Brake issue?
More Turbo
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 604
Likes: 2
From: Inman KS
Nice looking truck! Something about the OBS in the four-door, long-bed, 4x4 configuration.....
EGT might be a bit high, depending on hill and headwind etc...tho that is pretty much a brick of a trailer to drag through the air...
EGT might be a bit high, depending on hill and headwind etc...tho that is pretty much a brick of a trailer to drag through the air...
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: N. Arizona
I expected it to get pretty high. I cant remember if i explained it or not but the hill is about a mile and very very steep, combine that with the fact that there is a roundabout right at the bottom so you start the incline at about 15 mph and accelerate up to 50 while climbing. Plus the trailer is the worlds largest air plow. Im contmeplating adding a V nose on it to help it pull better. Have to see if i have enough wood leftover.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
That's one sweeeet two-tone. Those blue/white and red/white combos just shout out "classic". Badges??!? We don't need no steeenking BADjezzzzz! (Personally I'm not into the no-badge look, but that's just personal taste...)
While you have the belt off, check all the other pulleys to make sure it isn't one of the other components causing the belt to fail. Idlers and tensioner pulley should spin real freely. A/C and alt should spin pretty freely, maybe just a hint of drag. You'll feel some resistance from the p/s, since you're turning the pump, but it shouldn't be rough, or excessive. Vacuum pump will alternate between high and low resistance as the turning shaft activates the diaphragm. As long as it's "regular", and again not rough or excessive, you're good. Also make sure none of them are loose or wobbly. And of course look for foreign matter on the pulleys. Esp. if there's been wear on the belt, some of that rubber may be deposited, esp. on the grooved pulleys.
While you have the belt off, check all the other pulleys to make sure it isn't one of the other components causing the belt to fail. Idlers and tensioner pulley should spin real freely. A/C and alt should spin pretty freely, maybe just a hint of drag. You'll feel some resistance from the p/s, since you're turning the pump, but it shouldn't be rough, or excessive. Vacuum pump will alternate between high and low resistance as the turning shaft activates the diaphragm. As long as it's "regular", and again not rough or excessive, you're good. Also make sure none of them are loose or wobbly. And of course look for foreign matter on the pulleys. Esp. if there's been wear on the belt, some of that rubber may be deposited, esp. on the grooved pulleys.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 604
Likes: 2
From: Inman KS
I expected it to get pretty high. I cant remember if i explained it or not but the hill is about a mile and very very steep, combine that with the fact that there is a roundabout right at the bottom so you start the incline at about 15 mph and accelerate up to 50 while climbing. Plus the trailer is the worlds largest air plow. Im contmeplating adding a V nose on it to help it pull better. Have to see if i have enough wood leftover.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: N. Arizona
Madpogue
I'll be sure to look at those thanks. Also im not really into it either the PO for some reason took one side off and left the other on. So im gonna find one for the drivers side and put em back on.
sherwin,
I did install a boost guage and the numbers where right where I believe they should be. Towing that trailer boost was sitting around 4 lbs at 60 mph flat areas, and it maxes out right at 8 lbs consistantly.
I really like the paintjob myself and i've caught a couple jealous stares around gas stations and parking lots lol. Just gotta paint up the rear bumper its a bit rusty. PO made a custom behemoth but didn't coat it with anything.
I'll be sure to look at those thanks. Also im not really into it either the PO for some reason took one side off and left the other on. So im gonna find one for the drivers side and put em back on.
sherwin,
I did install a boost guage and the numbers where right where I believe they should be. Towing that trailer boost was sitting around 4 lbs at 60 mph flat areas, and it maxes out right at 8 lbs consistantly.
I really like the paintjob myself and i've caught a couple jealous stares around gas stations and parking lots lol. Just gotta paint up the rear bumper its a bit rusty. PO made a custom behemoth but didn't coat it with anything.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
Yeah, that hitch is a perfect tailgater-radiator-puncher. Our '85 IDI batmobile has an old DMI sway hitch bumper with a slide-out drawbar that desperately needs a paint job. I'm thinking of black and yellow diagonal stripes, maybe even some reflective glass bead in the yellow parts.
Hmm, new belt/tensioner might actually help with temps, too, if it helps your water pump and fan turn better. Just something else to watch for.
Edit - D'OH, I almost forgot - mandatory note any time a tensioner replacement is on the menu - look into the SD dual-pulley tensioner mod. Minor mod to the bracket, SD tensioner replaces the existing one AND the fixed groove-pulley idler next to it. Pivot point is between the two pulleys, so it's a more "balanced" tension. Minor difference in the belt length to IIRC. Oh now where's that TSB?... Ah here it is... http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/982314.pdf
Hmm, new belt/tensioner might actually help with temps, too, if it helps your water pump and fan turn better. Just something else to watch for.
Edit - D'OH, I almost forgot - mandatory note any time a tensioner replacement is on the menu - look into the SD dual-pulley tensioner mod. Minor mod to the bracket, SD tensioner replaces the existing one AND the fixed groove-pulley idler next to it. Pivot point is between the two pulleys, so it's a more "balanced" tension. Minor difference in the belt length to IIRC. Oh now where's that TSB?... Ah here it is... http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/982314.pdf
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: N. Arizona
Yeah, that hitch is a perfect tailgater-radiator-puncher. Our '85 IDI batmobile has an old DMI sway hitch bumper with a slide-out drawbar that desperately needs a paint job. I'm thinking of black and yellow diagonal stripes, maybe even some reflective glass bead in the yellow parts.
Hmm, new belt/tensioner might actually help with temps, too, if it helps your water pump and fan turn better. Just something else to watch for.
