Acceleration Slowness
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
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Acceleration Slowness
Hey all, back again for some possible help.
So still working slowly on fixin my truck up to run perfect, 95 F150 5.0 302;
This isn't a huge issue but wondering if it could be fixed and how, When i step on the pedal all the way down to the floor ( say im getting on the interstate or something ) it takes a good 3-6 seconds for the truck to actually read or realize that the pedal is all the way down and for it to speed up fast as it should. Now if im at a complete stop and i only push the pedal down say a 1/4 - 1/2 the way down its normal and will take off like it should, but anytime i try and put it all the way down it takes a few seconds to actually take off how it should, it just slowly climbs in speed. Is this normal for these trucks? Or should it actually take off when i push the pedal down like any normal ( newer truck ) would. RPMs are normal regardless of anything, tranny doesn't ever slip and goes through gears nicely so i know thats not an issue. Plugs i replaced a good 10k-12k miles ago with the motorcraft ones recommended that came default gaped for my specs, plugs are still OEM and looked ok....Any ideas?
So still working slowly on fixin my truck up to run perfect, 95 F150 5.0 302;
This isn't a huge issue but wondering if it could be fixed and how, When i step on the pedal all the way down to the floor ( say im getting on the interstate or something ) it takes a good 3-6 seconds for the truck to actually read or realize that the pedal is all the way down and for it to speed up fast as it should. Now if im at a complete stop and i only push the pedal down say a 1/4 - 1/2 the way down its normal and will take off like it should, but anytime i try and put it all the way down it takes a few seconds to actually take off how it should, it just slowly climbs in speed. Is this normal for these trucks? Or should it actually take off when i push the pedal down like any normal ( newer truck ) would. RPMs are normal regardless of anything, tranny doesn't ever slip and goes through gears nicely so i know thats not an issue. Plugs i replaced a good 10k-12k miles ago with the motorcraft ones recommended that came default gaped for my specs, plugs are still OEM and looked ok....Any ideas?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Gonna need a lot more info about your truck
Any codes?
What axle gear does it have?
What size tires does it have?
When was the last tunup?
What is the base timing set at?
What is fuel pressure?
Any codes?
What axle gear does it have?
What size tires does it have?
When was the last tunup?
What is the base timing set at?
What is fuel pressure?
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
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Not sure the axle gear, running stock tires ( 235/75/R15 ) Tuneup as in basic stuff? few weeks ago. Havent touched the timing or fuel pressure yet. Never had to do anything with timing so ive just left it. fuel pressure i dont have a gauge at the minute, will have to rent one...hopefully
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 648
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From: St Charles Missouri
Not sure the axle gear, running stock tires ( 235/75/R15 ) Tuneup as in basic stuff? few weeks ago. Havent touched the timing or fuel pressure yet. Never had to do anything with timing so ive just left it. fuel pressure i dont have a gauge at the minute, will have to rent one...hopefully
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Find the axle code on the drivers door pillar and post it.
Timing and fuel pressure will have a large effect on engine power so borrow some tools and check those things out.
Base timing should be 10deg before TDC with the spout plug removed to disable computer advance.
Fuel pressure should be 32-35psi at idle and should jump to 39-45psi when vacuum is removed from the regulator.
Timing and fuel pressure will have a large effect on engine power so borrow some tools and check those things out.
Base timing should be 10deg before TDC with the spout plug removed to disable computer advance.
Fuel pressure should be 32-35psi at idle and should jump to 39-45psi when vacuum is removed from the regulator.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
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Alright so to start off first, no i have yet to change the fuel filter since i got the truck( about 8 mo ago ) im not sure how often they need to be changed but im sure it wont hurt to do. Axle code is " 18 " which would be 3.08 Non-LS. Im still learning all about trucks and how everything works as i rebuilt part by part, ive had to replace and fix quite a bit on this truck so far so bare with me as im still new. Fuel pressure i can check either tomorrow or sunday when i can go rent a gauge, timing im not sure how to exactly check or how all that works, so some research is needed for that. I do have a Haynes online manual i can look into and see if its got the steps on there....Thanks for the help so far
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,877
Likes: 49
From: Tennessee
Change the fuel filter ... Check for codes .
