Lowering processes identification
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New User
Joined: Jun 2015
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Lowering processes identification
Hey guys...been diving into this truck finally...got new inner fenders, hood hinges and cowls. Have been wire wheeling everything and undercoating and painting everything to swap....went to take off the outer fender last night just screwing around and man some of those bolts are going to have to be cut off...specifically the lower rear bolt near the door/rocker...it look like theres a captive nut in there just spinning and no room to get a wrench in there...
But hey I learning and getting around the truck easier and easier every time....Took a look underneath last night and the more time I spend on here and the more I learn the more Im finding looks wrong on my truck haha..Curious how this truck was lowered and kind of scratching my head
stock ibeams? cut coils? Heated up coils or completely failed coils? axle flip without a c-notch?
Thanks for all the info...been reading build threads non stop and learning a ton
But hey I learning and getting around the truck easier and easier every time....Took a look underneath last night and the more time I spend on here and the more I learn the more Im finding looks wrong on my truck haha..Curious how this truck was lowered and kind of scratching my head
stock ibeams? cut coils? Heated up coils or completely failed coils? axle flip without a c-notch?
Thanks for all the info...been reading build threads non stop and learning a ton
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Yep.. a PO heated and collapsed the springs to get the front down... cannot determine whether the I-beam was bent to compensate for the drop. Your tire wear may be able to lead to that conclusion.
Dunno the year of your truck. I beams could be correct.. regardless, they have drums and I wouldda figured someone would have gone to discs otherwise.
10-4 on the rear... axle flip with no C-notch. A PO welded brackets to the axle tube... notice that one is slightly canted and there is a "heat-affected" zone.
Steering box is leaking.. contact Red-Head Steering outta WA.
Dunno the year of your truck. I beams could be correct.. regardless, they have drums and I wouldda figured someone would have gone to discs otherwise.
10-4 on the rear... axle flip with no C-notch. A PO welded brackets to the axle tube... notice that one is slightly canted and there is a "heat-affected" zone.
Steering box is leaking.. contact Red-Head Steering outta WA.
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Ok cool ill add drop beams to the monster list of things this truck needs haha...Worth doing a disc brake swap while im at it?
From what I understand I dont need a c-notch? Definitely leaves a bit desired in the suspension department but doesnt seem like a pressing issue...maybe Im wrong.
From what I understand I dont need a c-notch? Definitely leaves a bit desired in the suspension department but doesnt seem like a pressing issue...maybe Im wrong.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Ok cool ill add drop beams to the monster list of things this truck needs haha...Worth doing a disc brake swap while im at it?
From what I understand I dont need a c-notch? Definitely leaves a bit desired in the suspension department but doesnt seem like a pressing issue...maybe Im wrong.
From what I understand I dont need a c-notch? Definitely leaves a bit desired in the suspension department but doesnt seem like a pressing issue...maybe Im wrong.
As with your truck, some forgo the C-notch and put short bump stops but there is little suspension travel. Your call.. sometimes you need a truck to be a truck. And sometimes a railroad crossing will result in a hard hit to bottom out and that's not exactly safe.
Read my build thread... you're basically starting out where I was a couple of years ago: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ide-build.html
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Go to Part 1 of 1/1/2015 update of the Tech Info Compilation linked in my signature for info on disc swaps, lowering, etc....
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
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From: Phoenix, Az.
Is that compression fitting I see in a brake line? If so I don't think that's legal or safe. In a panic situation that could leak or blow off. I'd get the correct fittings and flare the tubes.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
I just noticed that too. Compression fittings on brake lines are very dangerous. If you're going to swap to discs later but are going to drive the truck in the mean time, that line needs to be fixed now.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 561
Likes: 2
From: Willow River B.C.
Drum brakes are cheap to maintain and work great if they're properly adjusted. Less rolling resistance than discs too. I would not put it very high on the to do list.
The way that truck was dropped proves that some people shouldn't own tools, glad you're fixing it properly.
The way that truck was dropped proves that some people shouldn't own tools, glad you're fixing it properly.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Drum brakes are cheap to maintain and work great if they're properly adjusted. Less rolling resistance than discs too. I would not put it very high on the to do list.
The way that truck was dropped proves that some people shouldn't own tools, glad you're fixing it properly.
The way that truck was dropped proves that some people shouldn't own tools, glad you're fixing it properly.
But if you're miserly cheap and OK potentially wadded up in the trunk of a Camry, then by all means stay with four-wheel drums.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Locked brakes really isn't a good measure of good brakes, since the maximum deceleration rate and the maximum coefficient of friction of the tires to the pavement comes at the moment BEFORE wheel lockup.
Locked brakes is what you don't want.
Locked brakes is what you don't want.