Oil pressure
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Junior User
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Oil pressure
Was driving my 66 F-100-240 engine tonight for about 20mins then started to heard the valves start pinning loudly. I have an oil pressure gauge hooked up to the engine but not sure how accurate it is cause is is about 30yrs old. The gauge showed 20..Then I started up a grade and the pinning got louder and I heard a jingle noise too and the oil gauge read 0. I was able to pull the truck to a safe spot and check under the hood and did not see anything unusual. So I let the engine cool down for about 10 mins and start on my way back home. The noise were still there but not as loud. I drove it for about 5 mile then pull into a parking lot and let the truck sit for about 30mins Then started my journey home the pinning got lower then after about 1-2 miles it when away. I drove about another 5-6 miles then the sounds all came back again. I was able to get the truck back home with the noises, the oil gauge said 0..I check the oil at each stop and it was full but very black..Any idea what is going on. What should I start checking
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
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Sometimes you need a wrecker or someone with a trailer at the first indication of trouble like this. What's done is done. I don't know the situation.....maybe that was not an option.
The oil pump drive can fail on a Ford. It's a hex shaped rod that connects the distributor to the oil pump. These twist and or sometimes slip. Sometimes the reason the drive fails is because the pump fails. Also there is a possibility of sludge blocking the screen and bypass.
Options.
Pull the distributor and inspect the drive. Pull the pan and inspect the carnage. Clean the screen an pick up and replace the pump. If you are very lucky she may do alright after cleaning the pan and replacing the pump and drive....if not a overhaul or rebuild is called for.
The oil pump drive can fail on a Ford. It's a hex shaped rod that connects the distributor to the oil pump. These twist and or sometimes slip. Sometimes the reason the drive fails is because the pump fails. Also there is a possibility of sludge blocking the screen and bypass.
Options.
Pull the distributor and inspect the drive. Pull the pan and inspect the carnage. Clean the screen an pick up and replace the pump. If you are very lucky she may do alright after cleaning the pan and replacing the pump and drive....if not a overhaul or rebuild is called for.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 82
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Sometimes you need a wrecker or someone with a trailer at the first indication of trouble like this. What's done is done. I don't know the situation.....maybe that was not an option.
The oil pump drive can fail on a Ford. It's a hex shaped rod that connects the distributor to the oil pump. These twist and or sometimes slip. Sometimes the reason the drive fails is because the pump fails. Also there is a possibility of sludge blocking the screen and bypass.
Options.
Pull the distributor and inspect the drive. Pull the pan and inspect the carnage. Clean the screen an pick up and replace the pump. If you are very lucky she may do alright after cleaning the pan and replacing the pump and drive....if not a overhaul or rebuild is called for.
The oil pump drive can fail on a Ford. It's a hex shaped rod that connects the distributor to the oil pump. These twist and or sometimes slip. Sometimes the reason the drive fails is because the pump fails. Also there is a possibility of sludge blocking the screen and bypass.
Options.
Pull the distributor and inspect the drive. Pull the pan and inspect the carnage. Clean the screen an pick up and replace the pump. If you are very lucky she may do alright after cleaning the pan and replacing the pump and drive....if not a overhaul or rebuild is called for.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Agree, although I would be incline to want to start the engine to determine if the problem was isolated to a particular cylinder; i.e., rocker arm, lifter, etc., but better judgment dictates best to pull dizzy as mentioned by F-ONE and if the problem is not evident then drain the oil into a container and inspect for metal deposits.
Not sure if same experience because I did not run the engine long enough to obtain a clear diagnosis?? On the way home the engine started developing a ping and shortly after I lost oil pressure, followed by loud clunking sound. Pulled over and allowed the engine to cool then attempted to drive home and within a short distance decided to pull over and have the truck towed rather than risk damaging the engine. Performed the procedure F-One mentioned but rather than pull the pan decided to check the oil and since I did not find anything obvious decided to refill with oil and start the engine. I used a piece of hose and listened to each cylinder and within 20 seconds I was able to isolate the problem to a particular cylinder, in this case it turned out a collapsed lifter.
