Viper 5706V on a 2000 F350

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Old 09-02-2015, 09:17 AM
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Viper 5706V on a 2000 F350

I have installed one of these awesome alarms before, but it was on a Chevy.

My "problem" is the install was much easier than I anticipated, being that I haven't needed relays so far. Where do you normally need relays? Before I needed them on rear window, door locks, dome light supervision, etc. This alarm seems to have a (-) and (+) trigger for the stuff that usually needs a relay...that helps.

I have factory keyless entry. What I am reading is, the Type B, keyless entry lock system uses a (-) trigger. Would I be correct to assume I don't need to use relays? My alarm also uses a negative trigger. Do I just need to connect them to the appropriate wires on my lock system, or do I need a relay to modify the signal still?

I also read that the dome light delay will screw up the alarm. I read into that and Viper says it will just error that circuit until the light goes off, then reactivate the channel. Is there a better way to do this?

Thanks guys!
 
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Old 09-03-2015, 06:27 AM
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Because most auto alarms are triggered primarily by the dome light on signal a delay when power is removed IF trying to arm the system would indeed be problematic. It might be necessary to wait until the dome light goes out before arming the system.

Typically relays have been used for PDL's whether RKE is in place or not. I believe this is due the relatively high short term current draw engaging the door solenoids requires----the "brains" of alarms not able to handle that much current. Even though its short term the repeated use would eventually cause the fragile PCB to fail.

I also have PDL's and RKE but used the two-relay arrangement to trigger the RKE----I never really thought to use the alarm output directly to trigger the PDL's.

Mind you my experience is with Omega systems but I'm sure Viper is very similar, might even be made by the same people.

Not sure I'm much help here though..........
 
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by JWA
Because most auto alarms are triggered primarily by the dome light on signal a delay when power is removed IF trying to arm the system would indeed be problematic. It might be necessary to wait until the dome light goes out before arming the system.

Typically relays have been used for PDL's whether RKE is in place or not. I believe this is due the relatively high short term current draw engaging the door solenoids requires----the "brains" of alarms not able to handle that much current. Even though its short term the repeated use would eventually cause the fragile PCB to fail.

I also have PDL's and RKE but used the two-relay arrangement to trigger the RKE----I never really thought to use the alarm output directly to trigger the PDL's.

Mind you my experience is with Omega systems but I'm sure Viper is very similar, might even be made by the same people.

Not sure I'm much help here though..........
Got the alarm all done and found the following. I would like to share for future installers:

Viper's new alarms will ignore an active circuit until it becomes inactive. In this case, the dome light. When you exit the vehicle, close the door, and arm the alarm, it will lock the doors without setting off the alarm. Once the dome light turns off, the alarm becomes fully active within 3 seconds. I was glad it turned out to be like this.

I ended up wiring the lock/unlock alarm wires straight into the pink wires (pink-orange and pink-green I believe) at the grey molex plug to the right of the brake. The wires are next to each other and fulfill their function when negative is applied to them from the bottom side of the plug connector.

The alarm is working great. The only problem I had was the truck would not start with they key, but would start with the remote start. I think this is due to a lack of knowledge on my part. The alarm brain intercepts the starter wire, but does not seem to be passing voltage through the wire to start it with the key. Maybe I need a relay somewhere, but I just ended up connecting the wire as normal so both functions work, while both alarm outputs (green and purple) are still connected to the starter wire. Less security, but I only really did this for the sound of an alarm, the 2-way notification, and remote start.

Hope this helps someone in the future. These questions were the only remaining questions I had after doing my research.

Good luck!
 
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