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1948 F-6 Engine question

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  #91  
Old 12-19-2015, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Turn it over with the cap off, see if the rotor is turning.

Has the distributor been out?

when I took the dist cap off I cranked the engine and saw it spinning. And when I pull off a coil plug and place to engine bolt I see a spark on what appears 1/6 of the time. The distributor looks fairly clean (rebuilt?). it a 226 6cyl flathead.
 
  #92  
Old 12-19-2015, 04:48 PM
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Do you have the correct firing order for the plugs? 1-5-3-6-2-4

The distributor rotates CW, as I'm sure you know. And my #1 plug wire is at 12:00 on my distributor.

And if you've already checked all this, forget I'm here...
 
  #93  
Old 12-19-2015, 05:27 PM
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I had the same issue at first. In my case it was a vacuum leak.
Have you performed a compression test?
Have you witnessed the engine running before?
 
  #94  
Old 12-19-2015, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger Joe
Do you have the correct firing order for the plugs? 1-5-3-6-2-4

The distributor rotates CW, as I'm sure you know. And my #1 plug wire is at 12:00 on my distributor.

And if you've already checked all this, forget I'm here...

I have number 1 at 6:00. I thought it was starting there when I took it off. There is a #1 mark on the dist cap. and I was fllowing the firing order on my replacement cables diagram (from LMC truck), but maybe I should check that now.
Thanx.
 
  #95  
Old 12-19-2015, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mixer man
I had the same issue at first. In my case it was a vacuum leak.
Have you performed a compression test?
Have you witnessed the engine running before?

No I haven't witnessed it running.
And how do I test for a leak? The tubes look new, and once I started to turn it over the fuel filter filled right up.
What can I do to validate it, both vacuum and compression?


Thanx.
 
  #96  
Old 12-19-2015, 10:14 PM
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A quick, easy test.....pull the front (#1) spark plug and block the hole with your thumb while a helper turns the motor over with the starter. As soon as your thumb blows off the spark plug hole have your helper stop the starter. Take off the distributor cap and look where the rotor is pointing. The rotor should be near the plug wire going to the #1 cylinder.
 
  #97  
Old 12-19-2015, 10:18 PM
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A compression tester can be purchased and used to determine what your compression is on each cylinder. It's just a gauge with a hose on it that goes in the spark plug hole. A vacuum gauge is also cheap and easy to test.
 
  #98  
Old 12-20-2015, 01:23 AM
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Nice looking engine and engine compartment. Real clean !!
 
  #99  
Old 12-20-2015, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by chrislynn5
No I haven't witnessed it running.
And how do I test for a leak? The tubes look new, and once I started to turn it over the fuel filter filled right up.
What can I do to validate it, both vacuum and compression?


Thanx.
Well, unfortunately the engine must be running to actually test the vacuum, but closely inspect all the hoses for cracks, even if they appear new, and make sure all the hose connections are sound and tight. Check to see that the manifold and carburetor are tight and visually inspect the gasket edges.
For a compression test, remove all the spark plugs and the high tension lead from the coil. Tie the throttle full open and make sure the transmission is in neutral. Install the tester in #1 spark plug hole and crank the engine for four revolutions. Make a note of the pressure gauge results and repeat for the remaining cylinders. The difference in readings between cylinders should not be more than 10 - 12 psig. If there is, instill two squirts of clean engine oil in each cylinder and repeat the test. This will tell you if it is valve/head gasket or piston ring related.


 
  #100  
Old 12-20-2015, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 76-5.0
A quick, easy test.....pull the front (#1) spark plug and block the hole with your thumb while a helper turns the motor over with the starter. As soon as your thumb blows off the spark plug hole have your helper stop the starter. Take off the distributor cap and look where the rotor is pointing. The rotor should be near the plug wire going to the #1 cylinder.
^^^ This is where I'd start. Most of the time when you aren't even getting a pop out of it, yet have spark and fuel (even if just a squirt down the carb), the timing is way off. Real common to be 180 deg off, or a couple of teeth.
 
  #101  
Old 12-20-2015, 06:15 PM
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good news, I took off the dist cap and spun it around to put #1 at 12:00, then reran each coil cable. It then tried to start with a little gas in the carburetor
It was so close but the battery gave out since its been in use trying to start it for some time now, and needs to be recharged.
The bad news is that rain is coming for the next 4 day, then Christmas.
How do you know where to set carb idle screw?
It might be flooded now...
 
  #102  
Old 12-20-2015, 06:27 PM
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If it's the idle mixture screw you are asking about, screw the idle screw in until it seats, then back out one turn.
 
  #103  
Old 12-20-2015, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 76-5.0
If it's the idle mixture screw you are asking about, screw the idle screw in until it seats, then back out one turn.
do you know off hand if that's clockwise or counter? Thanx.
 
  #104  
Old 12-20-2015, 06:53 PM
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It's a regular screw, clockwise is in, counter-clockwise is out. Don't screw it in hard, use your fingers. I've always heard 1-1/2 turns out to start.

If you mean the idle speed screw, look down the carb and screw in the idle speed screw til you see the throttle blade is visibly open. That will let it start at least.

Was the engine at TDC on #1 when you repositioned the distributor?
 
  #105  
Old 12-20-2015, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
It's a regular screw, clockwise is in, counter-clockwise is out. Don't screw it in hard, use your fingers. I've always heard 1-1/2 turns out to start.

If you mean the idle speed screw, look down the carb and screw in the idle speed screw til you see the throttle blade is visibly open. That will let it start at least.

Was the engine at TDC on #1 when you repositioned the distributor?
Thanx, I assumed that but thought it better to ask.
I'm referring to the set screw on the outside of the carb around the bottom facing outward (passenger side).

I didn't check when I put the dist cap back on. I basically took off the cap, reversed it, and put the coil wires back on in the correct firing order.
 


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