Hot Air Choke Fitting
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Freshman User
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Hot Air Choke Fitting
Trying to help our local community center with a 1972 f-100 truck they have. The problem turns out to be the hot air choke that it is equipped with. The brass fitting that screws into the choke housing is missing, any know what threads those are in the housing for the hot air tube. The carb is a motorcraft 2100 I believe.
Thanks
Thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Dunno. You could drive it to HD or a hardware store and do some on-site test fits.
Alternatively, : Choke Heat Tube repair - "How To". - The FORDification.com Forums
Alternatively, : Choke Heat Tube repair - "How To". - The FORDification.com Forums
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 5
From: Garner NC
Convert it to manual with the Mr Gasket kit. Cheap and simple.
For clarity, hot air choke systems are great when everything is right in the system. Usually what happens is the screen material in the exhaust manifold (or spacer depending on engine) rusts away and gets pulled into the little piston in the auto choke assembly. The debris causes the piston to stick or seize and then the thermostatic spring is unable to perform its function correctly. There are aftermarket hot air choke kits which are some metal tubing and some hose pieces. Clean air is pulled from the air horn port to the exhaust manifold to be heated and returned to the auto choke assembly. That assembly must be clean to operate correctly. To setup the piston correctly you need to make a little tool with a paperclip. Factory Shop Manual explains this procedure. If you go with the auto, do clean out the exhaust manifold port with some shop air, and look away when you do it. A large blast of rust will come out. That being said, I like my factory manual choke because it is as simple as it gets.
For clarity, hot air choke systems are great when everything is right in the system. Usually what happens is the screen material in the exhaust manifold (or spacer depending on engine) rusts away and gets pulled into the little piston in the auto choke assembly. The debris causes the piston to stick or seize and then the thermostatic spring is unable to perform its function correctly. There are aftermarket hot air choke kits which are some metal tubing and some hose pieces. Clean air is pulled from the air horn port to the exhaust manifold to be heated and returned to the auto choke assembly. That assembly must be clean to operate correctly. To setup the piston correctly you need to make a little tool with a paperclip. Factory Shop Manual explains this procedure. If you go with the auto, do clean out the exhaust manifold port with some shop air, and look away when you do it. A large blast of rust will come out. That being said, I like my factory manual choke because it is as simple as it gets.
Last edited by Rasputin53; Jun 28, 2015 at 08:08 AM. Reason: Added auto choke explanation
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Trying to help our local community center with a 1972 f-100 truck they have. The problem turns out to be the hot air choke that it is equipped with. The brass fitting that screws into the choke housing is missing, any know what threads those are in the housing for the hot air tube. The carb is a motorcraft 2100 I believe.
Thanks
Thanks
Orich
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The threaded housing on the choke is what I needed to know as what threads it was. After researching it appears some came with od threads and some with id threads and the brass fitting was missing on this truck so I couldn't hook up the line. Turns out mine is the id threaded housing and is a 3/8-24 thread in case anyone else needs that info one day. Anyhow got it up and running so all is good. Thanks for the replies.
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