Hmm, new belt/tensioner might actually help with temps, too, if it helps your water pump and fan turn better. Just something else to watch for.
That's a good point if the belts slipping then logically they aren't working to their full potential. Hopefully I'll be able to get one in in the next week or so.
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New User
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Hi everyone, new here so i'll give a short intro and I could use some assistance in diagnosing an issue. First off I just bought my first 7.3 idi the last week of may. I've always loved the OBS fords and I had the opportunity and the need to move up from my 2005 Nissan Titan so I did.
Truck stats
1994 F-350 CCLB 7.3 IDI turbo with 214k (had 213k when i bought it)
4X4 Automatic trans.
So far I have put 1000 miles on it and the truck has been fantastic for the most part. Runs great, starts up quick and doesn't blow any smoke other than a little white for about 30 seconds on a cold start.
As I mentioned I came from a Titan and upgraded because my family was outgrowing the small cab and my trailer was outgrowing the tow rating. I did about a months worth of research and looking for a powerstroke. Unfortunately the only ones in my area were in pretty rough shape and commanded a premium price. Finally I stumbled across this 94 idi and it was a perfect fit.
Now for my issue. I'm trying to pin down the problem and I am hoping you guys can help me out.
Symptoms
-The truck brakes very well but normally the pedal goes about 3/4 of its travel and only feels like the rear drums are braking. Then when it hits 3/4 you can feel the front brakes kick in hard.
-truck stops nice and straight even if you stomp on the brake, doesn't dart to either side.
-2 days ago I was test towing a trailer. Weighed about (3500-4000lbs). I used a hill in my area with a very steep grade about 1 mile long and has a round about at the bottom so you start the climb at about 20 mph. I took o/d off and went full throttle up the hill. It climbed easily to 45 mph and held there all the way up. Now the problem I had was about halfway up was this high pitched squealing noise just like a loose belt on car when you cold start one. It sounded like it was distinctly coming from the drivers side of the engine.
-When i got to the top of the hill and hit the red light the brake pedal was extremely stiff (still braked ok but not as well) there was also a burning rubber smell.
-Then when i let off the pedal the brakes were still clamped onto the rotors and had to give it some gas to get the truck moving again.
Note: The next day i did this test again without a trailer and got the same result although to a lesser extent.
Additional note, my brake light and abs lights come on intermittenly, always off when I first start the truck but will come on at some point while driving. usually after I hit the brakes pretty hard.
The squealing noise:
I hear it generally when the truck is under high load, towing uphill, accelerating hard, but always goes away if I let off the gas a little.
Sorry for the ridiculously long post just trying to give as much info as possible. Also I replaced the front pads a week after i bought it with motorcraft pads, and inspected the rear which looked good. They were done last year by PO with receipts.
I appreciate any help in advance, thanks guys.
Truck stats
1994 F-350 CCLB 7.3 IDI turbo with 214k (had 213k when i bought it)
4X4 Automatic trans.
So far I have put 1000 miles on it and the truck has been fantastic for the most part. Runs great, starts up quick and doesn't blow any smoke other than a little white for about 30 seconds on a cold start.
As I mentioned I came from a Titan and upgraded because my family was outgrowing the small cab and my trailer was outgrowing the tow rating. I did about a months worth of research and looking for a powerstroke. Unfortunately the only ones in my area were in pretty rough shape and commanded a premium price. Finally I stumbled across this 94 idi and it was a perfect fit.
Now for my issue. I'm trying to pin down the problem and I am hoping you guys can help me out.
Symptoms
-The truck brakes very well but normally the pedal goes about 3/4 of its travel and only feels like the rear drums are braking. Then when it hits 3/4 you can feel the front brakes kick in hard.
-truck stops nice and straight even if you stomp on the brake, doesn't dart to either side.
-2 days ago I was test towing a trailer. Weighed about (3500-4000lbs). I used a hill in my area with a very steep grade about 1 mile long and has a round about at the bottom so you start the climb at about 20 mph. I took o/d off and went full throttle up the hill. It climbed easily to 45 mph and held there all the way up. Now the problem I had was about halfway up was this high pitched squealing noise just like a loose belt on car when you cold start one. It sounded like it was distinctly coming from the drivers side of the engine.
-When i got to the top of the hill and hit the red light the brake pedal was extremely stiff (still braked ok but not as well) there was also a burning rubber smell.
-Then when i let off the pedal the brakes were still clamped onto the rotors and had to give it some gas to get the truck moving again.
Note: The next day i did this test again without a trailer and got the same result although to a lesser extent.
Additional note, my brake light and abs lights come on intermittenly, always off when I first start the truck but will come on at some point while driving. usually after I hit the brakes pretty hard.
The squealing noise:
I hear it generally when the truck is under high load, towing uphill, accelerating hard, but always goes away if I let off the gas a little.
Sorry for the ridiculously long post just trying to give as much info as possible. Also I replaced the front pads a week after i bought it with motorcraft pads, and inspected the rear which looked good. They were done last year by PO with receipts.
I appreciate any help in advance, thanks guys.
The amount of pedal travel might not have been set properly to engage the plunger in the booster resulting in to much pedal travel before it engages the brakes
A other possible problem would be air in the lines
Or maybe you need new pads on the front
My trucks squeling noise endef up being clogged cats
At idle no noise under load or giving it gas the noise is present started off just once in a while then got to the point that it was all the time
I cut the pipe half way through in front of the drivers side cat to give the air a way out
started the truck and the noise is gone
These may not be your issues
But it give you something to look at
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