Wrong compressor wheel!?!!
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Stafford, VA
Wrong compressor wheel!?!!
After calling one of the bigger websites to confirm I was getting the right compressor wheel. I am seriously bummed to be finding out that I did not get the right wheel! This is after getting up at 7 to do my uppipe rebuild and tear down the turbo, as well as add some plenum supports and an EGT sensor. WTF!!!!!!!! I now have an open package Wicked Wheel 2 (3866)which has been threaded on to my turbo but never started, and a truck that will not get me to work on Monday. First off, what wants a discount on a compressor wheel? Secondly, who/where can I go for the RIGHT turbo on a stock housing. Looking to improve performance but I'm not going crazy.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
So did you order the WW2 or stock wheel? They will both work. WW2 should give you better response with higher boost. At least that's what PHP video says. You are talking about Bob's wheel correct? Try ford or NAPA for the stock wheel and see what happens.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Stafford, VA
Yeah, it's the WW2 for the larger turbo body. Disappointing because I had the rep o. The phone walking me through the site when I put it in the basket. I'm ready to take a $30-40 lesson on it, I just want to be back on the road!
On the bright side, between the cursing, bloodshed, and dehydration, I found multiple boost leaks as well as a surplus of oil from the pedestal gaskets. I'm looking forward to having full power as I've had this thing for 200 miles at less than 10psi.
Any other thoughts on good wheels since I need a new one still?
On the bright side, between the cursing, bloodshed, and dehydration, I found multiple boost leaks as well as a surplus of oil from the pedestal gaskets. I'm looking forward to having full power as I've had this thing for 200 miles at less than 10psi.
Any other thoughts on good wheels since I need a new one still?
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 914
Likes: 4
Get the correct WW2. It will make a noticeable difference even on an otherwise totally stock truck.
If you have to have something RIGHT NOW, then this is close to the location you listed in your profile:
2002 7.3 ford desiel Turbo Garrett p/n 1831383C93
If you have to have something RIGHT NOW, then this is close to the location you listed in your profile:
2002 7.3 ford desiel Turbo Garrett p/n 1831383C93
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 914
Likes: 4
This is the correct part# WW2 for your '00 Excursion 7.3L
http://www.dieselsite.com/ww2_gtp38.aspx
http://www.dieselsite.com/ww2_gtp38.aspx
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 58
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From: Stafford, VA
Thanks guys. I'll order the right one Monday. Depending on the company (wasn't Dieselsite), I'll probably take my business to them and leave the other one for good. I guess I'm lucky that the truck I'm replacing is about to be sold but still in my possession.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 914
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I recently installed a WW2 when I rebuilt my turbo. While I later discovered I had other serious issues (injector o-rings, at least), even with a "wounded" truck, I could immediately feel the difference vs the stock wheel.
You may want to also order the BRV+ boost relief valve, to prevent setting an overboost code/CEL, especially if you have any tuning in the truck, or are planning on it. I wasn't able to set the CEL in my stock tune, but turning up my DP chip to just the 80hp econo, I could set an "overboost" code pretty much at will, even with a truck not at 100%. Of course, I also tightened down/ shortened my waste gate control rod at the same time.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 58
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From: Stafford, VA
Definitely putting on a new waste gate, I've got the turbo master wasting to be installed. I managed to finish just about everything short of the turbo install and will just need to tighten my up pipes when the wheel arrives. I managed to pull the doghouse and find a crushed gasket that has been in place for who knows how long!? Oil everywhere underneath and a thick protective layer over the cover. That'll be modded since it's apart and I have the time. May as well knock it all out at once!
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 58
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From: Stafford, VA
A quick follow up, I called up the company and they were able to make things right. A new wheel is on the way and I was happy enough with the exchange that I went ahead and ordered my new exhaust to say thanks for the great customer service. Hoping to be wrapped up in the next few days now...
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
Glad to hear you got things worked out. I just put in Riffraff's billet 4/4 wheel and the Turbomaster wastegate controller this past weekend. No more compressor stall and with the initial Turbomaster setting (2" spring length) I went from 16psi in stock tune to 21psi (and even higher with any tune selected) and a noticeably quicker spool up too.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
With the turbo out I dusted off my "when I finally take the turbo off" project box including IH up-pipes, MBRP turbo-back exhaust, new fuel bowl, new fuel lines to the heads, Riffraff check valve delete, Riffraff high flow banjo bolts, turbo rebuild, Riffraff's 4/4 billet compressor wheel, EBPV delete (Garrett non-EBPV outlet and non-EBPV pedestal), Turbomaster wastegate controller, and a laundry list of Viton O-rings to (hopefully) stop some of the leaks I've got. The truck has never run stronger. It's only been just over a week since I got everything back together but my Torque gages are telling me that boost peaks are way up in stock and all tunes, it spools MUCH quicker (and is louder...but that's with my ears), and my instantaneous MPG gage is reading 4-5mpg higher on the freeway. I will attribute that increase to new tires as well. I had one of my mud tires separate on the freeway last week and just put on all-terrains instead (ending my 6 years of mudders) and just by driving I can tell that the ATs are lighter and have lower rolling resistance.