Depending on what engine and carb.
Inline Filter?
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Trailering
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Inline Filter?
The problem: I have a 68 F100. It starts fine cold, and runs fine for a while (say 30 minutes.) It begins to sputter a little in 3rd gear. When I stop and start it up 30 minutes later or so, it is nearly impossible to get it to start. The only way I've found is no choke and lots of gas. Then it runs like crap, sputtering in every gear. If I accelerate too fast in each gear it's worse. If I accelerate slowly it's ok. Hills will make it cut out completely depending how steep the hill is.
I thought it was the inline fuel filter, so I got one. The problem is, I don't see an inline fuel filter anywhere. Is this piece necessary? Is it possible someone took it off, and I don't need it?
Does anyone think it's something else other than the inline filter? I thought it might be the fuel pump (or the fuel filter on the fuel pump,) but I just change it last year. Not to say that isn't it, just feel like it's maybe not so likely.
Thanks
I thought it was the inline fuel filter, so I got one. The problem is, I don't see an inline fuel filter anywhere. Is this piece necessary? Is it possible someone took it off, and I don't need it?
Does anyone think it's something else other than the inline filter? I thought it might be the fuel pump (or the fuel filter on the fuel pump,) but I just change it last year. Not to say that isn't it, just feel like it's maybe not so likely.
Thanks
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 7
From: Garland, Tx
I believe these trucks only came stock with the fuel pump canister filter. I added one under the truck between the line from the fuel tank to the hard line that runs along the frame to the fuel pump.
I dont think that is your headache. I would look for vacuum leaks. It really sounds like a carb rebuild kind of weekend.
I dont think that is your headache. I would look for vacuum leaks. It really sounds like a carb rebuild kind of weekend.
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 633
Likes: 42
You're not giving us a whole lot of information but...
Check your carb. There's a small filter there that looks like an in line filter. Depending on what engine and carb.
Your issue sounds more like a distributor, condensor, points or coil issue. A lot of times things will run normal cold and then with heat these areas go on the fritz
Check your carb. There's a small filter there that looks like an in line filter. Depending on what engine and carb.
Your issue sounds more like a distributor, condensor, points or coil issue. A lot of times things will run normal cold and then with heat these areas go on the fritz
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
You're not giving us a whole lot of information but...
Check your carb. There's a small filter there that looks like an in line filter. Depending on what engine and carb.
Your issue sounds more like a distributor, condensor, points or coil issue. A lot of times things will run normal cold and then with heat these areas go on the fritz
Check your carb. There's a small filter there that looks like an in line filter. Depending on what engine and carb.
Your issue sounds more like a distributor, condensor, points or coil issue. A lot of times things will run normal cold and then with heat these areas go on the fritz
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
My truck was doing the very same thing last week. It had nothing to do with fuel. It was a bad (intermittent) condenser in the points distributor.
That condenser was only 5 months old when it went bad.
That condenser was only 5 months old when it went bad.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
I initially thought my engine's stammering and cutting out problems was fuel related. It has a canister filter on top of the fuel pump (inline 240 engine) and a filter at the carburetor like this. (Motorcraft part listed for a '69 F100 W/240 and Carter 1 bbl).
Motorcraft FG14C - Fuel Filter | O'Reilly Auto Parts
As it turned out though, the problem was not fuel related. It was spark related. The engine would run fine when cool but as soon as it warmed up, it began cutting out and missing with an occasional backfire. I took the condenser off and shook it. I could hear the guts flopping around inside. I replaced it with a new condenser and it's back running like it should.
Motorcraft FG14C - Fuel Filter | O'Reilly Auto Parts
As it turned out though, the problem was not fuel related. It was spark related. The engine would run fine when cool but as soon as it warmed up, it began cutting out and missing with an occasional backfire. I took the condenser off and shook it. I could hear the guts flopping around inside. I replaced it with a new condenser and it's back running like it should.
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Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Thanks for all the advice. So, there is a definite change in power when I go up a steep hill. Do you think that would still be the points distributor? I mean, I can get it running, even with a lot of sputtering, until I try a steep hill and it's like all the power is gone. If I've given it enough power on the flat ground to overcome the loss of power on the hill, it will sputter, slow to a snail's pace, but eventually make it up. If I haven't given it enough power, it stalls out completely.
Sorry if that's still not enough info. I can't think of anything else.
Sorry if that's still not enough info. I can't think of anything else.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Thanks for all the advice. So, there is a definite change in power when I go up a steep hill. Do you think that would still be the points distributor? I mean, I can get it running, even with a lot of sputtering, until I try a steep hill and it's like all the power is gone. If I've given it enough power on the flat ground to overcome the loss of power on the hill, it will sputter, slow to a snail's pace, but eventually make it up. If I haven't given it enough power, it stalls out completely.
Sorry if that's still not enough info. I can't think of anything else.
Sorry if that's still not enough info. I can't think of anything else.
I found the problem by putting my timing light on the engine. I started the truck and just watched the light until the engine got up to operating temperature. Up to that point, the light would steadily blink.
Once the engine got up to operating temperature, the light started skipping (not steadily blinking). If I tried to give the engine gas, the spark would drop out more or, it would make the engine go dead.
The internals of the condenser were loose. I could twist the lead around that was sticking out of the condenser (it shouldn't do this). I suspect the ground connection inside to the case was broken loose. As long as the condenser was cool, the ground lead inside the case would make contact and the engine would run. As the engine warmed up, the case expanded and vibration was making the internals bounce around --sometimes making contact to the case, sometimes not.
The cure for my engine problems was a new condenser.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
The electronic drop-in modules are outstanding. But.
Points and condenser work OK, but the modern manufactured exemplars are usually of poor quality and are impossible to use.
NOS points from the 50s and 60s are cheap and plentiful, these are the type to use, if you're gonna run points. Usually they would last 8-10k miles but they did need adjustment now and then, a little cam grease for the rubbing block, etc. i only installed a Pertronix because on a Y block the distributor is at the back of the motor and it's super awkward to work on.
Points and condenser work OK, but the modern manufactured exemplars are usually of poor quality and are impossible to use.
NOS points from the 50s and 60s are cheap and plentiful, these are the type to use, if you're gonna run points. Usually they would last 8-10k miles but they did need adjustment now and then, a little cam grease for the rubbing block, etc. i only installed a Pertronix because on a Y block the distributor is at the back of the motor and it's super awkward to work on.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
This sounds exactly like the problem I was having with the condenser in my truck. (loose innards and poor case contact).
Condenser Failure in Conventional Ignition Systems
Condenser Failure in Conventional Ignition Systems