I found a 2004 Crown Vic police interceptor for $300 for the whole car. So I am now looking at installing the 4.6l and the trans from the crown Vic. I saw some older threads where people had started this swap, but none that were complete. If anyone has finished, or close to, I would love to hear about any issues I should be aware of, so I can plan ahead. Thanks for any and all help
Phillip

 

good to get the entire car, but if the CV has an automatic tranny, You will need separate aftermarket or reprogrammed engine control ECU and weeded wiring harness plus a stand alone tranny controller. I don't know what front suspension steering you are planning to use (Hopefully NOT the CV!) but sourcing headers that fit may be an issue. Gary is having to have a driver's side header custom made for his 2007 4.6 3V we are installing in his F1 with dropped beam axle and Toyota PS box. We also had to move the engine 1.25" to the pass side for header clearance. Pass side will use out of the box Sanderson header with rear exit. There is a reason not many have finished this swap yet, it ain't easy, quick or cheap, there is very little aftermarket support for the FoMoCo mod motors since they decided to make so many non-compatable variants!

 

Thanks Ax. I kind of figured that it wasn't easy that's the story of my life. My plan is to run the stock front end, disk brakes and Toyota power steering.

 

I really think it will be a nice swap when we are finally finished with it. We struggled with the header issue for quite some time trying to find something off the shelf that would work with the engine centered. Once we decided the engine had to be offset for clearance, Gary built a prototype header out of PVC that he will be sending to Sanderson to fab. We have spent the last two weekends designing and fabbing custom motor mounts. We should be able to complete them next weekend, reinstall the engine, verify the ptototype header fit and measure for the tranny mount. Gary decided to go with the FR stand alone ecu and engine harness, 3650 5 speed manual tranny from the same Mustang GT the engine came out of. The tranny is going to require a custom made shifter mount.
Classic haulers and Mid Fifty "lost" the guy that was building their Toy SB adapter mounts, so we also had to build our own mount from an alternate design I did a couple years ago. If you have to pay >150 for a used Toy box, you will be money and time ahead buying the all new PS box with built in mount made by CPP and also distributed by CH and MF. DON'T buy one of the highly overpriced (>300.00!) "rebuilt" Toy boxes being offered from various sources.

 

Why would he need a stand alone controller for the trans?

 

I don't think the police versions had PATS so that a big plus for you but even if it does you can have a tune turn it off. Your ECU should control your trans and engine fine. Buy a EVTM manual and plan out what you want the computer to run and what you want on its own.

 

Maybe it's the differences in years, Pats? The Pats can't be turned off on the OEM 07 3V ECU according to Gary's research (I'm going by what he told me, I did not do the research), so he went with the FR stand alone ecu which will not control an auto, so it was buy a separate additional tranny controller and try to get them to interface or go with the manual tranny. Gary decided on the manual tranny.

 

I think the 3Vs are in the same boat as the coyote guys as the PATS is more than just turning it off in the tune although my buddy said HP tuners as of a week or so ago can now disable PATS in the newer fords so a junkyard coyote 6r80 swap is possible .

 

From what I have found, no pats on the interceptors. So that's a plus.

 

Yes FWIU much of the PATS is now hardwired into the car/ecu, cannot be turned off by reprogramming, chip change or bypassed.

 

I'd suspect it is being mandated by feds, lobbied ($$$) by insurance cos to reduce auto theft.

 

Ax, what steering column did you use on that build?

 

The PI Crown Vic shouldnt have PATS so you're good there. The newer S197 and S550 (2005 and newer Mustangs) have a different style ECU and require the Ford Racing standalone kit or something similar.

As for the engine, the SOHC 4.6Ls are good engines and will be plenty of power for the F1. If you want to do some upgrades, they are pretty cheap. Cams for the SOHC can be had for less than $500 (used in good shape) whereas a 4.6L DOHC is closer to $1000 (usually 1500-1800 new).

As for the transmission, the ECU should be able to control the trans with no issues.

The wiring harness is the biggest win on that deal of a doner car. The harness will be a ton of work but it is doable. I recommend sourcing some vehicle schematics (entire vehicle) and fit it to the truck with as little molestation as possible to test fire the truck. You can then systematically remove each unused sensor/connector/pigtail and route wires as desired. This will ensure that you dont completely strip the harness down from the get go, route it where you want it, loom and tape it all up then find out you need to go back and add certain things you shouldnt have removed. Things happen and its an easy mistake to make.

You will need different motor mounts (I think Tinman fabrication and TCI make a kit for about $200) you will also need a different trans crossmember. That can run anywhere from free (with fabwork) to $150. I used Speedway motors universal 6" drop on my 4.6L DOHC/Tremec T3650 swap and it cost about $80 or so shipped. You do need to cut and weld the ends to fit the frame.

As for the IFS, if you are deadset on sticking with stock and adding a toyota PS unit you are good. If you want to use the CV IFS there is a bit of work ahead of you. The cradle/rack/suspension components are worth about $300 and are more desirable but the F100 guys due to wider frames and bigger fenders.

There are quite a few here who have narrowed a CV cradle tho. I narrowed mine so i was only in for the $225 original cost and welding supplies. If you are paying someone to narrow it, go with a MII setup for ease and wheel selection. If I had to do it over I'd be up in the air because they both have their benefits.

 

Thanks everyone for the info. Please keep the tips coming, this is the first time I am attempting anything near this complex of an engine swap. So the more info I can get, the better off I will be. I am sure I will annoy the crap out of you all with questions before this is over.
Phillip

 

On Gary's truck, haven't got to the column yet, but he will likely go with an Ididit or Flaming river. On my own truck with Toy box I used an Ididit paintable tilt column for floor shift. I have a T-56 6 speed in my truck. I'd suggest waiting on the column until you have the box mounted and seating worked out, then decide on steering wheel (I went with a Grant 15" banjo) so you can then decide on column length, dash drop. Gary used a piece of PVC pipe that slipped over the input shaft of the box as a dummy column to find the box mount angle for my mount design.
We are finishing up the mounts this weekend (hopefully) and will post pix. We are using the OEM aluminum mounts on the engine with custom fabbed frame mounts that bolt to the frame. Because of the engine offset for header clearance none of the aftermarket mounts would have worked. My mount design would work for a centered engine, but I wouldn't mount the enine until you have the headers worked out. You may be able to use the CV 2V headers. The OEM Mustang headers that came with Gary's engine exited directly into the steering column, so were not useable. The 3V heads use a unique port shape config/bolt pattern so no other application headers fit. Ford makes it SOOO easy! (Had we used a GM LS engine we'd have be done a while ago!)