Manual door sticks
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 427
Likes: 4
Manual door sticks
Hi,
While I am waiting on balljoints so I can finish my front end rebuild, I lubricated all of the door hinges and latches with white lithium grease. Made a Big difference especially on the rear cargo doors. Also replaced a missing rear plastic clip on the rear doors.
This is the final issue I am having with the doors. The driver side window sticks. This is a base model work van. Only wire going through the door jamb is for the speaker.
My first though is lube the track and cable, so I did. It did not make much of an improvement, besides operating quieter. here is the real strange thing, it works great going down, and works great most of the way back up. The last 6 inches or so going up are a real pain! Almost feels like you are about to strip the splines on the crank.
Is there any body with experience out there with these units? appears to be riveted in place, if I go through the trouble of pulling it, I might as well spend $35 and replace it and be done. let me know what you think.
Thanks
While I am waiting on balljoints so I can finish my front end rebuild, I lubricated all of the door hinges and latches with white lithium grease. Made a Big difference especially on the rear cargo doors. Also replaced a missing rear plastic clip on the rear doors.
This is the final issue I am having with the doors. The driver side window sticks. This is a base model work van. Only wire going through the door jamb is for the speaker.
My first though is lube the track and cable, so I did. It did not make much of an improvement, besides operating quieter. here is the real strange thing, it works great going down, and works great most of the way back up. The last 6 inches or so going up are a real pain! Almost feels like you are about to strip the splines on the crank.
Is there any body with experience out there with these units? appears to be riveted in place, if I go through the trouble of pulling it, I might as well spend $35 and replace it and be done. let me know what you think.
Thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Fairly sure this same topic was also a question some time ago by you?
Being in the glass biz I'd guess the entire regulator mechanism---which is cable driven---is beginning to bind causing your condition.
Yes regulators are riveted to the door shell so they would need to be removed before the mechanism can be extracted. There are also two rivets holding the glass itself to the regulator, also needing to be removed. Glass can and should remain in the door shell, held in place all the way up in order to give more working room and not break the glass.
HTH
Being in the glass biz I'd guess the entire regulator mechanism---which is cable driven---is beginning to bind causing your condition.
Yes regulators are riveted to the door shell so they would need to be removed before the mechanism can be extracted. There are also two rivets holding the glass itself to the regulator, also needing to be removed. Glass can and should remain in the door shell, held in place all the way up in order to give more working room and not break the glass.
HTH
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 427
Likes: 4
Fairly sure this same topic was also a question some time ago by you?
Being in the glass biz I'd guess the entire regulator mechanism---which is cable driven---is beginning to bind causing your condition.
Yes regulators are riveted to the door shell so they would need to be removed before the mechanism can be extracted. There are also two rivets holding the glass itself to the regulator, also needing to be removed. Glass can and should remain in the door shell, held in place all the way up in order to give more working room and not break the glass.
HTH
Being in the glass biz I'd guess the entire regulator mechanism---which is cable driven---is beginning to bind causing your condition.
Yes regulators are riveted to the door shell so they would need to be removed before the mechanism can be extracted. There are also two rivets holding the glass itself to the regulator, also needing to be removed. Glass can and should remain in the door shell, held in place all the way up in order to give more working room and not break the glass.
HTH
Are you supposed to rivet in the new one? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=569&jpid=3
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