MAF truck ... Clean Mass Air Flow sensor .
Double check the timing . Pull the PIP plug , and set to spec .
If it runs like crud set to spec , you have more issues .
Best of luck !
MAF truck ... Clean Mass Air Flow sensor .
Double check the timing . Pull the PIP plug , and set to spec .
If it runs like crud set to spec , you have more issues .
Best of luck !
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Senior User
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Will do, I just ordered a code reader today that will be here next week sometime. As soon as that comes i will get the fuel filter changed and hope that the ff fixes everything( doubt it ) and btw the MAF has already been cleaned. Appreciate all the help
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Sorry to hear that, this is the main reason your truck is such a slug.. these 5.0 trucks should have come with 3.73 gears minimum.. I don't know what Ford was thinking.
As for checking the timing, get a timing light and connect it to the battery and the #1 plug wire(passengers side front), start the engine and let it settle down into a steady idle. Then find the spout plug in the TFI(ignition module) harness over on the drivers side fender near the hinge and pull it out.. it's a little grey plug. Now point the timing light at the crank balancer where the timing pointer is and read the value. Note you may have to clean the timing marks on the balancer first and apply some chalk or some such to make them easier to see. To adjust the timing loosen the retaining bolt on the distributor and turn it slightly while observing the timing on the crank balancer, set it at where you want, tighten the bolt again and reinstall the spout plug.
As for checking the timing, get a timing light and connect it to the battery and the #1 plug wire(passengers side front), start the engine and let it settle down into a steady idle. Then find the spout plug in the TFI(ignition module) harness over on the drivers side fender near the hinge and pull it out.. it's a little grey plug. Now point the timing light at the crank balancer where the timing pointer is and read the value. Note you may have to clean the timing marks on the balancer first and apply some chalk or some such to make them easier to see. To adjust the timing loosen the retaining bolt on the distributor and turn it slightly while observing the timing on the crank balancer, set it at where you want, tighten the bolt again and reinstall the spout plug.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
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Sorry to hear that, this is the main reason your truck is such a slug.. these 5.0 trucks should have come with 3.73 gears minimum.. I don't know what Ford was thinking.
As for checking the timing, get a timing light and connect it to the battery and the #1 plug wire(passengers side front), start the engine and let it settle down into a steady idle. Then find the spout plug in the TFI(ignition module) harness over on the drivers side fender near the hinge and pull it out.. it's a little grey plug. Now point the timing light at the crank balancer where the timing pointer is and read the value. Note you may have to clean the timing marks on the balancer first and apply some chalk or some such to make them easier to see. To adjust the timing loosen the retaining bolt on the distributor and turn it slightly while observing the timing on the crank balancer, set it at where you want, tighten the bolt again and reinstall the spout plug.
As for checking the timing, get a timing light and connect it to the battery and the #1 plug wire(passengers side front), start the engine and let it settle down into a steady idle. Then find the spout plug in the TFI(ignition module) harness over on the drivers side fender near the hinge and pull it out.. it's a little grey plug. Now point the timing light at the crank balancer where the timing pointer is and read the value. Note you may have to clean the timing marks on the balancer first and apply some chalk or some such to make them easier to see. To adjust the timing loosen the retaining bolt on the distributor and turn it slightly while observing the timing on the crank balancer, set it at where you want, tighten the bolt again and reinstall the spout plug.
and for timing as soon as my reader comes in i will be doing timing, fuel pressure, and filter all at once. take care of all the issues on the same day to save some trips
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
Likes: 1,753
From: Kentucky
The reason for the elevated price tag is once you get into the axle you might as well start changing bearings and seals. Then there is the labor time. It takes some time to do even in a shop.
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Senior User
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It's not an easy task to do. A few specialized tools and a lot of research then you can tackle it yourself. Otherwise it's ~$1000 per axle to have someone else do it.
The reason for the elevated price tag is once you get into the axle you might as well start changing bearings and seals. Then there is the labor time. It takes some time to do even in a shop.
The reason for the elevated price tag is once you get into the axle you might as well start changing bearings and seals. Then there is the labor time. It takes some time to do even in a shop.