My 1999 Ranger that I bought used has been serving me well. However, two days ago I went to visit a friend and when I tried to start the truck to go home, the engine cranked but would not fire. I assumed that perhaps I had flooded the engine, so I walked home. I went back an hour later and the truck started up immediately. Then, yesterday, the truck would not fire at all. I towed it to AutoZone to check for error codes, but none were found. I put my inductive timing light on a plug wire and found that there was no spark. In one instance of cranking, the timing light blinked and the engine tried to fire, but then nothing. The AutoZone man suggested changing the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. I haven't done that yet, but that is my next plan. Any suggestions? Can the Ford dealer find error codes that tell what is preventing an engine from starting that AutoZone can't see? For sure there is no spark, but maybe there is no fuel either since I don't smell gas after much cranking. Could it be the inertia switch cutting off both fuel and spark? Please help.

 

As far as I know, inertia switch only controls fuel and wouldn't randomly cut on and off.

The Ford dealer is going to get the same codes as autozone, but they may interpret them differently. The shop manual for a '99 will give you a good place to start looking, and what to replace first.

If it's not getting getting fuel either, sounds like the zone guy may be on to something with a crank or cam position sensor.

 

Its difficult to believe no codes at all are stored.
Maybe consider investing in the inexpensive ELM scantool running FORScan software to the viewing device of your choice discussed here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html & have it scan all of the vehicles controller/computers for trouble code clues & post up All code Numbers.
Seeing as how it seems the problem may be intermittent, check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail Schrader valve test port. It should be 64 +/- 8psi.
At KOEO you should have B+ at the coil pack electrical connector. If you don't have voltage to the coilpack electrical connector, or can't hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds at KOEO, suspect the ECM power relay, or its contacts or power fuse may be loose or corroded.
If you come to suspect the power relay, try swapping it out with a like relay not needed to run the engine, like the A/C power relay & see how it goes.
Same if you come to suspect the fuel pump power relay or fuse.
If the cam or crank sensors were bad, you'd likely have trouble code clues stored & since the computer can use either sensor to run the engine in limp home mode, its not likely both would go bad at the same time, so right now I'd not opt to replace them, as you don't yet have any for sure evidence either is faulty.
Does this puppy have an auto, or manual tranny????
Does it have PATS anti-theft????
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know how your trouble shoot goes.

 

If it's the PATS, there would be no spark and no fuel injection.
I just had that problem, I got a code B16XX, anti-theft.
Try to start with Ether in the Air Box.
Look at the dash lights, if the anti-theft light is flashing quickly, it is a signal that there is an issue.
I had to replace the anti-theft transceiver.
Just some thoughts, keep us posted.


I had this no start problem unexpectedly, I first thought it was the clutch position sensor, but that checked out to be working electrically, then I looked at the starter relay, that too was working correctly electrically.

 

Gentlemen. I greatly appreciate the help. I did some research on the Internet and found that the problem could be something as obscure as failure of the engine temperature sensor (really), so I decided that I would take the truck to the Ford dealer and have them try to figure it out. The AutoZone person told me that their diagnostic tool is "generic" and may not reveal all trouble codes. BTW, the tranny is automatic, if that might make a difference. The amazing thing is that after not starting all day yesterday while I attempted to start it many times, I tried to start it today and it fired right up. Once started, I kept it running while I ran some errands around town and then I dropped it off at the Ford dealer. If they can't find anything wrong, then I will have to keep looking myself. I can't afford to "educate" the $100/hr mechanic while he swaps out parts. As I said, I have an inductive timing light that tells me if I have spark -- and there was no spark when it wouldn't start. I plan to also test to see if the fuel injectors are spraying fuel (although I am not sure how to do that). My thought is that if there is NO SPARK and NO FUEL at the same time, it should narrow down what the possibilities are. Keep the suggestions coming. I will let you know what the dealer says tomorrow. Thanks.

 

Since it has an auto tranny, the TRS = Transmission Range Selector, located on the drivers side of the tranny case, its mechanical & electrical connector & wiring to it, also goes on your suspect list.
You got the trouble shoot sequence out of order, the inexpensive ELM scan tool & check list the forum was working up for you wouldn't have taken long to perform & would likely be Way less expensive & might have helped you run the problem down & should have been performed first, not last.
Anyway let us know how it goes. If they spend any time trouble shooting the problem, better be prepared to take your banker with you to pick it up, unless you set limits on how much they could spend looking for an intermittent problem!!!

 

Pawpaw, you are so right. I know very well that the usual method of swapping out parts until the problem goes away is the most expensive -- especially when it is being done at $100+/hr labor rate. I talked to the "service writer" today and I told him that I only want to know "what the problem is". I don't think he wanted to hear that, but he said that they will discuss with me before starting any work. My intention is to only pay for computer-based diagnostics. If that does not reveal the problem, I will tackle the job myself. I am very busy on other things right now, and I could use the truck if it was reliable, so that is why I took it to the dealer. I have only taken vehicles to the dealer for repairs about a half-dozen times in my life, and generally then only if still under warranty. (I've got an interesting story to tell you about that sometime that you won't believe.) Having said all that, I will let you know later today or tomorrow what the dealer finds is the problem, if they find any.

 

Ok will be interesting to hear if they can find the intermittent culprit. They really don't like intermittent problems, as the problem must be present for them to likely be successful at trouble shooting it.
BTW, does this puppy have PATS anti-theft???? If so, was its blinking dash light lit & if so was it a steady/about 1 second blink, or a more rapid blink, or was the anti-theft dash light out????

