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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 10:47 PM
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Random questions!

I'm finally getting work done on my 1977 f250 ranger xlt, and I have a few questions on how to do a few things on the truck. The glove box is one of the ones with a key but the previous owner lost the key and it is locked, does anyone know how to get it opened? The second question is does anyone know how to clean all the vents and anywhere that mice can get into and die?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 11:40 PM
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Oy. I think for the glove box you'll have to destroy the cardboard and somehow unscrew the three screws securing the hinge or the two screws securing the receiver latch.

In terms of the vents of the dash, it's just disassembly and reassembly. The cowl vents on the side of the cab can be accessed from up inside the wheel wells. You should know how to clean with soap and water.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 11:44 PM
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From: Isla de Muerta
Regarding the locked glove box...short of paying a locksmith...if your truck has the original "pressed cardboard" type of glove box liner, you might find that it's deteriorated/loose enough to push/slide out of the way in order to get to the lock mechanism.

The lock mech is held into the back of the glove box door by two small Phillips head screws. You "might be" able to sneak a stubby screw driver up there and take the lock out.


Cleaning the vents...the vent doors/louvers will slide out but it's a delicate operation...too much force and they're done..be careful.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 07:07 AM
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Glove box lock have only 3 tumblers and if you have a handful of Ford keys try them, you can usually get one of them to work. Try both sides of each key as the tumblers are only on 1 side. Once you get it open you can get a locksmith to make it work with your key.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 07:41 AM
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Lock smith for the glove box key, cheap quick and easy. Or other wise yes basically tear up your cardboard glove box and then you can get a small flat tip and pop the lock catch piece. I have pic I will post of it later. I doubt you can get to the 2 small screws the hold the lock in place or the lock catch tab??
 
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 08:36 AM
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As for the glove box lock. The latch can be pressed down still, I believe, so no need to get a screw driver in there and remove screws. If you want to try and avoid damage to the glove box lining, IIRC there should be about a 1/2" hole in the driver side of the glove box lining. With a long stiff wire, you should be able to access it from the radio, heater control area and release the latch. I am 99.95% sure the glove box lock will use the round headed key, which is opposite profile as square headed key. On trucks of this era, that is the only thing the round headed key locks, so options are to get a key made, or replace the lock. If it has a code on it, the getting a key made is very simple.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 10:40 AM
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As promised.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 05:02 PM
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Thank you all so much, I only have the square key, and I will check it out i n half an hour, sorry for the late response I ended up helping my friend make straw square bales. Thank you for the pictures!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 06:32 PM
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Would anyone trust a radiator from a place called Shepard auto parts?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 07:26 PM
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Is it online or an actual store?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 1973-79fordf150
Is it online or an actual store?
It's off of amazon.com, if my current radiator isnt going to be worth reparing, then I would get the new radiator.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2015 | 09:34 PM
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Ya I would defiantly get a new one off Amazon if I needed one.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2015 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 1973-79fordf150
Ya I would defiantly get a new one off Amazon if I needed one.
It looks like it is needed, the old radiator looks to be the original brass copper and it has seen better days. So it looks like I will be getting a new radiator!
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 02:08 AM
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did you get the glovebox open?

if youre doing a teardown to rebuild/repaint, you can pull the whole dash to get to the backside of the glovebox if need be:
-between the padded dash and windshield are a row of screws that have to be removed
-have to pull instrument cluster trim and instrument cluster
-have to remove radio and loosen heater controls, heater controls will stay hooked to truck when dash moves
-have to unplug light switch and washer switch, or remove switches
-have to unplug or remove ignition switch
-have to unbolt / undo lower steering column cover(metal are clips, plastic are screwed on)
-have to unplug cig lighter, just reach up in behind(phone recharger power point)
-there is one 1/2" or 9/16" bolt to undo on each side of truck dash
-remove dash
-A/C requires extra step to undo vents from ducting
this is of course the simplified list, each of these steps takes some doing
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by four-sixty-power
did you get the glovebox open?

if youre doing a teardown to rebuild/repaint, you can pull the whole dash to get to the backside of the glovebox if need be:
-between the padded dash and windshield are a row of screws that have to be removed
-have to pull instrument cluster trim and instrument cluster
-have to remove radio and loosen heater controls, heater controls will stay hooked to truck when dash moves
-have to unplug light switch and washer switch, or remove switches
-have to unplug or remove ignition switch
-have to unbolt / undo lower steering column cover(metal are clips, plastic are screwed on)
-have to unplug cig lighter, just reach up in behind(phone recharger power point)
-there is one 1/2" or 9/16" bolt to undo on each side of truck dash
-remove dash
-A/C requires extra step to undo vents from ducting
this is of course the simplified list, each of these steps takes some doing
Great information! Actually something I was looking for! I haven't had time to get my glovebox open yet to much work. I should be able to get it open this weekend! Hopefully everything comes off without any issues!
 
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