Was this a flood vehicle????

 

Perhaps I've gone as far as I can go.

Is there a scanner system a professional repairer would use that can pinpoint the problem?

 

Your Actron has pinpointed the problem. The O2 sensors aren't switching, or if they are, their PID voltage isn't getting back to the computer. So if you've performed an end to end continuity test on each O2 sensors wire from the firewall computer electrical connector down to each O2 sensor electrical connector & all is well, that leaves the O2 sensors & computer end suspect & with the miles on this vehicle & you not responding to my question if they've ever been replaced, I'd again suggest the O2 sensors be put at the Top of your suspect list.
If this puppy has sipped some coolant, or sniffed any silicone spray, either one can disable the O2 sensors & render them useless. With use, they naturally get slow & lazy to respond over time, (sorta like me) & most folks replace them around 75-100K miles!!!!
You can disconnect the O2 sensors electrical connector, hook your multimeter directly across the O2 sensors output pins & idle the engine while monitoring the sensors output voltage. It should vary from 0-to 1 volt at about 1KHZ switching speed if they're healthy. If they're outputting a voltage in that range, then look for a wiring problem back to the computer firewall connector that you missed, or a computer problem, which is less likely as that part of the computer circuit isn't stressed much.
If you do decide to replace them, consider opting for Motorcraft, who's sensitivity, switching range & speed is specified & that the software is calibrated for, or a like design, good quality sensor like Bosch, Nippon ect. Don't consider opting for the inexpensive no name off brand sensors from who knows where, made to who knows what spec, or mfg standard. Let us know your trouble shoot goes.

 

Seeing as how your Actron can read PID's, post up what it's seeing from the MAF sensor also.

 

Since I bought the truck at 200k + miles in I do not know what has been replaced. I'll bet next to nothing has. Used and abused then sold over and over is what it appears.

Cleaned up three more grounds on the chassis this morning. Going to redo point to point continuity again on the O2's now. There are some 6 other grounds off this computer. Will check each one as well.

What do you know of Denso brand sensors from Pep Boys? Crap or good?

 

Good idea to service the ground connections imo, as corrupt grounds can be sources of woe.
If your not certain of the O2 sensor wire run continuity tests, I agree its a good idea to have another look at them as well.
I've never used a Denzo O2 sensor, so have no use expierence with them, but don't recall any negative reports around the net.
I replaced my 94 Taurus 3.8L OEM O2 sensors with the specified Bosch about 7-8 years ago & they're doing ok, no noticeable, or measurable difference in performance, or mpg noted.
If the O2 sensors are still Ford/Motorcraft, they have likely never been replaced & are over due.
Since you don't have, or know the vehicles maintenance history, consider getting All past & present due scheduled maintenance replacement filters, fluids, parts up to date & you'll likely notice a positive difference as you go.

 

Found no problems point to point with all three sensors.

Will attempt to replace sensors now.

Have the special 7/8" slotted socket but seems unlikely it will work on removing these old parts. Here's hoping all goes well.

 

All three out. Off to the auto store.

 

All 3 look to be the same mfgr.

 

Make sure you use a dab of high temp nickel anti-seize compound on the O2 sensor threads, torque it in to spec. Be careful that you don't get any anti-sieze on the sensor end, as it can contaminate the new sensor & render it useless.

 

After 30 miles no codes came back. Still no data on those two screens. No MPH is displaying on there either, which seems odd. Wonder if not having that affects those others. My speedo works fine. Must share the same speed transducer (?)

One change was that "open" denotation went to "closed" as fast idle went to slow. Stayed that way until engine off.

Also, the screen for state OBD test was clean. All tests say completed. Up until now always had that cat test incomplete.

You asked for MAF...

Key on, engine off = 0.00
Idle =.48
Cruising at 60 = around 3
Hard accelerator action = 6 - 7
Coasting/no pedal = .90

Is this working correctly do you think?

 

Ok good feedback. Not sure what units the MAF data you posted are, but it looks like the MAF sensor is working.
I was just looking at the Actron manual for your scantool & its kinda vague, sorta like my CP9150 was. Under the "On-Board Systems" menu, do they offer a "cylinder balance" test, or that test under any other menu options????
Are the upstream/before cat converter O2 sensors now showing switching voltage range???
Did you remember to disconnect the battery B- cable after installing the new O2 sensors, so that the corrupt KAM fuel trim tables were wiped & the computer could begin to build new tables with all of the new parts in place????
After wiping the KAM, if your having any auto tranny shifting, or idle problems, after the engine fully cools off, perform the cold & warm idle strategy relearn procedure here Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - high idle problem

 

The battery negative was disconnected all the time while working on the truck.

No cylinder balance test.

No data updating for any O2 sensors at all. Think this scanner is not fully compatible with Ford or I need to update firmware. Mine is from 2011. Can do it with their download program.

Manual tranny. Truck runs great. Always did, in fact. All this for passing the state test.

Perhaps that wifi scanner and freeware program are worth looking into. I also have a 1999 Ford E-350 passenger van. Will help me on some issues there.

Hoping to still be code-free after tomorrow and can get through emissions on Tuesday.

Wish me luck!

 

Passed.

Now on with my life!

Thanks for the help.

 

Ok good feedback & to hear your on the road again.
Not certain whats going on with your Actron not reading/displaying any PID's. It should be able to monitor your year/model. Just make sure you've manually entered the correct vehicle info into the initiation log, so it'll know how to communicate with the ECM. Also make sure the cigar lighter fuse isn't blown, as the scantool gets its power to operate through that fuse.