 

Sorry, I am not good with acronyms. I always imagine something that is way different from what they really mean. That can get funny at times. Sometimes I run into the same acronym in different settings that have totally different meanings -- like PDA, and that confuses me. About the only acronym that I fully understand is BS (Bad Science). As far as PATS go, it reminds me of an improvisation skit I saw years ago where one actor asked the other, "Who was the Patty I saw you with last night". ( "party/Patty", get it? I thought it was hilarious.) But getting back to the subject, I think you are "right on" again. The "service writer" asked me the very same question when I talked to him on the phone this morning. I didn't know the answer, but I do recall seeing some kind of "Theft" warning on the dash which I hadn't noticed previously. I am pretty sure my Ranger has all the "bells and whistles" that were available in 1999. I would buy a 2016 Ranger for $25,000 if it were exactly like my 1999 -- I like it that much. You guys are great. I hope you can tolerate my insane sense of humor. I'm like this all day long. I can't help myself. It is driving my wife crazy also. I think I will pull the fuse that powers the anti-theft system and see if that fixes it. I leave the keys in the truck all the time with the doors unlocked, so I really don't need an anti-theft system.

 

PATS=Passive Anti-Theft System=SecuriLock on pages 66-67-68 in the Owner Manual http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...b_aid_2009.pdf
Be careful trying to depower the system, as it could think your trying to steal the vehicle & lock things up & that could mean a expensive Dealer, or Locksmith visit.
The ELM scantool can query the system for trouble codes.

 

I have no new news on my "no-start" problem, but I think we are narrowing it down on this forum. I stopped in to see the dealer late this afternoon. The service writer says that the truck started and ran fine all day today. He tried it a half-dozen times, he said. He indicated that they are suspecting a PATS issue, just like we are, because the "Check Engine" light does not come on and therefore he said there would be no error codes. If the truck does not exhibit problems tomorrow at the dealer, then I will probably bring it home. Can I just pull the fuse on the PATS and eliminate it from causing "no-start" issues? Like I said, I have no use for an anti-theft system anyway. If someone wants the truck, the doors are unlocked and the keys are in it. BTW, the electric door locks have issues. If I try to use the key fob to control the locks, it won't work. Using the fob, the pushbuttons on the doors just move up and down superficially and won't go either up or down completely. If I manually lock the doors, I can open them with the key (although sometimes the key has to be jiggled to get it to work). I am thinking that there is some inter-relationship between the electric door locks and the PATS, and the failure of the key fob to unlock the doors may be triggering some kind of "theft indication" which is preventing the engine from firing even though it will crank fine. I am sure learning a lot about the truck from this forum, and I greatly appreciate it. You may remember that I was the guy having 4X4 engagement issues some months back. After installing the "$7 fix" that I described on another thread, the 4X4 has been working fine.

 

hi fred i had an issue like yours a couple months back in my 97 explorer (witch i love and has 520,000 miles on her )it did that a couple times where it didnt start!i had no spark no fuel pump , no codes ever came up i have a scanner. it turns out the pcm relay runs both the coil packs and the fuel pump so try and replace the pcm relay and see what happens:

 

Hi Turbo Tom. Great tip! That seems like something I can try without spending a fortune or a lot of time. I am wondering now if the problem will even show up again. The dealer has been unable to replicate it while my truck has been there all day. I am really amazed that your Explorer has gone over half a million miles so far. My 1999 Ranger just turned over 72K (super-low miles for the year). I am not sure my engine will make 100K, though, based on the rattle I hear when I start the engine in the morning. The oil pressure is good when running, but it sounds like some bearings are quite loose without oil pressure. I don't think it is the sound of collapsed lifters because lifter noise is different than what I hear upon start-up. Lifter noise is a clicking, and this is more like clunking.

 

Make sure your using 5W-30, as the 4.0L oil pump never got upgraded to be able to pump enough volume of the lower viscosity hot 20wt.
Also Ford modified/bored & stroked the 4.0L over the years, lengthening piston stroke to increase displacement & shortening the piston skirts to reduce friction & if the pistons aren't properly sized to the bore at the factory, it can cause piston slap/wobble in the bore at the bottom of the piston stroke where the crank shaft changes the connecting rod side to side travel, causing it to rock/thunk in the bore. Ford says the noise/condition doesn't affect engine longevity. But try selling one that sounds like a diesel!!!!
The engine is also known to suffer from CCDI=Combustion Chamber Deposit Interference, where due to lack of factory attention to part tolerance build up & the condition being aggravated by combuation chamber deposit loading in the squish zone, the piston crown can contact the head through the deposits. In my 4.0L the sound was more like marble noise, like marbles, or pool ***** clacking together, but not unlike a sticking/stuck lifter. The noise usually stops once the engine warms some & things expand to give relief. CCDI can be controlled by following Fords 4.0L de-carbon tsb, listed in our Tech Info thread.
Also the Motorcraft FL-1A oil filter is recommended, as others have been reported to cause noisy cold starts.
More thoughts for pondering, let us know how the noise trouble shoot goes.

 

Gentlemen. I needed the Ranger today so I went to the dealer to see if they had seen any problems yet. They said no problems found, but they were still looking. Nonetheless, they did return my key and let me take my truck without charging me anything. I really have to give them credit for that. They could have charged for one hour of "testing", and I would not have complained too much. I have become convinced that somehow I had triggered the PATS, and that is why it would crank but not fire. I plan to use the key and the key fob next time it won't start to see if I can "reset" the PATS to solve the problem on a case-by-case basis. If that doesn't work, I will find a way to disable PATS, which should be a final solution for me. With regard to engine noise on start-up, I think you are right that the noise is piston slap. It is quite pronounced for about one second, then disappears. I had planned to ignore it all along, and I will stick to that plan. Thanks for all the tremendous help this forum has been for me. If anything new happens, I will update this thread. Bye for now.