When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking for some deep knowledge input. Re Coolant Loss
Not my first rodeo here in regard to Coolant loss but this is different.
154,400 miles. Engine redone early 2011.
Studs, OEM headgaskets, upgraded fan cooler etc see my signature.
Went over a year not bothering to check Coolant level. Before leaving for a 5.5 hour trip towing a 15k 5ver gave everything a once over. Noticed no level in degass bottle.
Took one gallon to fill. Towed up some hills and in 90 degree heat temps touching 220's. Fan kicked in but noticed it was later in the temp range before step up. Normally 210 kick in but now 215 - 218. Looked under hood after arriving and I had some venting. Coolant level a bit low again. Added quart of Coolant.
Temps under normal load are pretty close to being matched up at 190, would like to seeing 195 or a little better. I have changed the thermostat on 3 different occasions due to 170 - 180 temps, unloaded highway speed.
Will be popping EGR valve to check for moisture.
No white exhaust, no sweet smelling exhaust.
Could another crappy thermostat be doing this to me while under load. ( new 5th wheel 3k heavier than last year).
Any other quick checks I can do? Because of what was done to the engine I don't expect EGR cooler or headgaskets issues. Or at least I hope not!
Yup, it has been changed. Once before the engine was redone, then again during the rebuild.
That being said it has been challenged obviously, so I will be changing it again.
I think what is bothering me is how late the fan steps up. What drives the step up? Something is different and I am not sure if the sensor for the fan is separate from the one I monitor on my Edge or the same.
I found when towing up grades, if the temps start to climb, drop the speed to 55 to 60 and manually drop the gear to 3rd while in t/h. The temps would drop quickly since the gears are now doing more work vrs.the engine.
Check the bottom of the degass bottle for a leak. Just went through this no sign except missing coolant. Closer inspection dampness on FICM and white crust buildup on the exhaust manifold. Very small crack in degass bottle. Good luck.
I had a few cracks in my degas bottle that I found as soon as I switched to red coolant! The EGR feed hose was leaking, too. It was the old orange one, not the newer blue one. I have no idea how long they leaked before I switched to red ELC coolant and found the leaks within a couple of days. The bottle cracks were along the bottom of it, so you'd have to get it hot and look from underneath with a light. See if it weeps from cracks.
Do you have the updated degas bottle label (the one that says ignore marks on bottle)? The old "min" line is the new "max" line. Here is one I found on google:
Got home from work this morning at 0715, popped the hood... Coolant level was high, 1/4 above max line (old markings) ugh! Could I have an air pocket? And how would that have developed!? (rhetorical question!)
Friday I will be popping EGR Valve, moisture check, and I think I can get my hands on a pressure test rig to check pressurization of the coolant system at the degass bottle.
Last edited by egregg57; Aug 26, 2015 at 05:39 PM.
Reason: Added info.
No moisture in the cab? I know it was probably the first place you checked, but thought I would ask. Have you tried just changing the whole system to make sure you have the right amount? I mean it takes over 6 gallons of coolant. I drained 5 out of mine and 5 went back in. No air bubbles. If you get your hands on pressure testing equipment try and get a vacuum bleeder as well.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.