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Hello,
New to the forum. I have a 199 F250 4-wheel drive with a 6-speed tranny. The tranny is several old but has only around 100k on a rebuild. Three times recently it has stuck in 6th gear (overdrive) and I had to get really rough with the stick to get to come out. Afterwards the stick felt "thick" for a while and eventually everything seems to go back to normal. Not for sure but it may have started after pulling a heavy load, around 16k, which is not unusual for the truck. Other than the times it stuck and shortly after, the tranny seems perfect. Has anyone seen this or can offer advice?
Thanks,
The fluid (Mercon ATF) has been changed regularly at around 50k. This tryanny has only around 100k on a rebuild. Totally stock, no shift kits or additions. No leaks or drips. Drove it for at least two hours today with frequent shifts with no problem.
Was told by a reliable source these transmissions are very tough to repair and is usually better to totally rebuild if I pull it. Does this sound right to you?
Originally Posted by F350-6
First off, when is the last time the fluid was changed and is it full?
Is there any slop in the shifter or a shift kit like a short throw installed?
I've got over 500k on my original ZF-6 and have towed more than 16k more times than I can count. I've never had the problem you're describing.
Chris..how much slop is considered "acceptable" ? I've got about 1" play side/side from center...
You mean while in gear at idle the shifter moves that much? What gear are you checking in? Mine will move some, but I've never bothered do check how much exactly. I would have guessed under an inch off the top of my head.
Originally Posted by dvcochran
Was told by a reliable source these transmissions are very tough to repair and is usually better to totally rebuild if I pull it. Does this sound right to you?
Depending on the repair required, sometimes it does make more sense to rebuild the whole thing. That's just because if the repair requires the transmission to be torn down to a certain point, the additional parts going in don't add a significant amount to the cost compared to what the labor is just tearing it down and putting it back together.
Would you repair just one bad part for $2,000 if an entire rebuild cost $2,300? Especially if you knew that one of the parts you didn't replace could fail next week and cost you another $2,000 just to get it fixed?
OP....how much play in C.P. before resistance? I know, me and chris can voulge to replacing the m/s assy with pre-bled units, just about every 50k. I have one for spare, just in case, and a brand new one in its box, from Advance Auto..p/n pf9021
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