I'm working on upgrading my newly purchased and somewhat stock Excursion and need the wisdom of the forums. I've already purchased an Edge CTS monitor and will be installing my EGT sensor shortly. I have also ordered the parts to do the 6637 air intake mod and intend to install a TS Performance chip shortly. When first installed the Edge monitor, I noticed that my turbo doesn't pass 7psi when I'm getting on it (unloaded), and it takes some time before I even see just a few pounds of boost. I'm still learning about diesel but understand unloaded it just won't work enough to pull much boost; hopefully my current situation isn't the sign of a worn bearing, etc.

On the back end, 3.5" and 4" pipes are not hugely different. I'm looking at the Walker 21470 muffler to open up the exhaust and some say it is nearly the same as putting the 4" exhaust on. I'll be towing a light load at 6k lbs through the hills of PA and VA a few times a month and hope to just have a little bit better performance and economy.

Should I get the cool looking MBRP exhaust, or save the $400 and stick with the muffler? Thanks in advance for any insight and lessons learned.

-Mike

 

Hi Mike, I've gone through what you're considering and my feedback is to stick with stock until you're ready for the 4". I had the 21470 installed and after awhile I decided to get the 4" and while there is a large size increase in the down pipe and mandrel bends, I noticed no significant power gains. The sound was better (Flo-Pro with muffler) than the 21470 and I ASSume better EGT although I don't have a gauge yet. I think the consensus is that with stock injectors, the stock exhaust is fine and my experience supports this.

As to the 7psi, you've got leaks that need to be addressed. You should see 16lbs bone stock. Check the boots for leakage and the Up Pipes in the back of the motor, these are the primary suspects. Some searching will yield plenty of info. I just changed the up pipes in my truck two days ago with the Dorman units and they fit great.

Welcome and have fun, there are plenty of very experienced folks on here.

 

Save the $400 for the bellowed up pipes, more than likely that is your boost loss like said above. JMHO cut the clunker stocker muffler out & put a straight thru design on it & be done with the exhaust...plenty of other places to spend $$$ & have something to show for it in the end lol

 

This is first car forum I've been to that might actually help me SAVE money, thanks guys.

So I'm clear, I'll be checking my up pipes for soot/carbon, and if there's a leak, I'll be going with the Doorman bellowed pipes ($188 on Amazon!!). I'll also plan on using plenty of penetrating oil leading up to the swap. Appreciate the insight on that, I had looked at other posts and it didn't seem to be a big issue. In retrospect, it makes sense as to why it takes so long to see any boost.

Straight pipe sounds good to me. I'm not great with physics but .5" diameter did not seem like as much of a restriction as the muffler. I'll go for fancy after function.

Are there any other upgrades/rebuilds I should consider while I'm working the up pipes? I'm not made of money but I'd like to do the job right so I only have to do it once. The truck has 186k on it; I had seen turbo rebuild kits for reasonable prices on fleabay which is why I ask.

 

well we could help you put that wallett on a diet if you would rather us do so... but we think being smart about your upgrades is the best way to get the most out of your ride

 

Check out some new boots from RiffRaff. I replaced all my boots and clamps on my 228,000 mile F-250 and it made a noticeable difference in boost.

 

Hi Mike! Welcome to FTE and Congratulations on your new Ex!

I picked up my first Excursion this year, in excellent condition. I started asking questions, poking around, and reading whatever I could get my hands on.

I've learned a LOT from the good folks here and from some buddies! It can be a bit overwhelming at first, but hang in there and don't be afraid to ask questions.

When you have some time and feel like reading through a small novel, check out my build thread in my signature. It shows what I've done to mine and how I came to those decisions. Many efforts included good advice, tips, and sometimes "cheering" from fellow members

I tried to list parts and suppliers when practical.

I, too, went through the exhaust choices and ended up with MBRP stainless turbo-back to suit MY purposes. You'll want to choose what meets your needs and desire

One of the threads that helped me when starting was Tugly's "Chip Chasers" thread. It is long, but well worth the read: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t=chip+chasers

He and others promote the advice, "Get your truck to 100% BEFORE tuning"

I've had a lot of help doing just that from many people and am almost ready

FTE can help you save money, but in the long run the most value comes from spending your money wisely- and educating you about your new Excursion and how to accomplish many things yourself.

I joke that FTE has cost me a lot of money, but I can't imagine how much money and frustration I would have spent without this site. I met some good local guys who have been good as gold when it comes to helping out, too.

Now....about those PICS of your new Excusion (you do know they are almost a "requirement" when joining, right? LOL)

Good luck and have fun!

 

Ahhh, the photos. I'm traveling right now so I'll say I think it's a fairly typical truck with rust in the same spots...and a few hail dings the dealer didn't mention when I bought it online. When I get back I'll definitely post some B&A pics, and so far I've managed to get the stuck rear lock fixed, Red Head gearbox installed, mirror switch and wiper motors replaced...and a handful of other things updated. She'll be a keeper with a little grooming!

Hopefully my final question with the turbo as this thread is leaning that way. Are the $200 rebuild kits with a new wheel worth the time? If I'm pulling the turbo off anyway, I don't mind spending another few hours going through it to make sure it'll last and be in good shape. If it's not worth a new wheel BUT is worth a rebuild, that will save money as well. Again...I'm a big fan of doing it right, not doing it again.