Not sure if same experience because I did not run the engine long enough to obtain a clear diagnosis?? On the way home the engine started developing a ping and shortly after I lost oil pressure, followed by loud clunking sound. Pulled over and allowed the engine to cool then attempted to drive home and within a short distance decided to pull over and have the truck towed rather than risk damaging the engine. Performed the procedure F-One mentioned but rather than pull the pan decided to check the oil and since I did not find anything obvious decided to refill with oil and start the engine. I used a piece of hose and listened to each cylinder and within 20 seconds I was able to isolate the problem to a particular cylinder, in this case it turned out a collapsed lifter.
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Junior User
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Agree, although I would be incline to want to start the engine to determine if the problem was isolated to a particular cylinder; i.e., rocker arm, lifter, etc., but better judgment dictates best to pull dizzy as mentioned by F-ONE and if the problem is not evident then drain the oil into a container and inspect for metal deposits.
Not sure if same experience because I did not run the engine long enough to obtain a clear diagnosis?? On the way home the engine started developing a ping and shortly after I lost oil pressure, followed by loud clunking sound. Pulled over and allowed the engine to cool then attempted to drive home and within a short distance decided to pull over and have the truck towed rather than risk damaging the engine. Performed the procedure F-One mentioned but rather than pull the pan decided to check the oil and since I did not find anything obvious decided to refill with oil and start the engine. I used a piece of hose and listened to each cylinder and within 20 seconds I was able to isolate the problem to a particular cylinder, in this case it turned out a collapsed lifter.
Not sure if same experience because I did not run the engine long enough to obtain a clear diagnosis?? On the way home the engine started developing a ping and shortly after I lost oil pressure, followed by loud clunking sound. Pulled over and allowed the engine to cool then attempted to drive home and within a short distance decided to pull over and have the truck towed rather than risk damaging the engine. Performed the procedure F-One mentioned but rather than pull the pan decided to check the oil and since I did not find anything obvious decided to refill with oil and start the engine. I used a piece of hose and listened to each cylinder and within 20 seconds I was able to isolate the problem to a particular cylinder, in this case it turned out a collapsed lifter.
Let hope it's sludge and a bad pump..I have never taken the pan off..
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Pressure
Can someone tell my approx. How much Oil pressure I should have after a warm up. It was running like 20 before this all happen.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Looking thru Chilton's Manual: Ford Vans and Mercury vehicles, from 61-74 it appears oil pressure runs fairly consistent for the 240ci at between 35-55 @ 2000 rpm.
Suggest review anything you have done to the engine that may contributed to the problem. Perhaps little history on the engine; i.e., if it has been setting, or running on 'non-detergent' oil over a period of several years and then changed to a detergent oil, synthetic, or an oil additive cleaning agent which possibly dislodged carbon deposit, and/or sludge restricting oil passage and/or oil filter and pump screen??
If fairly new rebuild then I would not have a clue. Anyhow, food for thought?
Suggest review anything you have done to the engine that may contributed to the problem. Perhaps little history on the engine; i.e., if it has been setting, or running on 'non-detergent' oil over a period of several years and then changed to a detergent oil, synthetic, or an oil additive cleaning agent which possibly dislodged carbon deposit, and/or sludge restricting oil passage and/or oil filter and pump screen??
If fairly new rebuild then I would not have a clue. Anyhow, food for thought?
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2013
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Looking thru Chilton's Manual: Ford Vans and Mercury vehicles, from 61-74 it appears oil pressure runs fairly consistent for the 240ci at between 35-55 @ 2000 rpm.
Suggest review anything you have done to the engine that may contributed to the problem. Perhaps little history on the engine; i.e., if it has been setting, or running on 'non-detergent' oil over a period of several years and then changed to a detergent oil, synthetic, or an oil additive cleaning agent which possibly dislodged carbon deposit, and/or sludge restricting oil passage and/or oil filter and pump screen??
If fairly new rebuild then I would not have a clue. Anyhow, food for thought?
Suggest review anything you have done to the engine that may contributed to the problem. Perhaps little history on the engine; i.e., if it has been setting, or running on 'non-detergent' oil over a period of several years and then changed to a detergent oil, synthetic, or an oil additive cleaning agent which possibly dislodged carbon deposit, and/or sludge restricting oil passage and/or oil filter and pump screen??
If fairly new rebuild then I would not have a clue. Anyhow, food for thought?
