I don't think there's been an actual standalone tech article on the subject here at FTE, but it's certainly well covered generally and there's plenty of other websites to walk a person through it if so inclined.

It doesn't require any special tools particularly. It's most definitely a DIY task if one is patient. Timing light, and timing marks on balancer out to 40 degrees or so and a tach is about it, as far as tools required.

A new (or rebuilt) distributor as part of any engine build is important and this is sometimes overlooked. The bushings and mechanical advance mechanism gets worn and sloppy, and/or corroded and sticky, etc. Because of this, it just makes sense to have any new unit pre-curved off of the engine by a tech using a distributor machine prior to installation.

The DIY mechanic is simply curving the distributor on his engine in lieu of an actual distributor machine, this can get repetitive and not very convenient. But he can get excellent results this way. The distributor tech takes everything into account - engine displacement and build whether stock or race motor, camshaft, compression, etc, weight of vehicle, gearing, intended application etc to come up with an ideal advance curve. The end user is still going to have some legwork. Start reading is all I can say. Plenty of material out there.

Engine timing and advance is an interesting subject, particularly vacuum advance as well, and often or usually misunderstood. If you do this yourself I guarantee you'll understand it extremely well when finished.

 

I'm a good enough DIY mechanic for most things. I've been doing all my own repairs for close to 50 years, but mostly only as needed, not as a built or restoration. I've never felt like I've been good at things like fine tuning a carb, and this sounds like it might fall into that category. However, I'll probably give it a try ( if I ever get to the point where I can fire up my newly rebuilt motor). Thanks for the info.

 

My experience has been if one is reasonably inclined towards technical things one can do an outstanding job, provided - go slow, do the homework first. It will take longer than the pros do. That's why they make the big bucks.

 

I'd consider myself to be in the same boat as you, Unibody62.

I am also wondering where my distributor curve is at and whether or not I can find some driveability improvements with a possible "distributor tune up".

Here is a link to a brief explanation on how to at least baseline your current distributor curve:
Re-curving a distributor - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board

More info:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/03/timing/

I think I'm going to try to follow the instructions to determine my current distributor condition. If/when I do, I'll start a thread to discuss my findings.

BarnieTrk

 

I checked out the Hot Rod Forum link and it has lots of good discussion. That will help out when I try to do it. Thanks!

 

It's not difficult guys, trust me. Tedious, maybe. Well worth it. People spend thousands on carbs and intakes and headers etc, but then leave all kinds of performance on the table by not optimizing the advance. Also improves fuel economy.

If you still plan on hauling heavy loads routinely then these timing changes may not be advised. Also consider the quality of fuel to used, or availability. Lower compression engines can be advanced more than high compression engines without as much issue with substandard fuels.

 

I'm guessing springs, weights and that sort things are readily available at places such as Napa, or would I need to turn to Summit Racing?

 

Depends on the distributor, but yes NAPA has them.

I cheaped out and used a junkbox distributor after an engine rebuild. As inexpensive as a new one was this was false economy. Worn out dizzys are nothing but trouble. Mostly all that is needed would be a spring kit - Mr Gasket 925D

 

thats where i started.. new 4bbl manifold from mummerts and new eddlebrock carb and did nothing to the distributer... however i am think about going to FBO systems all.in.one....

 

A fresh distributor with a good tune should make it a lot more fun.

The FBO seems expensive. You're basically spending about $300 ($499 - ignitor III and coil) for the equivalent of a rebuilt distributor plus a custom curve.

For perspective, the MSD 8383 Ready to run distributor is $438.95 at Summit - you have to tune.

cardone 30-2808 reman distributor $104.97 + the cost of a cap, keep the points or fit whichever electronic conversion you like - you have to tune.

What this boils down to is if you tune it yourself, you stand to save up to about $150.00 and have an equal or better distributor.

 

O.K.
Of all the high performance magazines....old farts giving advice...internet builds/comments/ threads.... the best automotive performance advice I have ever read was in the 1961 Mechanix Illustrated "How to do it Encyclopedia".
It was a philosophy I have never forgotten.
Back in those days people actually fixed stuff. Starters, generators, regulators, plugs, distributors, electric motors and a host of other components were renewed and repaired instead tossed away and swapped out.

