87 E350 PS Gear Box Install
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From: Isanti, MN
It is not centering on its own.
When I make a turn it seems like it is sticking.
I sent it to the alignment shop and was told toe is a little off spec because there is no adjusting sleeve on the passenger side.
It drove a bit better But was still not returning to center.
A couple of hours ago, I loosened the gearbox adjusting nut about 1/4 turn. Now it returns to center when making left turns only, but it is very weak coming back.
When making a right it doesn't return at all.
Can over torqued crown nuts on the steering linkage cause this?
When I make a turn it seems like it is sticking.
I sent it to the alignment shop and was told toe is a little off spec because there is no adjusting sleeve on the passenger side.
It drove a bit better But was still not returning to center.
A couple of hours ago, I loosened the gearbox adjusting nut about 1/4 turn. Now it returns to center when making left turns only, but it is very weak coming back.
When making a right it doesn't return at all.
Can over torqued crown nuts on the steering linkage cause this?
Not returning to center can be caused by a variety of things, most commonly a frozen balljoint or tie rod end. But if none of those were touched and it was returning properly before the gear is a likely suspect.
Originally Posted by kennyfsj80
I'm leaning towards bad gearbox.
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Building on Tom's comments regarding torque wrenches especially as they relate to adjusting steering box gear lash...........
There is an established method which requires a dial-type torque wrench reading in inch-pounds, max of 30 or so. Here's a link better detailing this process or procedure: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...one-right.html
Taking a seat-of-the-pants approach or guessing how much to turn the adjusting screw isn't advisable. As can be seen in that recommended procedure it involves equipment most don't have and won't invest in, seemingly preferring to wing it and "hope" for the best.
I'm also in full agreement steering that sticks or doesn't return-to-center tends to be caused by parts other than the steering box alone. For me I've yet to replace any single worn part of my steering opting instead to replace it all and start from a known point where everything is working as it should.
There is an established method which requires a dial-type torque wrench reading in inch-pounds, max of 30 or so. Here's a link better detailing this process or procedure: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...one-right.html
Taking a seat-of-the-pants approach or guessing how much to turn the adjusting screw isn't advisable. As can be seen in that recommended procedure it involves equipment most don't have and won't invest in, seemingly preferring to wing it and "hope" for the best.
I'm also in full agreement steering that sticks or doesn't return-to-center tends to be caused by parts other than the steering box alone. For me I've yet to replace any single worn part of my steering opting instead to replace it all and start from a known point where everything is working as it should.
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From: Isanti, MN
I'm also in full agreement steering that sticks or doesn't return-to-center tends to be caused by parts other than the steering box alone. For me I've yet to replace any single worn part of my steering opting instead to replace it all and start from a known point where everything is working as it should.
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Don't offer a free lifetime nothing if not willing to wear yourself out keeping up with the demand!
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Not likely, did you not use a torque wrench? No chance I would ever attempt a steering or suspension repair without one. I don't think that would cause sticking, but I would recommend getting a proper torque wrench and do it right. Over- or under-torquing these fasteners can kill someone.
Not returning to center can be caused by a variety of things, most commonly a frozen balljoint or tie rod end. But if none of those were touched and it was returning properly before the gear is a likely suspect.
Which is unfortunate, because messing with the adjusting screw voids the warranty on all the steering gears I've purchased. Hopefully that's not the case with the one you bought, but you may be paying for its replacement.
Not returning to center can be caused by a variety of things, most commonly a frozen balljoint or tie rod end. But if none of those were touched and it was returning properly before the gear is a likely suspect.
Which is unfortunate, because messing with the adjusting screw voids the warranty on all the steering gears I've purchased. Hopefully that's not the case with the one you bought, but you may be paying for its replacement.
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I called the supplier.
They told me to adjust the gear box. So I loosened it a 1/4 turn.
Wheel returns a quarter of the way back now.
Going to return it. They said it doesn't cancel the warranty. I have no confidence in what they ship out.
Going to try a Red Head...
They told me to adjust the gear box. So I loosened it a 1/4 turn.
Wheel returns a quarter of the way back now.
Going to return it. They said it doesn't cancel the warranty. I have no confidence in what they ship out.
Going to try a Red Head...
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From: Isanti, MN
Glad to hear they're standing behind it even if it's not the best rebuild. I had a Red Head in my Excursion that I liked, but in hindsight it was probably not worth what they charged for it. I've seen a few folks over the last couple of years who have had defective units from Red Head.
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
I also looked at Red Head but they weren't the most well stocked up on E-Series boxes, lead time was a bit more than my patience would allow. Add in a cost exceeding $400 not including core, shipping ad infinitum it was almost out of the budget even though I have no real limits for good parts.
I opted for the Ford reman'd unit----it's been flawless and was available same day through my local dealer. It was about $258 plus $225 core.
I opted for the Ford reman'd unit----it's been flawless and was available same day through my local dealer. It was about $258 plus $225 core.
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