Thanks Dave..Yea as I could remember it use to run about 40- 50..so I guess the oil pump is bad and it has sludge..the pan has not been dropped in over 30 yrs...I use the truck often during the Car/Truck season. But did notice the pressure has been running low. But was not sure it was because of the old gauge or not.I change the oil & filter regular.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Although may be labor intensive probly best to get it over with and pull the pan; perhaps, and then perhaps not, the problem will become perfectly clear? Perhaps another option, not familiar with the 240, if able to remove the drive shaft from the top, or get a relatively heavy duty drill on the existing shaft, turn the pump and in the correct direction then watch for a good flow of oil to the rocker arm assembly. Having said that, if pan has not been dropped in that may years then probly best to drop the pan, check for metal particles and clean the pick up tube and screen?? Anyhow, my $.02, which is about what my advice is worth.
Depending upon the route decide to travel suggest contact couple local auto supply shops and confirm items are in stock, or able to obtain in reasonable period of time. I take all items to be replaced for comparison purposes some sales persons do not have a clue when it comes to early model part catalogs.
Aftermarket oil pumps can run between $50-$150, however, if the pump appears to be working fine then either clean the pick up tube and screen or purchase just the pick up and screen assembly?? Inspect oil drive shaft closely, if appears any wear suggest take the shaft for comparison and purchase new for $8-$10?
Depending upon the route decide to travel suggest contact couple local auto supply shops and confirm items are in stock, or able to obtain in reasonable period of time. I take all items to be replaced for comparison purposes some sales persons do not have a clue when it comes to early model part catalogs.
Aftermarket oil pumps can run between $50-$150, however, if the pump appears to be working fine then either clean the pick up tube and screen or purchase just the pick up and screen assembly?? Inspect oil drive shaft closely, if appears any wear suggest take the shaft for comparison and purchase new for $8-$10?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 82
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Although may be labor intensive probly best to get it over with and pull the pan; perhaps, and then perhaps not, the problem will become perfectly clear? Perhaps another option, not familiar with the 240, if able to remove the drive shaft from the top, or get a relatively heavy duty drill on the existing shaft, turn the pump and in the correct direction then watch for a good flow of oil to the rocker arm assembly. Having said that, if pan has not been dropped in that may years then probly best to drop the pan, check for metal particles and clean the pick up tube and screen?? Anyhow, my $.02, which is about what my advice is worth.
Depending upon the route decide to travel suggest contact couple local auto supply shops and confirm items are in stock, or able to obtain in reasonable period of time. I take all items to be replaced for comparison purposes some sales persons do not have a clue when it comes to early model part catalogs.
Aftermarket oil pumps can run between $50-$150, however, if the pump appears to be working fine then either clean the pick up tube and screen or purchase just the pick up and screen assembly?? Inspect oil drive shaft closely, if appears any wear suggest take the shaft for comparison and purchase new for $8-$10?
Depending upon the route decide to travel suggest contact couple local auto supply shops and confirm items are in stock, or able to obtain in reasonable period of time. I take all items to be replaced for comparison purposes some sales persons do not have a clue when it comes to early model part catalogs.
Aftermarket oil pumps can run between $50-$150, however, if the pump appears to be working fine then either clean the pick up tube and screen or purchase just the pick up and screen assembly?? Inspect oil drive shaft closely, if appears any wear suggest take the shaft for comparison and purchase new for $8-$10?
Thanks Dave..just went out and started the truck up. I ran ok but the oil pressure was not there..
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Junior User
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Truck repaired
I got the truck repair today with a new Oil Pump..It seems to be running ok expect for a jingle noise..like when you use low Octane gas..It has about 40-45 on the pressure gauge after warm up..
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2014
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From: nw pa
a little late now, but if that truck ran with little or no oil pressure, the bearings are fried. when you had the pan off you should have slid another set in. another thing that happens is piston scuff, but it can run a long time with a scuffed piston. it'll be noisier when it's cold if it's a piston, noisier when warm if it's bearings.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 443
Likes: 3
a little late now, but if that truck ran with little or no oil pressure, the bearings are fried.
A high school tech teacher a few years ago was going to demonstrate an oil failure to the students. He drained the oil from a donated early 80s Cadillac. Put a block on the accelerator and ran it for three hours with no oil until the principal complained.
She did not give it up. Was the engine ruined....maybe so but it did not fail in that session.
So if luck is with the OP he may be fine.....if not simply "sliding" some bearings in is not really going to help without doing the "rest of the job".