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I've never tore into a 400M before. When I took the intake off I saw that there was a pan or tray under the manifold. Now, I ordered the Edelbrock Performer Intake KIT so it should have came with all of the gaskets. It came with the two "intake to head" gaskets and the end gaskets (junk). It only came with two gaskets though. If I re-use that pan it should have one on the head side and one on the intake side for a total of 4 gaskets. Do you guys re-use the pan, tub, tray, whatever you call it?
And also how do I remove the dowel studs off of the heads???
Welcome to 351M/400 fords. It's called a valley pan gasket and you have to purchase it seprately. One of Ford's not so better ideas. Leave the dowel pins in the head, they hold the valley pan gasket in place while you're installing the intake. Hope this helps.
Can't keep the dowel pins in the head. The instructions say remove them and the new intake isn't drilled for them. It wouldn't seal very good with them still there. LOL. I could drill the new intake but it'd have to be PERFECT and thats not good. This is my friend's truck, not mine. I'm more particular to the 460. Thats what I've got. His name is Fordtrucker400 if you want to PM him.
Actually the valley pan gasket WAS one of Ford's better ideas, it keeps the hot oil splash off the bottom of the intake. The Cheby boys have to spend big money for special intakes like we already have.
Trim your old valley pan gasket to remove the "gasket surfaces" so it does not interfere with the new gaskets. There should be some small places where you can leave "tabs" on the valley pan to interlock with the new gaskets and keep the valley pan in place.
I use a sharp chisel to "loosen" the dowel pins then pull them with good pliers.
So, what type of gasket do we put under the valley pan where it contacts the head? And what gasket do we put on the top of the valley pan where it contacts the intake?
So, you aren't supposed to use intake gaskets when you have a new valley pan? I just placed new intake gaskets on the head and tomorrow I was going to put in the valley pan. My intake is an Edelbrock Performer. You are sayin that I don't need any gaskets.....just the pan???
I still don't understand if I need to buy some gaskets for my new intake swap? Do I or not? Its my friend's 400M. The intake kit from Edelbrock came with 2 intake gaskets which I have put on the head. Do I need to remove them and just use the valley pan in between the heads and the intake or what?
Man, I can't ever seem to get a clear answer on any of them. What do I need to do if I've already glued an intake gasket to the heads but I'm going to use the valley pan too?
I'm sorry, but now *I'm* confused. I've always just used a new valley pan and silicone on the ends, and nothing else. My Edelbrock Performer intake has dowel holes... is it ok to do it that way?
Well, the Edelbrock intake that we got said remove dowel pins on head and we checked the intake to see if it had any holes and it didn't. We sat in on the motor and it just rocked back and forth. We had to saw the pins off cause they wouldn't come out. Then we had to file them down. Sam bought a new valley pan but we already put some gaskets on the heads. I guess we'll just trim the valley pan just enough so it still has something to hold on to and use both. I dunno. I just know that the supplied gaskets didn't line up right and required some afro engineering.
The Edlebrock manifolds I've seen have holes or notches for the head dowels, and the instructions specify just the valley pan as the recommended gasket (like stock). The dowels are necessary to locate the valley pan.
Unless you have alignment problems caused by milling the heads or block (or maybe the manifold, if it's not new), the valley pan alone usually works fine.
BBG, i would have Emailed you but you blocked yourself out. might be too late by now anyway? many people find that the valley pan has a hard time sealing aluminum intakes, i haven't had a problem, but what i have found is that you have to seal the top of the pan to the intake. water will get between the pan and intake and sit in the pan and eventually rust through. i just did the trim job on mine. you want to remove all of the port area of the pan and a bit more, so that you just have a tray that covers the lifter valley and doesn't touch the head sealing area. leave the ends on the tray to sit on and seal to the block. test fit to make sure the ends sit nice and flat on the block. use a little sillycone on both sides of the tray on the end seals. what wasn't mentioned earlier is that you want to drill some oil drain holes in the tray to return any oil that does get up there. good luck and let us know what you worked out?
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