Awesome thanks

 

Pop thru the carb usually tells me the mix is too lean, not too rich.

 

Well I can turn both screws all the way lean and it doesn't die

 

What kind of compression does this engine have any way ?
If you don't know it should have been the very first thing to do before any tuning be done.
If a cylinder is low is could be the root of your problem with a burnt valve seat
Once you know that all cyls are close and won't cause a problem them move on to spark plugs. If some plugs are getting carbon up=black dry fluffy carbon build up. Then check for bad plug wires. Also a weak coil all plugs are carbon fouled.

But if all spark plugs are white then something is causing a lean condition.
A vacuum leak is the main cause.
My last post here.
Orich

 

New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, compression is good

 

What is good as in number?

 

Here are my compression test results:
Cylinder # PSI
1 120
2. 115
3. 120
4. 100
5. 125
6. 115
7. 114
8. 100


And I spoke with my friend who races and has experience with multiple engine rebuilds and tells me that those numbers aren't bad at all.

 

To your first question the idle circuit is tuned just as lean as possible though no more, if that makes any sense. The manuals and carb sheets typically say after adjustment of mixture screws for highest/smoothest idle (or highest vacuum) to back the idle screws out maybe 1/8 turn "always favoring a slightly rich condition" or somesuch.

But understand the fuel/air mixture will correctly be about as lean as possible overall. Engine has to be fully warmed up. Set the idle mixture screws at the factory zero point, two and 1/2 turns out (or whatever it is for that particular carb), but also set idle RPM to factory spec before starting adjustment. As the mixture screws are turned in leaning out the mixture, the idle RPM needs to be adjusted back down to spec. Adjust both screws equally. Blip the throttle to clear carb and allow time for new settings to take hold.

Before diving in though, make sure major changes and maintenance is done - engine timing for example, fuel system is 100% e.g. fuel pump replacement, and float level is set correct. Carb tuning is affected by everything else, so the fine or final tuning is done last. Use stock Jets for stock carb, they should be plenty close enough. Backfire through carb points to a timing problem, or plug misfire.

The trick overall, make certain only the idle circuit is in play at idle and that means the throttle plates are closed. Common error. Here's a good link to webpage on carb setup prior to tuning that lists the most common mistakes:

http://www.junkyardgenius.com/holley/tune01.html

 

Cool, thanks. I appreciate it

 

If you can screw the idle mixture screws all the way in and it doesn't stall that tells me the carb needs to be re-built. You have to "fix what you know is broke" 1st. Then go from there. Rebuild it and change the fuel filter also. Buy a Genuine Ford kit part number D4AZ9A586A for your Autolite 2V carb. Still available from Ford. It will have Real gaskets in it not glorified cardboard.

 

I don't have the 360 manual but the compression specs for a 1967 352 are 160-200 psi. You can compare your numbers and make your own judgement about "aren't bad at all."

 

Agree with the above statement, BUT all cyl are within 20% of each other and given it's not a new engine, it would calculate that the pistons still aren't rattling around the cylinders like a B-B in a box car.
My .02

 

3X on the low compression PSI numbers. Especially #4 and #8. 360's were lower compression ratio engines than the 352's. But not that much lower. Still, I suggest OP rebuild the carb 1st. If the problem persists then do a "wet" compression test. See if and/or how much these PSI numbers raise up. See if these low numbers are in Orich's valves/seats or in the rings.