Front Brakes keep getting hot, Help
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
From: Coshocton Ohio
Front Brakes keep getting hot, Help
I've got a 79 F150. I don't drive the truck much but around a month ago one of my front calipers locked up. I replaced both front calipers and hoses/lines. The pads were like new.
The front brakes still get overly warm after driving the truck (15 minutes or so). The rim will get to where you can't hold your hand on it. I've checked the back brakes to make sure the fronts weren't doing all the work and they appear to operate properly.
Could my proportioning valve not be working or would something not be set or bleeded correctly? Seems like the pressure isn't being released back after applying the brake during normal driving...
any advise is appreciated, Thanks
The front brakes still get overly warm after driving the truck (15 minutes or so). The rim will get to where you can't hold your hand on it. I've checked the back brakes to make sure the fronts weren't doing all the work and they appear to operate properly.
Could my proportioning valve not be working or would something not be set or bleeded correctly? Seems like the pressure isn't being released back after applying the brake during normal driving...
any advise is appreciated, Thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
I had a bad booster that wouldn't release the brakes... I could barely drive it around the block before it was so tight that the gas pedal was almost to the floor.
Jack up a front wheel and spin it to check if the booster is not releasing the applied vacuum.
Jack up a front wheel and spin it to check if the booster is not releasing the applied vacuum.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Here's what I mean...
Jack up one front wheel off the ground.
Fire up the engine
Get out and see if the wheel can be spun freely.
Then get back in and apply the brakes, say, around 10 times.
Get out, spin the wheel again, and see if the brakes drag any....
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
From: Coshocton Ohio
ok so here's the update, I just jacked it up and the wheel spinned freely. Started it up, applied the brake a bunch, and it still spinned but did have to push a little bit more, nothing crazy. So I then took it for a 10 minute drive; got back jacked it up and it was hard to spin. a lot of pressure still on the brakes and the wheel is hot.
Soooo Brake booster? could it be anything else before i go buy one and tear into it?
Thanks for the help
Soooo Brake booster? could it be anything else before i go buy one and tear into it?
Thanks for the help
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
When you replaced the calipers, did you lube the slides on the calipers and the caliper anchor plates?
If not, don't use petroleum-based grease on the slides. It will eventually get onto the caliper piston boots and cause the boots to swell, letting dirt and contaminants into the piston bore of the calipers.
I use Versa Chem synthetic caliper grease. You can get it at O'Reilly's.
Here is a list of things you can check for why the brakes may be dragging.
How To: Diagnose and Fix Brake Drag | Master Power Brakes
If not, don't use petroleum-based grease on the slides. It will eventually get onto the caliper piston boots and cause the boots to swell, letting dirt and contaminants into the piston bore of the calipers.
I use Versa Chem synthetic caliper grease. You can get it at O'Reilly's.
Here is a list of things you can check for why the brakes may be dragging.
How To: Diagnose and Fix Brake Drag | Master Power Brakes
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
It's happening to both front wheels, correct? If so, then two sticky calipers or two bad brake hoses at the same time is less likely. Not impossible, but definitely less likely in my opinion.
I'd look at either the MC or the booster... on mine the booster was bad. It sure as heck added braking assistance wouldn't release the applied pressure until the truck sat for a few hours to allow the vacuum to eventually bleed off.
Try this... get your brakes to lock up again. Then check the ability of both front wheels to spin freeling. Hard to spin? Loosen the fitting for the front brakes at the master cylinder to allow the brake pressure to bleed off and re-check both front wheels.
Free spinning? Then i say it's the booster.
I'd look at either the MC or the booster... on mine the booster was bad. It sure as heck added braking assistance wouldn't release the applied pressure until the truck sat for a few hours to allow the vacuum to eventually bleed off.
Try this... get your brakes to lock up again. Then check the ability of both front wheels to spin freeling. Hard to spin? Loosen the fitting for the front brakes at the master cylinder to allow the brake pressure to bleed off and re-check both front wheels.
Free spinning? Then i say it's the booster.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
From: Coshocton Ohio
After driving it and locking it up I let it sit on the jack and came back around 3 hours later and you could spin it like before.
I'll probably just go ahead and replace the master cylinder and booster, all new brakes..
I'll probably just go ahead and replace the master cylinder and booster, all new brakes..
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,797
Likes: 2,599
From: The Shenandoah Valley
Did you replace that one too?
Try opening a bleeder and see if that frees up a brake. If it does, it's maybe a hose blockage.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 4
From: Cupertino
Jack a wheel, crawl, under, turn the wheel. If it is frozen, pop the bleeder and try again. If stuff squirts out of the bleeder and the wheel turns you have residual pressure in the system.
Have you replaced the master cylinder? You may have a rod too long. Or, chug through the above.
Have you replaced the master cylinder? You may have a rod too long. Or, chug through the above.