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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Funny running 7.3l

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Old Aug 1, 2015 | 09:47 PM
  #16  
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Injector orings are no biggie. Do all 8 tho!
 
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 04:23 PM
  #17  
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Thank you guys for all your help. I only drive the truck occasionally and don't have enough down time in my life right now to tear it down right now. I hope you all will bear with me and give me any information I might need when it cooler weather gets here and I have more time. Thanks again.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 05:29 PM
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Wire the EBV open . HP Oil leaks ( O rings , poppets Ect ) don't get better when the oil is warm . Baro sensor , map sensor , map sensor hose are a few other things to check
 
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 10:31 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Action4478
Wire the EBV open . HP Oil leaks ( O rings , poppets Ect ) don't get better when the oil is warm . Baro sensor , map sensor , map sensor hose are a few other things to check
OK those are a few things I can make time to check now but what is the baro sensor and where is it located and how do I check that and how to check the map. Just a thought but how is it not reasonable to think that the o rings couldn't or wouldn't swell when hot. If I'm wrong in my thinking I just want to understand it better. Thanks
 
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 02:49 PM
  #20  
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Curious if they are your factory injectors. 220 isn't bad for a set, the highest mileage I have personally seen were 260 ADs with the original orings, they were starting to stick on cold mornings. Others claim they have made well over 300 on a set if properly maintained. Either way, pop your valve covers and see.

In order to change the orings you can address your glow plugs at the same time. Get both from RIFFRAFF DIESEL if you do plan to do so, best prices anywhere. Do all 8!
 
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 06:27 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Waspsmitty
Just a thought but how is it not reasonable to think that the o rings couldn't or wouldn't swell when hot. If I'm wrong in my thinking I just want to understand it better. Thanks
The O rings don't swell ( they are usually broken to some degree )& the oil thins as it warms up .
 
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 07:53 AM
  #22  
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I see said the blind man. I see what you saying and I feel with that new knowledge I must agree with you. My original theory on this matter was the hpop because as you said the oil thins out and therefore would be easier to pump (and with that theory I still may be showing my ignorance) it was just a thought. Btw Can any one explain to me the purpose of the exaust back pressure valve on the turbo.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 08:06 AM
  #23  
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Its designed to speed warm up .
 
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 09:39 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Action4478
Its designed to speed warm up .
I always thought this was funny considering I have yet to see a 7.3 powered school bus that does not have a deleted pedestal and BV direct from the factory. Curious to what their thought process was on that.... I deleted mine a while back, truck blew as much white with or without it.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 12:59 PM
  #25  
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Ok so I should start with wiring the EBV open then? You deleted you EBV? Is that a kit or as simple as just taking it out.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 05:54 PM
  #26  
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Mine has been wired open since I bought the truck in 06
 
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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 12:29 PM
  #27  
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I'm one of the few that will never delete or disable the EBP. I deal with much colder temps than most of you do though. I have been in a situation more than once that even with the rad blocked off and EBV closed I had to idle it up to 1800 to maintain any temp at all, and it was only enough to push lukewarm air at that, driving even took a while to get me back to temp. My 00 F250 was the worst of the lot for it, likely thanks to the I/C dropping cylinder temps even more. -40 is a cruel mistress.
School busses up here DID have EBP valves.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 08:35 AM
  #28  
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You can get what you need from riffraff, you get a blank pedestal and the high flow outlet
 
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