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1948 F-6 Engine question

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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 10:33 PM
  #16  
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Ross is right, NAPA can handle a number of standard parts - saving the shipping costs: points, condensors, oil filters, radiator caps...
 
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Old Aug 27, 2015 | 07:45 PM
  #17  
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Well thanks for all the suggestions, the two caps from LMC came in today. One same size, too big. The other, an exact fit! It was smaller, the only thing I do not like is it was made in china and had a Chinese warning on it. But it fits. Part 32-0012. $3.95. 4lbs. This is the flat 6. The catalog said it was the size for the flat 6 226 radiator 1948.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2015 | 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by chrislynn5
Well thanks for all the suggestions, the two caps from LMC came in today. One same size, too big. The other, an exact fit! It was smaller, the only thing I do not like is it was made in china and had a Chinese warning on it. But it fits. Part 32-0012. $3.95. 4lbs. This is the flat 6. The catalog said it was the size for the flat 6 226 radiator 1948.
As JRJ pointed out, you appear to have a replacement radiator. The LMC catalog states that the larger cap is only for the Original radiator, the smaller one is for the replacement (aftermarket) radiator. Glad you finally got one, but if the Chinese part bothers you, take it to NAPA and see if they have a USA made one.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2015 | 01:38 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by harleymsn
As JRJ pointed out, you appear to have a replacement radiator. The LMC catalog states that the larger cap is only for the Original radiator, the smaller one is for the replacement (aftermarket) radiator. Glad you finally got one, but if the Chinese part bothers you, take it to NAPA and see if they have a USA made one.
Well not sure, the LMC catalog shows 1948 6 uses $3.95 cap, and it fits. And it's the same radiator in the picture as my truck.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2015 | 01:49 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by chrislynn5
Well not sure, the LMC catalog shows 1948 6 uses $3.95 cap, and it fits. And it's the same radiator in the picture as my truck.

 
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Old Aug 28, 2015 | 03:38 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by harleymsn
ahh, I see that now. Boy I must have been blind Thanx.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 07:18 PM
  #22  
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The cap works plus the sticker (Chinese) came off, so not too bad.
Another question, I assume this is some sort of coolant overflow tube? Pressure outlet?
I have the flat 6 manual coming but thought I'd ask. Thanx.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 07:44 PM
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in looking at your carb, that looks like the m series 254 carb I have seen in the parts book? What casting numbers Are on the block? 7hA 6010-b or 8mth 6010?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 07:48 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 3twinridges
in looking at your carb, that looks like the m series 254 carb I have seen in the parts book? What casting numbers Are on the block? 7hA 6010-b or 8mth 6010?
I'm not sure I understand. I'm asking about the metal tube that comes out of the engine block. To the left of the carb. I'll have to get the block numbers tomorrow night. Thanx.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 07:50 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by chrislynn5
Another question, I assume this is some sort of coolant overflow tube? Pressure outlet?
I have the flat 6 manual coming but thought I'd ask. Thanx.
Heater hose inlet . . .
 
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 07:53 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Cougar54
Heater hose inlet . . .
ok, so if it's missing should it be plugged or get another heater? If I fill the coolant radiator it will flow out of this area? How do you know if you have 18-20 quarts in the system? Does it require the heater?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 08:00 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by chrislynn5
ok, so if it's missing should it be plugged or get another heater? If I fill the coolant radiator it will flow out of this area? How do you know if you have 18-20 quarts in the system? Does it require the heater?
I have a fitting in mine with a shutoff valve so the flow to the heater can be shutoff in the summer months. If you get the same, you can just shut it off until you get your heater installed. If you don't plan to ever get a heater, just thread in a plug and it should be sealed up. I assume the heater hose outlet on the water pump is sealed off already. My system used close to 18 quarts without the heater.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 08:10 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Cougar54
I have a fitting in mine with a shutoff valve so the flow to the heater can be shutoff in the summer months. If you get the same, you can just shut it off until you get your heater installed. If you don't plan to ever get a heater, just thread in a plug and it should be sealed up. I assume the heater hose outlet on the water pump is sealed off already. My system used close to 18 quarts without the heater.
Thanx great info, before I get my shop manual, where can I check for if the heater hose outlet on the water pump is sealed off already? Do I put something on that too to cap it off before I get a heater?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 08:14 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by chrislynn5
Thanx great info, before I get my shop manual, where can I check for if the heater hose outlet on the water pump is sealed off already? Do I put something on that too to cap it off before I get a heater?
I just removed the nipple and installed a pipe plug into mine. Just look at the pump and see if there are any open ports. If none are present, it must be plugged already.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 08:20 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Cougar54
I just removed the nipple and installed a pipe plug into mine. Just look at the pump and see if there are any open ports. If none are present, it must be plugged already.
will do, not enough time in the day. After work I'll see if I can get to it. I'm trying to get the engine running before I start looking at the brakes.
 
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