A new HPOP should not cost anywhere near $2K.

 

Doubt the bolt came loose. We have seen several cases of the rebuilt HPOP's failing though.

Not so sure on the $2k remark. A quality rebuilt (and upgraded) HPOP from a reputable builder costs in the $500 range. If you have some sockets, understand the difference between left and right, don't mind spending $20 or so on o-rings and sleeves, and are able to follow directions, there's no reason you couldn't change the HPOP by yourself in just a couple of hours.

 

"The bolt under the pump" is not very specific. It could literally just be IPR nut was loose. That's a free or less than $1 fix to get a new nut on there. If the HPOP drivegear came loose, well, to me that says the HPOP replacement wasn't done correctly. But I would think that issue would have come up LOOONG before now. It also sounds like the IPR itself may need to be rebuilt (replacement is about $125 plus 1/2 hour of labor, so $50?). Rebuilding is very simple if you DIY, and costs about $10 for the proper viton seals/gasket kit. But don't throw money at something that hasn't been properly diagnosed.

I hate to say it, but I am less than confident in most mechanics' (including Stealership mechanics') ability to effectively diagnose these trucks. The members here are much better at it.

 

Hope she comes back with the fix. They weren't very clear on what bolt for sure.

 

I had a no start issue a while ago gave it a short shot of either and it started and died turned out to be the maxi fuse under the hood was blown change it and it ran great Also i know my avatar is distracting

 

The members here have skin in the the game, so the motivation for proper diagnosis is there. We also have "permission" to go off the page... like the Hutch mod or the Cody test. Another issue: We haven't grown reliant on modern electronics in diesels that instantly tell you how to fix them - we collectively spend a lot of time holding our wits to the honing stone.

 

Update #2
Had hpop replaced..ipr valve and oil change done. Ran perfect for about six hours. Now...the same thing. Crank..no start. I am already thousands deep into this. Any ideas????

 

There is a hard/no start troubleshooting guide in my signature. It helps to have the ability to see the engine sensors.

 

Around here there are only two diesel shops and only one has a good reputation. The last time I had it replaced it cost 1800...this time was 1300 plus 250 for the ipr plus the oil change. Got it back yesterday and it drove fine to the house. Stopped and had a few things tested and put in a new alternator cause it was not working and it was still under warranty. Got up this morning. It cranked no problem and ran great from about six hours. Now it is doing the same thing.

 

Where is "here"? (What state or general area does the truck live in?)

It might be helpful to see if a member is nearby with AutoEnginuity who may be able to pull some data from your truck and figure out what's going on.

Otherwise it could get (more) expensive, fast

If you're working on your own truck, at least for troubleshooting, there are many good folks here willing to work with you here online as well

 

Ask for your money back? Sounds like none of that stuff was your issue.

 

UPDATE!!
Was in the shop last week. Got it back Friday after having fuel pump replaced...cam shaft position sensor replaced...the hpop and the ipr valve replaced and an oil change done...ran great for six hours...now as no power...it will crank (have to lay a rag with gas over the breather...don't want to use ether anymore) and idle like nothing is wrong...but it in gear and go about 1/4 mile and it looses all power...put it in neutral to keep it from dying (had to get it back to the shop today)...so it's no longer a crank no start...it just won't hold fuel pressure...now they are saying injectors....

 

They are not troubleshooting. They are blind-firing their Buck$Zooka at the truck - with your ammo. Sticks will handily run in the thousands if a blind-fire shop does it. A scantool/gauge or an OBDII adapter with a portable device app is far cheaper, and you will finally have your answer.

What was the result of unplugging the ICP sensor and starting the truck?

 

So they put a fuel pressure gauge on it??? Or are they just guessing. Now they are saying injectors??? I would look real seriously at the tank pickup, I'll bet they didn't do it right and your screens are plugged.


I think you need to get away from those "mechanics"

 

It does sound like a fuel delivery issue. Sure, it *could* be the injectors, BUT...what are the odds of multiple failures ALL AT ONCE?

It seems more likely a controlling factor upstream from the injectors could be the cause.

1. Fuel tank pickup and tubing or contamination. Search "Hutch mod" and see it isn't just a "common" problem, it is a darn near "certainty" in our older trucks!

2. Fuel suction lines/connectors. Replace the little bit of rubber fuel line from the tank to the suction side of the fuel pump.

3. Fuel bowl issues. The orings deteriorate (ULSD fuel) on all components, the Park seals fail at this age, contamination gets in the bottom of the bowl below the heater, the check valve in the plastic stem (in the middle of your filter) can get stuck (I gutted the valve portion per good advice)

4. Fuel pump/pressure. Pumps are <$100 and readily accessible

On the injector side

1. UVCH

2. UVCH

3. UVCH Yes, this is the "Top Three Things" to check!

4. IDM, IPR, ICP (HPOP), Oil (fresh, full, proper spec)

5. Injector orings can help the power, but IMHO more likely if HPO is bleeding off. If it was your problem here, I'd expect unburnt fuel smell and burning from the exhaust

All this is BEFORE replacing the injectors. It could still be the injectors, but these things all MUST be working properly for any injectors to work properly- even new ($$) ones

Ask the shop what the fuel pressure is before starting, at idle, and at acceleration. If they don't know, run away, LOL. Why? You are having a fueling issue and fuel pressure is required information to properly diagnose the issue- especially before recommending very expensive parts replacements

Not checking fuel is at best not wise, at worst irresponsible and taking advantage of the customer.

I'd also suggest documenting everything. What you are told by the shop, what was replaced and WHY, and the results.

After all, if they are recommending you needlessly rebuild and replace the major components of your truck without proper diagnosis, you should at least use upgraded parts and reap the "benefits" of parts replaced but not solving your problem

Did you keep your old parts? I'd INSIST on it, as some are likely fine.

Just my $.02