When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Everything looks ok, just have to put it all in the truck. The rad did just bolt into place. But now, my rad hoses that I had cut/ trimmed to fit the modified rad in the modified core support to match my homemade engine mounts don't exactly fit the new stock core support holding the new stock location rad. I did get them on, but my OCD will not let me leave them as is. You can see the upper hose. I really had to stretch it to get it that far. I ordered two new rad hoses.
Well, it's all back together for now. I temporarily hooked up the wiring to make sure it would all work before I do a permanent wiring job.
Things I've noticed:
The 30amp breaker that came with the wiring harness was junk. It would run the fans for 4-5 seconds and then start cutting out. I replaced the breaker with a 30 amp fuse for now, and threw a couple extra fuses in the glove box.
The fans turn on at 185. With the truck idling in park, the temperature still creeps up even with the fans running, however very slowly. When I'm driving though, the temp stays around 160 and the fans don't even turn on. It would probably be fine as is, because there is no real stop and go driving around here. I'll leave it as is for now, but may upgrade to better fans down the road.
I'm going to install a manual switch and indicator light in my instrument cluster just cuz.
Now that I know it works, I can spend a little time cleaning the mess left from the destruction of the old rad. Then I'll be happy again.....
Well, it's all back together for now. I temporarily hooked up the wiring to make sure it would all work before I do a permanent wiring job.
Things I've noticed:
The 30amp breaker that came with the wiring harness was junk. It would run the fans for 4-5 seconds and then start cutting out. I replaced the breaker with a 30 amp fuse for now, and threw a couple extra fuses in the glove box.
The fans turn on at 185. With the truck idling in park, the temperature still creeps up even with the fans running, however very slowly. When I'm driving though, the temp stays around 160 and the fans don't even turn on. It would probably be fine as is, because there is no real stop and go driving around here. I'll leave it as is for now, but may upgrade to better fans down the road.
I'm going to install a manual switch and indicator light in my instrument cluster just cuz.
Now that I know it works, I can spend a little time cleaning the mess left from the destruction of the old rad. Then I'll be happy again.....
Well it still sounds like your fans aren't really up to the task, although they are helping. I put one of those "Taurus" fans on mine. 2 speed. And the low speed setting has always kept mine cool, in fact because the low speed worked so well I put off even wiring up the high speed fan circuit and it's been more than 2 years and still not bothered to wire it up.
I agree the fans are not 100% up to the task. The cruising season is almost done up here anyway (October), and right now, it would take 15-20 minutes of idling to get it to overheat. The truck has never sat that long and idled.
All I have for a controller is the "thermo-switch" that came with the wiring kit. I installed it in the intake manifold at the base of the thermostat housing. It turns the fans on at about 185, and shuts them off at about 160.
Not good news when simple electronic components aren't even up to the task. Where'd you get this kit? I ask because there is no freakin' way those fans are drawing 30A to trip the breaker. I'd be a bit suspicious of the advertised RPM or even the reported flow rate as well. Do you have access to an anemometer? One with a sensor on a coiled cable would be best to get behind the grill. Someone with HVAC service ties could help. How about a non-contact temp sensor? They are pretty cheap and pretty darned useful despite lack of absolute calibration. Either the fans aren't pulling or the radiator presents too much restriction assuming the engine had no prior overheating issues.
Last edited by Rasputin53; Sep 17, 2015 at 09:47 PM.
Reason: 'bit'
Not good news when simple electronic components aren't even up to the task. Where'd you get this kit? I ask because there is no freakin' way those fans are drawing 30A to trip the breaker. I'd be a bit suspicious of the advertised RPM or even the reported flow rate as well. Do you have access to an anemometer? One with a sensor on a coiled cable would be best to get behind the grill. Someone with HVAC service ties could help. How about a non-contact temp sensor? They are pretty cheap and pretty darned useful despite lack of absolute calibration. Either the fans aren't pulling or the radiator presents too much restriction assuming the engine had no prior overheating issues.
The wiring kit came with the fans, and rad. I paid extra for it.
I don't have anything to measure airflow. All I did was hold a sheet of paper out in front of the rad, and the fans sucked it tight to the rad. So, I figured it must be OK?
The thermo-switch seems to be working fine, it turns the fans off and on like it should. I've never had an over-heating problem with my engine before, and even now, it'd take 15-20 mins of sitting idling to get it even to 190+. I agree with you, I do need to work on this further, but it isn't my DD, so I can take some time to dig a little deeper and get it working the way I want it too.
The wiring kit came with the fans, and rad. I paid extra for it.
I don't have anything to measure airflow. All I did was hold a sheet of paper out in front of the rad, and the fans sucked it tight to the rad. So, I figured it must be OK?
The thermo-switch seems to be working fine, it turns the fans off and on like it should. I've never had an over-heating problem with my engine before, and even now, it'd take 15-20 mins of sitting idling to get it even to 190+. I agree with you, I do need to work on this further, but it isn't my DD, so I can take some time to dig a little deeper and get it working the way I want it too.
You think using that product I've heard of called "water wetter" might give you that last little edge ya need?
Shouldn't need a band-aid product for it to work.
So it overheats when going down the road? Do you have the spring in the lower radiator hose? I had a problem a while back on my old Toyota where it would only run hot when driving down the road. Turns out the lower radiator hose was collapsing at high water pump draw because it was old and there was not a spring in it to keep it open.
Shouldn't need a band-aid product for it to work.
So it overheats when going down the road? Do you have the spring in the lower radiator hose? I had a problem a while back on my old Toyota where it would only run hot when driving down the road. Turns out the lower radiator hose was collapsing at high water pump draw because it was old and there was not a spring in it to keep it open.
While that's possible it shouldn't be doing that with a brand new free flowing radiator.
This is a tough one. Your problem seems to be at the margins. Here are a few suggestions that might help:
1) Check timing. 6* advance works just fine.
2) Check, at the fans themselves, that you have full 14 volts. Again, be suspicious of grounds that are on the frame and not on the battery itself.
3) Pop the cap at temperature and look down into the top tank. You should see water circulating. Water pump blades can rot away with time.
4) Take it to a radiator shop and have them look with the gun at the top and bottom tanks at temperature with the gun. It only takes seconds and will probably cost nothing.
5) Not to insult you but are you sure both fans are rotating in the proper direction?
Regarding wetting agents, the stuff works at the margins if at all For $10 it is worth a try. But as soon as the radiator cruds up and the flow drops the problem will recur. These agents help transfer heat from fluid to metal and will not help you if your problem is getting heat from aluminum to air. The temp gun should tell you if this is your root cause.
If that don't get your Ford Blue blood a pumpin' I don't know what will.
Did Mine.
But now, my rad hoses that I had cut/ trimmed to fit the modified rad in the modified core support to match my homemade engine mounts don't exactly fit the new stock core support holding the new stock location rad. I did get them on, but my OCD will not let me leave them as is. You can see the upper hose. I really had to stretch it to get it that far. I ordered two new rad hoses.