Edited: I just talked myself into rebuilding the turbo while it is out. The Wicked Wheel 2 reviews are impressive to say the least. Who are the preferred vendors on the forum that could help?

 

If you are going to rebuild the turbo and install a new wheel, I would suggest the following.

1. Turbo rebuild kit with 360 bearing - $65 - 7.3L TP38 / GTP38 Rebuild Kit with 360 Thrust Upgrade | BARDER TURBO SERVICE

2. Compressor wheel - $195 - Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel 94-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance

 

One of the best possible investments you can make for your vehicle is a scan tool/gauge. I have data from a lot of different devices and vehicles, plus I've experimented with a lot of different software and apps. I like AutoEnginuity for Windows 7 and older, but I don't like the Giotto version for Windows 8. There are dozens of apps for portable devices, but my favorite is Torque Pro.

As our trucks age, more and more obscure things will go wrong, and information will save you money. One thing that has popped high on the problem list is fuel pressure. This is not on the OBDII port, so a fuel pressure gauge is what I would consider a "must have", as well as an EGT gauge (I have two - one for each manifold).





Once the exhaust leaks are addressed, polling the engine data is akin to adding an auto-tracking system to your Buck$Zooka.



To answer the original question, the turbo-back 4" exhaust is useful when you are pushing to go significantly over 20 PSI boost. The stock 3 1/2" system reaches 20 with no delay - but it starts to strain beyond that point.

 

I just did the Dorman up-pipes, when I rebuilt my turbo. They work fine, just a word of warning though.... Make sure you very thoroughly clean both the pipes and the collector / "baby butt". Mine was absolutely filled with metal shavings and an oily fine grit. If you were to install them as is out of the box, you would probably destroy your turbo. They do seem to have resolved the infamous snapped bolt issue though, as mine were all the correct length and went in without a problem. I also painted mine with VHT flameproof ceramic paint (2,000deg), as well as the turbine housing and center section of the turbo.

As for the turbo rebuild, I used the kit from Sp Turbo Boost, on ebay. It has the upgraded 360deg thrust bearing, as well as an upgraded "Stepped gap" turbine end seal ring (Think gapless piston rings). I slathered some engine assembly lube on all the bearing surfaces during assembly. All the instructions say to use motor oil, but it might take a minute for the turbo to fill with oil on startup, so I felt more comfortable with the nice tacky assembly lube.
I also installed a wicked wheel 2 compressor wheel from DieselSite. I love it. It absolutely makes more power. Even with my truck still having other issues, the WW2 definitely makes more power on the bottom end. I'm able to stay in a higher gear in places where I've had to downshift before.

 

So hopefully all the parts will be in this week and I'll have an update after next weekend. It may be cheaper and easier to have a shop do the muffler delete which is the only thing I'm considering farming out. The downpipes are ordered (if they're not bad now, I may as well make sure they won't be bad in 10k miles), a new turbo wheel and rebuild kit is en route, a new wastegate controller, plenum supports, and boots will come from dieselsite annnnnd, I think that blows my budget for the next month or two. It should be close to bullet proof when I'm done and hopefully it'll be ready for to tow my other toy up north for some fall drives. Thanks again guys, great bunch of folks in here...

 

I agree with everyone saying the up pipes,new boots, and the muffler delete. You should be making some real boost after you install the new equipment, should put I smile on your face when you see the boost hit 10psi almost immediately.

This is a great forum, I feel it is the best on the internet! Everyone is friendly and they will actually advise against you spending money on unnecessary things without the proper diagnostics pointing to you actually needing the part.

Welcome to FTE and I wish you the best of luck!

 

I wrapped things up today after some drama, blood, and a lot of sweat. Sadly, the boost is not getting any higher than 5 psi now...so I'm not thrilled. Here's where I'm at:

Uppipes replaced. PITA, had to remove the clamp on the baby butt at least 3 times for various reasons, but done. Hopefully I never need to touch that again. Turbo is rebuilt with a 360 bearing and wicked wheel 2. The turbomaster wastegate controller is now on top. 6637 intake mod was done just a few days prior and I'll be doing the CCV mod this week. Dieselsite boots were put on the upper manifold and at the heads and plenum supports were installed. The EGT sensor was installed on the driver's side. Finally, a MBRP 4" stainless setup was installed after much cutting of the original system.

My 'gauges' are an Edge CTS system which can also read codes and I've got it set to tell me operating temp, EGT, and boost off the OBD port (except EGT of course).

I think my wife is happy to see me again.

First drive it feels a bit better but not amazing. Might be my expectations? But my monitor is showing 5 psi when I'm flooring it getting on the highway It felt better than before, but I don't think it is getting anywhere near as much power as it should be. The turbo sounds great by the way. Sooooo...what would you do first, second, and third?

 

Did you check the setting on the turbomaster? Maybe it got shipped with the wrong pre-set, and needs to be adjusted?
If not that then you've got a leak somewhere; either exhaust (pre-turbo) or a boost leak. If you are only getting 5LBS, then whatever it is should be pretty obvious.