Thoughts? On my 52 ford f1 with the 239 flathead, I just ordered a new aluminum radiator and just curious, I don't have a fan shroud on mine, and am having a hard time locating one, what is the best for keeping it cool? Regular fan that is engine driven, or electric fan?

 

With an electric fan I wouldn't think you would need
a shroud as It sets so close to the core It's not needed.
But with a belt driven fan they tend to suck the air around
the core rather then through it. Like water the air will
be prone to take the path of least resistance.

 

Nothing wrong with a properly set up mechanical fan and shroud, if you cannot find a shroud they are really not hard to make if you can weld. I run either mechanical or electric depending on the engine design, neither works better than the other if properly sized and installed.

 

If you're looking to get a few more hp, and your electrical system can handle it, I recommend electric on a temp switch.

 

I'm running a 400 sbc which is notorious for overheating. After playing around with several different fans and shrouds, I finally found that a clutch fan with a shroud that covers the entire radiator and the fan would keep the engine at 180 degrees whether moving or sitting in traffic.

 

I agree with electric. There are numerous advantages; 1. as mentioned, no shroud needed, they have their own. 2. They work at the same rate, even is the vehicle is not moving.. 3. They pull, (or push), the air directly through the radiator. This makes them more efficient at their task. 4. As said, they allow for a hp increase as there is no drag reduction due to turning the fan. 5. They can be monitored/managed. They belt driven is on, period.
There is, at least for our trucks, one major disadvantage. They require a 12 volt system. Don't get too concerned about CFM ratings, unless you know how much your stock fan is rated at, the info for the electric is useless. Your low pressure radiator could probably get by with a 10 inch fan. I have already bought my electric fan, but I won't can't install it until I do the voltage conversion. I chose the 12 inch curved blade style, 30102029 is the jegs part number. SPAL High-Performance Electric Fans - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS


Most high performance guys will recommend the Spal fans over any other.

 

I hate to see "efficient" tossed around when discussing big electric users. The conversion from crankshaft power to electricity via the alternator is about 25% efficient. If you live where it's usually hot and are in slow traffic a lot, and the fan is running a lot, there's no payback. I'm guessing upstate NY is probably reasonably cool.

Does the Champion radiator come with a bung for a temp sensor?

 

Nothing against anyone with a electric fan I just don't care about hearing a electric motor whining on a classic vehicle. Just seems the Classic motors just have a unique sound.

 

Wow, lots of great feedback here. I greatly appreciate all the responses. After consideration, I'm going to just stick with the engine driven fan, mainly because I was just now able to locate a fan shroud, which should help tremendously. I don't believe the new radiator has a temp bung, but I will let you know when I receive it. I heard lots of great feedback on the champion radiators, both on this forum and others. I can't thank you all enough for the great feedback provided here.

 

if and when i ever get my 53 back together i'm going electric , having the temp sensor bung added to the radiator tank as i just don't care for the goofy look of the oe setup ( mine is a flathead also ) . i have had no issue even on the hottest days when mine was still being driven daily , with the mechanical fan keeping the temp under control . so really it's just a matter of preference .

 

They normally have a bung for the drain if you wanted to use it, but I put my temp sensor in the cylinder head.
Hottest normally here in the summer is mid 90s, today was probably 90 or better. I have an electric fan only in my 47 caddy and drive it everywhere in the summer, sitting in traffic is no problem, engine runs at 190 and never higher.
I run used OEM style fans, usually Haydens, big enough to cover the core.
This is the $10 swap meet fan I run in the 47 caddy with the champion radiator.



This is the $10 Hayden I run in the 37 Buick, runs normally around 180, fan kicks on at 190 when sitting in traffic. I like $10 fans one of the swap meets I go to had a guy selling them every year, huge pile of them.



I prefer big blade fans, they move a ton of air.

I will be running electrics in both of my trucks, the engines are designed to use them. Besides there is hardly enough room to set up a mechanical fan correctly with bigger engines since the tips of the blades should just enter the shroud by 1/2" or so.

 

I've had both on my truck. Either seem to work fine. I'm running mechanical right now as I prefer the look. The only issue I had with the electric was that it was set up on a toggle switch, and I didn't always remember to turn it on.

 

I was talking about the ability of the electric fan, being right against the rad, to more efficiently pull air through the cores.


I'm not sure I understand your comment. I would like to read more about it because I don't understand how "crankshaft" power can be measured in this instance. The stock fan, as you know, is not powered directly by the crank. That means there is a loss immediately. That has always been the argument in favor of electric. Eliminating the mechanical loss increases usable horsepower.
Your comment seems to argue that. Since I have electric fans, stock, on two of my vehicles and plan one for the F1, I'd be interested in this research.

 

I agree. I'm always in favor of a mechanical fan over electrical unless I have no choice. I think the look of a mechanical fan is more in keeping with the classic truck engine bay and the whining is annoying. I especially do not like electric fans wired so they continue to run after the engine shuts off. That's hard on the battery and serves no useful purpose...

 

Because there is no such thing as free lunch. When you run a big electric fan, you induce a big amperage draw. The fans draw upwards of 30A at times. This puts an inductive load on the alternator, which makes it harder to turn, which, when measured at the crankshaft, is often no different than the mechanical fan.

The mechanical fan is usually both leveraged (pulley ratio) and ratcheted via the clutch. A clutch fan will not be "always on" or "always losing HP".

Most of the "HP" comparisons are comparing aftermarket solutions to one another. In other words, a direct-drive flex-fan, or worse, a fixed-blade mechanical fan vs an electric fan. With a direct drive fan, that's "always on", there is often a (very slight) advantage to going electric. But compared to a stock clutch set-up - it is a much closer race.

At the end of the day, there is little difference, HP wise, between properly set up systems of equal capability.

If you choose to go electric, OEM fans are often a better choice than aftermarket. They often come with built in shrouds and are often two-speed - this allows you to kick in the 'high' speed mode when temps creep up or you turn on AC (if equipped). If you choose to go mechanical, it's usually best to use a factory-style clutch fan with a properly built shroud. Both solutions work well. Sometimes it's preference, sometimes it's packaging, sometimes it's what's available...

In my case, I was happy with my mechanical fan and it did its job well, but with the engine transplant, my engine sat too low compared to the radiator which caused insufficient clearance between my fan and lower radiator hose outlet. I ended up going to an OEM 2-spd electric with built in shroud and it works fine.