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I have a fitting in mine with a shutoff valve so the flow to the heater can be shutoff in the summer months. If you get the same, you can just shut it off until you get your heater installed. If you don't plan to ever get a heater, just thread in a plug and it should be sealed up. I assume the heater hose outlet on the water pump is sealed off already. My system used close to 18 quarts without the heater.
Do you have any pictures of your engine and heater shut-off? I finally got the part today from LMS and am not sure if it is correct, though it could work. Truck Parts and Truck Accessories
What comes off my truck is a metal outlet. The value has one end smooth, the other with male end threads. What comes off the engine block expects female or screw on the male nub? Thanx.
Do you have any pictures of your engine and heater shut-off? I finally got the part today from LMS and am not sure if it is correct, though it could work. Truck Parts and Truck Accessories
What comes off my truck is a metal outlet. The value has one end smooth, the other with male end threads. What comes off the engine block expects female or screw on the male nub? Thanx.
Here is a picture of my motor from last year with the shutoff valve attached. The outlet should be facing up instead of towards the rear of the motor though. You may also notice I didn't have the heater outlet port at water pump blocked off yet in the picture.
nice picture and nice engine, thanx. Your shut off vavle looks like mine (it's right in the block), where do I see the water pump blocked off in the picture? I'm looking at the shop manual and on page 129 discusses water pumps, but as always not picture of the engine. I assume that since they state take off fan belt, fan, and pulley, it's in the front. But I can't tell on your picture.
nice picture and nice engine, thanx. Your shut off vavle looks like mine (it's right in the block), where do I see the water pump blocked off in the picture? I'm looking at the shop manual and on page 129 discusses water pumps, but as always not picture of the engine. I assume that since they state take off fan belt, fan, and pulley, it's in the front. But I can't tell on your picture.
You can see the water pump large main outlet (where you would hook up the lower radiator hose) and the smaller heater outlet (minus the fitting) is right above it and is NOT blocked off in my picture. I later used a pipe plug to close it off until I can hook up my heater. I will then remove my pipe plug and install the nipple for the hose.
You can see the water pump large main outlet (where you would hook up the lower radiator hose) and the smaller heater outlet (minus the fitting) is right above it and is NOT blocked off in my picture. I later used a pipe plug to close it off until I can hook up my heater. I will then remove my pipe plug and install the nipple for the hose.
Well I couldn't get the piece off the engine block. The a$%$ painted it on. I started stripping the nut head. Any good suggestions for getting this off the block so that I can install the new heater shutoff valve?
its probably rust welded since its a water pipe. If it has to come out then I would be careful that you don't crack or damage the head. Probably soak with kroil or pb blaster for a few days and use a little heat before you hit it with a good quality wrench. You don't want to break the threads off either. Those heads are hard to find and expensive, like any 226 or 254 part.
its probably rust welded since its a water pipe. If it has to come out then I would be careful that you don't crack or damage the head. Probably soak with kroil or pb blaster for a few days and use a little heat before you hit it with a good quality wrench. You don't want to break the threads off either. Those heads are hard to find and expensive, like any 226 or 254 part.
Sounds good. Maybe I'll figure out a way to add the shutoff valve to it so that it doesn't have to come off. Or look at what you said to attempt to loosen it cautiously.
It connects inline on the hose. You would add a few inches of hose to the fitting still on the engine and then connect the shutoff valve to the hose. The other nipple on the shutoff then could connect to the heater or just left unconnected if you don't have the heater. Just make sure the valve is in the "off" position. Below is one that is manually controlled.
good idea to avoid removing it from the block. Do you know where this valve can be purchased? I've been buying parts from LMS and Dennis, but I'd like to find stuff local since I can get it faster, cheaper, etc. I'm in Atlanta. Thanx.
good idea to avoid removing it from the block. Do you know where this valve can be purchased? I've been buying parts from LMS and Dennis, but I'd like to find stuff local since I can get it faster, cheaper, etc. I'm in Atlanta. Thanx.
Don't live near Atlanta but the valve is available on Ebay for around $10.00 . Napa locally may also have them.
good idea to avoid removing it from the block. Do you know where this valve can be purchased? I've been buying parts from LMS and Dennis, but I'd like to find stuff local since I can get it faster, cheaper, etc. I'm in Atlanta. Thanx.
Thanx for all the input.
I got the heater hose and using the shutoff value it looks good.
I got a new 12V battery.
I hooked it up (though my new plugs are the wrong size). so using the ones in the engine when bought.
Questions:
1.) It appears my ignition is not wired correctly since all three positions do not affect the ability to press the starter as it turns over on each position.
2.) after pressing the gas peddle down it won't turn over now? It just clicks. once.
3.) It's a 12V system now and I've read that (+) is red (+) and (-) is black (standard not reversed. I assume that is correct. It appeared to be cranking correctly, but I added a gallon of gas also thinking it might be a carbonator issue (it's new).
4.) the gauges might not work but the temp gauge jumped to hot? And I think there is only 12Q in the radiator, so I'll add more later, making sure it is cool.
Thanx for all the input.
I got the heater hose and using the shutoff value it looks good.
I got a new 12V battery.
I hooked it up (though my new plugs are the wrong size). so using the ones in the engine when bought.
Questions:
1.) It appears my ignition is not wired correctly since all three positions do not affect the ability to press the starter as it turns over on each position.
2.) after pressing the gas peddle down it won't turn over now? It just clicks. once.
3.) It's a 12V system now and I've read that (+) is red (+) and (-) is black (standard not reversed. I assume that is correct. It appeared to be cranking correctly, but I added a gallon of gas also thinking it might be a carbonator issue (it's new).
4.) the gauges might not work but the temp gauge jumped to hot? And I think there is only 12Q in the radiator, so I'll add more later, making sure it is cool.
I've disconnected the battery.
Ideas?
1, The starter button is always hot on the 48-50 trucks, it's wired correctly.
2. Sounds like you may have a wire someplace near the throttle linkage grounding out.
4. The default for the temp gauge without power is hot.
09-09-2015, 05:05 PM