Here's what I remember. Keep in mind this is from 1961.

90% of the vehicles on the road are "out of tune", even factory new cars. The factory can not afford to spend the the time to properly tune each car to perfection. They are tuned for general reliability. Owners of these cars neglect maintenance, so many cars never reach the performance potential they are capable of. This is precisely why EFI and computer control was developed.
The first step in any performance modification, is getting the factory engine to run perfectly as designed. This is the baseline. Since many have never experienced what a factory stock car is capable of, this may be as far as the owner needs to go.

We have all heard the stories of the "Little engine that could or did". The old street racer who eats everybody's lunch and after the carnage, pops the hood and there sits a 2bbl and iron manifolds.
This is easier said than done. It's much easier to throw "out of the box" performance parts at an engine to somewhat overcome whats ill tuned. In the end though, the base is still not reaching it's potential. It's just masked with sooty pipes and loud glass packs.

The chapter goes on on about rebuilding an engine. Again it's good to start with factory perfect and factory stock and go from there. It talks about port matching, weighing and balancing rods on a scale, each rod was polished and balanced on a table top scale to the same weight and balance point. Each piston was examined. The block was miked.. if it needed boring it was bored if it was in spec it wasn't. Rotating assembly was balanced by a shop and journals turned if need be. The valve springs were checked and replaced if out of spec. The valve were lapped by hand.. if need be they were renewed or replaced.
A good bit of this was done at the home shop except for the machine work. Folks these days will poo poo the old techniques of lapping valves, polishing rods and port matching. A lot of work for little gain....but think, if done correctly all these little old time steps add up.

I can think of no greater "Hot Rodder" than Vic Eldelbrock. The last of the chapter shows Vic with a little 60 Falcon 144 CID 6 popper all dolled up with a multi carb intake. That's a hot rodder right there! Anybody can get performance out of a 409, 390, 327 ect ect of all those Vic was getting all he could out of a Falcon six.
In closing...choose your stuff wisely. Start with a good base and go from there. The foundation is everything and it must be right for all that follows. It is what is. Part of the fun is getting the best you can get out of a older engine/transmission. Anybody can order a crate motor and stuff big CIDs under the hood and improve performance.

 

How about Karol Miller?

http://yblockguy.com/articles/KarolMillerStory.html

He'd tune up his Y block and drive to Utah from Texas, kick everybody's *** at Bonneville and then drive home. Do it again the next year.

Ted

 

Ted,
I hadn't read that story before...but it was GREAT!

It reminded me of a GREAT 'car guy' movie from 2005.
It was based on a true story: The World's Fastest Indian (2005) - IMDb

Guys,
If you haven't seen it, GO GET IT AND WATCH IT. You won't regret it!

BarnieTrk

 

I hear ya, F-ONE.
Don't just throw $$ at a problem by buying more parts. You may simply enjoy getting the best out of what you have.

I will say I do have respect for the guy who can pay for the newest crate motor or EFI setup that money can buy. I can't do that...but I appreciate seeing it done by those who can.

BarnieTrk

 

To me it's part of the hobby of seeing how things were done with the technology of the day. Making those systems work as well as they ever did. Reading the old manuals. Of course it doesn't make any sense whatsoever at one level. So sue me. A buddy was looking under the hood at my 64, points and says "you need to get rid of that generator".

I do.. Really... Why? "Oh, it's not reliable, alternators are so much better."

No kidding! But it does work. So.. What's the problem again? We'll just drop a 3G right in there and be done with it. Maybe not. When do ya know when to quit?

But wait! Brakes are better today too, better get rid of those fvxking drum brakes. And..no P/S! ... gonna need a Toyota box I guess, and a new column. The motor sure could use an upgrade, and the suspension rides like a coal cart. No A/C either. Might as well go with an A/T too. See where I'm goin'' with that?

Sometimes I don't want or need electric windows, or Onstar, or a bunch of computer controlled gee-gaws. It's all mostly overpriced BS anyway. I'm driving to the river, not the Moon.