:a crane powermax 240/248 (500hp)or a crane powermax 226/234 (400hp)
*go with a solid lifter or roller cam and definatly use roller rockers
Heads: the dart sportsman II are goodor the edelbrock vr jr, make sure that the intake vs exhauste flow numbers are within 17%
I would also use a set of 1 5/8 inch primarys on the headders, hooker could probably provide these.
Good luck

 

In regards to "scott in canada" 's comments:
I would have to also lean toward a dual plane intake.
2 bolt main blocks are suppose to be good to around 700HP so a 4 bolt main block is not necessary. Besides I'm not sure that ford ever made a 4 bolt 351w so then your looking at an aftermarket block which is WAY to expensive.
I also would NOT use a high volume oil pump. Just buy a GOOD quality regular oil pump like Melling. High volume oil pumps can cause problems with running the pan dry of oil unless you use an oversize pan, also moving too much oil through the motor can cause it to foam.
An 850cfm carb is way too much carb for a 351ci motor.
There is a calculator for picking carb size at the link below. You would have to turn that motor 9,500rpm to need 829cfm of carb!
A 650 should work just fine or maybe a 700 if you want something a little big.
http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/airflow.php

 

quentrm250, you took the words off my reply, before I could get them on the keyboard. I run 650 on my 351 with bigger jets and it's the best that motor ever ran. Stock replacment oilpump for 15yrs. of harduse. I never saw a 4bolt main 351. I do have an xtra 69 351w. with a forged crank.

 

James....Would that happen to be a C9OE 351w? I had one of those in my last Ranger project. It was suppose to have been pulled out of a 69 Torino GT car. I rebuilt it with flattops,224@.050 .488 lift cam, Edelbrock performer, 650 vac. Holley and a 4spd. OD. Words can not describe the fun I had in that 84 Ranger! I abused the stock 7.5 rearend for 2 years and it never gave out. I absolutely couldn't believe it held up. Even with 175 lbs. of weight on the right rear to give me a redneck posi-trac!!! LOL

 

Ditch the Accel distributor, anything made by Accel is junk, and will be outperformed easily by by even stock replacement parts, let alone other performance parts. Holley makes a good distributor nowadays, and MSD has always made the best stuff you can buy. I'd hate to see your money wasted on something that's not even as good as stock!

Everything with an Accel sticker on it is made in Japan, you can guess the rest from there.

 

How about a 426 351 stroker as seen on ebay classifieds, I would define that as a beast.

 

This guy has already bought the stuff for an EFI engine, so carb is out of the question at this point. Lets try and point him in the right direction utilizing the parts he has right now instead of carb builds that don't pertain to him.

 

Hi thanks for ALL the great replys. Actually I haven't bought the parts yet. I'm going to order them all by wednesday. Even though you guys have posted great ideas about carb build ups, I don't want to go that direction because my truck is used off-road alot, and a carb just won't cut it in extreme high angle situations.

I just can't wait until I'm finished building it and fire my new engien up. Hopefully the whole thing is done by mid-september!!! I need to break the engine in because, I'm attending the 4X4 Truckin Nationals at FIR in Arizona, on October 11.

 

Hi guys I have one more question. The edelbrock heads I'm going to use, say that they use 1982-1995 5.0L V8 Pedestal mount rocker arms and valve trains. I was wondering if push rods are part of the valve train. If they are I found my pushrods. My only concern is the pushrods i found say they work with hydraulic cams that are equipped with roller lifters. Does my 1990 Bronco have roller lifters?? Thanks a bunch for all your help.

 

Weather or not you have a roller motor all depends on what year block you use some are roller compatible and some are not and the push rods are extra. Depending on your block and heads you will probably need to measure the push rod length to be certain, if the heads or block have been machined, or if you go with a roller retrofit type deal. Good luck