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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Short Bed to Replace Long Bed

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Old Aug 14, 2015 | 09:30 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by AXracer
The F3 had wider fenders...
This isn't true, either. Front fenders on the F1-6 trucks are all the same size and shape, and will interchange, physically. The only difference is the F1 models had a smaller wheel opening. F2-6 fenders are identical.

Rear fenders on the F1 trucks are wider than the rear fenders on the F2-3, to make up for the narrower bed and achieve the same overall width. The rear wheel opening on the F1's are smaller than the F2-3, again to match the fronts.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2015 | 10:46 AM
  #17  
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Thanks for the education. I know very little, other than what I've read about the larger trucks. this topic started out as a question about a supposed 53 F1/F100 (?) with an 8' bed to 6' bed conversion that I was trying to assist with. Now that it has been established that the OP actually has a 51 F3, I will bow out of this discussion before I give any more incorrect info.
To the original poster: Best of luck with your build, I hope to see more of your progress in the future, I will now leave your future questions regarding the 51 F3 for those more familiar with that year and model.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2015 | 01:23 PM
  #18  
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Locally I saw an F3 shortbed. It was finished to be a little ratty, which means it was easy to see the work done

Owner simply pulled the bed sides off, and cut a section out, effectively giving himself a shortbed. Sure, you would need to drill new holes for the fender bolts, but it looked good. It was, IIRC, on an Explorer frame, but shortening the F3 wouldn't be terribly hard. There really isnt much back there.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2015 | 05:44 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by BaggedMerc
Locally I saw an F3 shortbed. It was finished to be a little ratty, which means it was easy to see the work done

Owner simply pulled the bed sides off, and cut a section out, effectively giving himself a shortbed. Sure, you would need to drill new holes for the fender bolts, but it looked good. It was, IIRC, on an Explorer frame, but shortening the F3 wouldn't be terribly hard. There really isnt much back there.
If your suggesting just cutting of the back of the frame, that would not actually work, but if you did do that the rear fenders would extend about 6 to 8 inches behind the bed.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2015 | 09:54 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by harleymsn
If your suggesting just cutting of the back of the frame, that would not actually work, but if you did do that the rear fenders would extend about 6 to 8 inches behind the bed.
I am suggesting cutting the back of the frame. Also sectioning the bed side, and moving the fenders forward. Of course that would mean sectioning the running boards also.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2015 | 10:27 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BaggedMerc
I am suggesting cutting the back of the frame. Also sectioning the bed side, and moving the fenders forward. Of course that would mean sectioning the running boards also.
You can't move the fenders forward without sectioning the frame between the rear axle and the cab. Simply moving the fenders forward will prevent access to the wheels without cutting the outside of the fender all the way back.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2015 | 03:59 AM
  #22  
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AX,,Harlys,
Thanks for great info, I hope to post pics soon.
Nice to know what I'm working with !
 
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 03:18 AM
  #23  
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Gents, been away but back this weekend checked numbers, it's a 51 F3, mfg in Long Beach, CA. It's rough but all there save for air cleaner and small bits.
Drivers door appears to be locked and of course I don't have any keys, psgr door is open, I tried to get door lock cylinder out so I could have key made but am stumped.
I will take the glove box lock to locksmith to see if they can make a door and ign key, did this for my 49 Buick. Any suggestions on how to remove door lock cylinder?
Or how to open locked door with least damage?
Put some Marvel M Oil in cylinders to set before I turn motor over, enjoying this but I sure need that door open!
Thanks
 
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 06:38 AM
  #24  
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tiim,
You can remove the inner door panel and get access to the latch mechanism. Your inner handle needs to be rotated downward in order to unlock the door. It is possible the latch is just seized up from lack of use. A good work light shined in there will reveal the simple rod that opens up the door. Have a good look at the passenger side too that is working so that you can determine how far the rod needs to move in order to spring the catch. You'll have that door open in no time.

My '51 was made at Long Beach too. I'd sure like to know who drove my truck all the way across the country with 4:86 rear gears. Must have been a long trip.
Tom

.
 
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